Has anyone come up with conclusive evidence of pedal sensor failure? I'm not sure how to actually test it with conventional test equipment (multi-meter, oscilloscope, etc.) I understood those sensors were more like hall effect with no direct contact (wiper.) My car is not running right, and not throwing codes either...
New - fuel filter, fuel pump, Front / Rear OE O2's, spark-plugs, upper engine main harness... on and on. Smoke test=good, Exhaust leak=none.
Symptoms:
Sporadic fuel trims (14-16% LTFT) with STFT swinging wide - and + usually up to 25%.
Knock at steady load (65 mph, level road) with "light" throttle application (fine learning -1.4 to -2.4.)
AF Learning D / 4 = -11 to -14% (applied to open loop operation.)
Downshift 5EAT (2nd), turn right, ~90% throttle the car would almost nose dive and sounds like the engine is gurgling, knock, then finally it'll accelerate.
Voltage swings on one way commute typically 12.8-14.0v, with an average of 13.6-9v. Cold in the morning, volts really just fluctuate 1-2 tenths of a volt (14.3, 14.2, 14.0v), afternoon when hot those same fluctuations swing 3-6 tenths of a volt (14.4, 14.0, 13.8, 13.2, 13.5, 14.1v.)
Mechanical fuel pressure gauge exhibits very rapid flutter under certain circumstances. 1) Under light load, like drive, throttle at most +3% (right off idle), the needle "flutters" over an 8psi span. 2) Under high load, like passing at 80, throttle at ~80%, same flutter just higher pressure.
Key-On,engine off - throttle plate unable to follow accelerator (at 1/3 throttle the plate seems to jump to 1/2,) also it sounded very loud and I clearly heard what sounded like the plate binding just when it would "jump."
I Suspect:
1) The accelerator sensor could be feeding bad signals to the ECM sporadically.
2) The throttle body assembly could be damaged or failing.
2) The alternator might be losing a diode or the rectifier, leaking A/C voltage into the system causing the issue.
Pedal would be the simplest so I hope y'all had good luck.
Thanks