dahoseman Posted May 15, 2013 Author Share Posted May 15, 2013 After several calls/emails, I finally got in touch with CM. They are sending me a new clutch. I'm not terribly happy about paying to install a clutch twice since January, but I'll take what I can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 Well that's what most warranty's do, they replace the parts not the labor. Glad to hear they covered the parts any way's without giving you crap. Make sure the starter shaft gets greased while its out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted May 17, 2013 Share Posted May 17, 2013 I don't know, I think it depends on the product. Most warranties I know of will either have a tech replace the part for you under warranty, or cover labor to have someone else remove the bad part and install the new one, or at least cover labor to put in the new part. Since we're talking about a defective part, the consumer shouldn't have to foot the bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S0CalGT Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 This is interesting. I'm having the same problem, and strangely, after I put a new set of wheels on. The car was just fine in my garage before the wheels swap and as I went for a quick drive around the block, I had issues putting the car in reverse while it was on; I had to shut off the car to get it in gear. I'll be checking the fork first and progress to what was discussed on this thread. I just find it strange how this could all happen in a matter of hours (from the last time I drove the car to when I swapped wheels and took it for a drive...and I don't drive hard). EDIT: Or... it could be this. I've had an ACT clutch for over 3 years and 60k miles now http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/act-lgt-hd-street-clutch-failure-206067.html I guess only one way to find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahoseman Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 Wow, that's quite a mishap with that ACT clutch. Clutch Masters ended up sending me a FX350 as replacement. I think they're phasing out the FX300. I suppose I'll be pretty happy with getting a replacement, although I did have to pay for service (clutch and transmission removal) that I otherwise wouldn't have had to do. As far as the new clutch goes, it feels pretty good. The pedal feel is even lighter than the FX300. I'm surprised. At the moment, it's pretty damn grabby and chatters. I'm thinking it will mellow out after break-in miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 You do know the fix I used to use when my Spec 2+ would chatter, don't you ? Tranny in neutral, push in clutch and remove your foot from the pedal as fast as you can, let the pedal slamp to the top. Chatter should be gone for a while. I found the Spec 2+ would chatter if it wasn't driven hard enough. I needed to run the car thru the gears every now and then. High rpm shifts, under good power load. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahoseman Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 You do know the fix I used to use when my Spec 2+ would chatter, don't you ? Tranny in neutral, push in clutch and remove your foot from the pedal as fast as you can, let the pedal slamp to the top. Chatter should be gone for a while. I found the Spec 2+ would chatter if it wasn't driven hard enough. I needed to run the car thru the gears every now and then. High rpm shifts, under good power load. Well, perhaps someday. Like I said, it's a brand new clutch still in the break in period. I was instructed by CM's warranty dept to break in the clutch over at least 500 miles without going through steep mountains, stressing the clutch, using full throttle, or clutch/engine breaking. I may try that process at some point. I'm following the break-in instructions for now. With 250 break-in miles, it is still very touchy with engagement and chatters pretty easily. I'm still hoping that it mellows out after break-in. I never had anything even remotely similar with the FX300. The difference between the feel of the FX300 and FX350 is striking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 Have you taken the car for a good long drive on the highway ? I'd be putting miles on that thing. Has it been damp in your area, lots of rain lately ? I found that's when the clutches tend to chatter. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooby2.5 Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 Here is mine with about 40K highway miles, with spirited driving once in a while. No racing at all. Actually looked pretty good I thought when it came out. Was still working fine. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-mo-fx300-and-oem-flywheel-sti-6-speed-207009.html?p=4418238 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahoseman Posted June 5, 2013 Author Share Posted June 5, 2013 Well, I have been doing a lot of errands, trips and general driving. With 2000 miles on the FX3500, it's still really touchy and chatters easily. I'm sort of afraid to let anyone drive my car (which has to happen from time to time). The chatter is fairly violent and shakes the damn car, so I'm getting tired of it. I will give the neutral-pedal-slap trick a shot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 5, 2013 Share Posted June 5, 2013 Let us know if that works. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahoseman Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 i tried the neutral clutch drop. So far, no change. If I don't feather the clutch quite right on takeoff, it still shakes like hell. It seems to be smooth if I rev the RPM and feather the clutch with a distinct drop at the power-band, but that can't be good in the long term. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dahoseman Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 I had an interesting development today that I can only attribute to the violent chatter/shaking of the clutch. I had a weird noise and loss of power steering right as I was pulling into the driveway (thankfully). After inspecting why a belt would mysteriously pop off, I noticed that the crank pulley was wobbly and the bolt holding it in had wandered out a bit. I unscrewed it, by hand, the rest of the way and popped the pulley off to inspect it. The pin is good, thankfully, but the crank pulley got a little worn. I ordered a new OEM version and should install that tomorrow along with some lock tight. I have no idea what would cause a bolt attached to the crank to wander out other than the chatter and rattling caused by the new clutch. Odd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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