SlickSpur Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 I do get some vibration in the steering wheel when hard braking. I'm on the original pads and rotors. Replacing pads now (50k), should I swap the rotors as well, or just turn them (or just put new pads on). Ideally, I'd just swap the pads. I've read some on here saying you could just use sand paper, and some said just some hard braking on the new pads will get any old pad residue off. Since I've never done a brake job, I'd love to only have to replace the pads, but I don't know if the vibration indicates I need to swap the rotors (or the mileage for that matter). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickB34 Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 I'm not an expert, so somebody else can chime in and correct me if I'm wrong. I've read that it is best to at least turn the rotors when you put new pads on, especially if you are using a different pad than the original. And for the relatively low cost, it would seem like an obvious thing to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
havanahjoe Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 50k sounds like low mileage to need new rotors. I'm still on my stock rotors at 78k. I get some vibration from time to time, but it goes away. The last time it was bad I just had the pads replaced and the rotors cleaned, we didn't have to turn them. We did go through the process of bedding them in, but that was about it. If you're getting the pads replaced, have the shop check the rotors and they should be able to tell you if replacement is needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickSpur Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 50k sounds like low mileage to need new rotors. I'm still on my stock rotors at 78k. I get some vibration from time to time, but it goes away. The last time it was bad I just had the pads replaced and the rotors cleaned, we didn't have to turn them. We did go through the process of bedding them in, but that was about it. If you're getting the pads replaced, have the shop check the rotors and they should be able to tell you if replacement is needed. I'm going to be doing it myself. I'm confident changing the pads will be no problem, but I'm worried I'm going to screw something up taking the rotors out, putting them back in, etc. I'd like to be able to just take the old pads out, and clean the rotors up with some sand paper or something, then put new pads in. I'm not sure if this would be the "right thing to do", though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Seriously? Once you have the pads off the rotors are the easy part. Take them to a shop and have them checked, they will tell you if you can turn them. If you don't start with smooth rotors then your new pads will have to wear to any imperfections. If you plan on keeping the car "forever", you can always do what I did, buy new rotors so you can change the brakes all at once without running to a shop. When you're done, have the old rotors turned and coated - ready to go for your next change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickSpur Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 Seriously? Once you have the pads off the rotors are the easy part. Take them to a shop and have them checked, they will tell you if you can turn them. If you don't start with smooth rotors then your new pads will have to wear to any imperfections. If you plan on keeping the car "forever", you can always do what I did, buy new rotors so you can change the brakes all at once without running to a shop. When you're done, have the old rotors turned and coated - ready to go for your next change. I'm not speaking from experience as I've never done this, but there must be a way I can screw this up by not putting the rotors back on correctly. Don't they have to go in a certain orientation? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 You first need to find some 'vacation pix' on this forum since it seems you've never done much maintenance before. By the time you dismantle things enough to get the pads off, there will generally only be 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket on. Once that is off the whole disc slides right off. Now the rears are a little different due to the parking brake, but not bad either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlickSpur Posted March 21, 2013 Author Share Posted March 21, 2013 You first need to find some 'vacation pix' on this forum since it seems you've never done much maintenance before. By the time you dismantle things enough to get the pads off, there will generally only be 2 more bolts holding the caliper bracket on. Once that is off the whole disc slides right off. Now the rears are a little different due to the parking brake, but not bad either. Thanks for the tip, I'll check out the 'vacation pix'. I've actually swapped the springs, so it's not the first time I've done work in this area, but being my first brake job, I'm nervous of things not going back together the same way they came apart. Since it's brakes, I'm just being extra precautions as they're obviously a safety feature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
orndog Posted March 21, 2013 Share Posted March 21, 2013 Disc brakes are really straight forward and easy as long as you do things right. Lube where you should, clean where you should, torque properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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