f10ants Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 Hey Guys, I need a little direction here- I have 125k on my '06. Stock suspension. Tie Rods & Ball Joints & Link Kits are original still. What kind of mileage / age do you see from these normally? I can't find a recommendation from Subaru to replace them at a certain interval. I should feel a difference in the handling after swapping them out right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 They will last forever The end links will need replacing when you hear a clunking sound going over cracks in the driveway or parking lots. The ball joints and tie rod ends will last longer then the car unless you hit a ton of pot holes. If you need to replace the ball joints, I highly recomend you buy the spindles too, $120. it saves a ton of labor expense trying to remove the punch bolt. I only had one ball joint replaced because I screwed it up. Odds are you'll replace the steering rack or PS pump first. My wagon has a new steering rack because of a leak. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f10ants Posted March 13, 2013 Author Share Posted March 13, 2013 I know that clunk, and assumed it was the end links because of some other research I've done. The roads in Michigan are a joke so pot holes are almost a daily thing, even avoiding what I can. I think for now I'll stick w the end links and worry about the rest if/when it comes time then. Save my pennies for now. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctlex Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 They will last forever The end links will need replacing when you hear a clunking sound going over cracks in the driveway or parking lots. The ball joints and tie rod ends will last longer then the car unless you hit a ton of pot holes. If you need to replace the ball joints, I highly recomend you buy the spindles too, $120. it saves a ton of labor expense trying to remove the punch bolt. I only had one ball joint replaced because I screwed it up. Odds are you'll replace the steering rack or PS pump first. My wagon has a new steering rack because of a leak. the bolt clamping the ball joint into the knuckle comes right out as you use heat. it took me about 30 minutes total to do a ball joint in my 06 i also have access to a torch and air chisel which helps alot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 the bolt clamping the ball joint into the knuckle comes right out as you use heat. it took me about 30 minutes total to do a ball joint in my 06 i also have access to a torch and air chisel which helps alot. I see your new here. Yours was not the normal R&R. You got lucky. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctlex Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 perhaps. ive been a suspension/ front end tech for 2 years. i acctually like the subaru style ball joints but i can see where theyd be a hassle without air tools. im used to much harder ball joints on trucks and vans ive done a fair amount of subaru ones. the bolt would have snapped on mine if i didnt have heat but with heat and an impact gun came right out. opening the area that the bolt clamps closed by hammering a chisel in there to make the opening wider, i then used my air hammer with a flat, chisel type bit right where the ball joint meets the bottom of the knuckle and hammered it down and out. maybe it was luck but mine came out pretty easy and so have the wrx/sti ones ive done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maclif Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 I am pushing 242k on my 06. Tie-rods and ball joints are doing well. I've replaced the endlinks once and I really need to do them again. If you're doing those, check on the condition of your swaybar bushing. I'm going to swap those out when I do the endlinks again. -Clif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctlex Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 also just to note my ball joint was not worn out and had no play, i replaced it becuse i messed up the threads seperating the lca from the nuckle so many times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 13, 2013 Share Posted March 13, 2013 also just to note my ball joint was not worn out and had no play, i replaced it becuse i messed up the threads seperating the lca from the nuckle so many times. There are threads about how much of a nightmare these things can be. I have my own story with my trusted mechanic, you I've know for almost 30 years. He did mine and had a nightmare in his shop. Mine was not the first one he's had a hard time with. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated Too sigmafour Posted March 13, 2013 I Donated Too Share Posted March 13, 2013 at 110K my ball joints were shot. NE highways aren't smooth but I don't make a habit of pot hole driving - they were very very loose - changing them for $40 a side with Moog parts was an inexpensive improvement and very quick and easy but then we did have the fancy tool which makes it a breeze. http://www.partsandpeople.com/node/4949 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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