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Turbo going out... Port and rebuild or replace?


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Any upgraded turbo is not going to do a stock clutch any favors. Is your clutch in good shape now and your planning ahead, or is it showing signs of needing replacement already? When I went Stage 2, I knew immediately I had to figure out a clutch replacement. I'm not hard on it at all (no launches, typically rev match down shifting etc.), but who knows what the previous owner did because it was slipping as soon as I upped the power.
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I ran my Evo 16G with a stock clutch for 20,000 miles. It can be done at that power level. It slipped once it was heated up after a couple hard launches, but was fine if I didn't get it too hot (pulls in normal driving with no launches were fine).
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Clutch is brand new so I'm just going to take it easy and try not to blow it up... I've decided to go with a BNR 16G and stay with stock fueling, stock tmic, catless up and down, and a GS EBCS if I can find a good deal on one.

 

Anyone have any tips for when I install the turbo?

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Good point fulton - I imagine mine was abused by either the original owner or the dbags at the stealership I bought it from before it was put up for sale.

 

I mean, my Spec.B's clutch is slipping when I launch at Stage 2 levels. It's all relative. It does have 70k on it, though. My 05's clutch had a total of 25k when I swapped it out for an FX300.

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Clutch is brand new so I'm just going to take it easy and try not to blow it up... I've decided to go with a BNR 16G and stay with stock fueling, stock tmic, catless up and down, and a GS EBCS if I can find a good deal on one.

 

Anyone have any tips for when I install the turbo?

 

Make sure you do the BP mod on the TMIC. I would also go for a catted DP. I had a catless for a while and got tired of the smell.

 

Be careful not to tear the turbo inlet when you go to do the turbo. Also, I found it easier to leave off the bracket that held the UP to the head that bolted on closer to the transmission when I reinstalled everything. Easier to get to the oil return line to clamp it down, and easier to maneuver other stuff around. Also, use worm-drive clamps for the oil return line when you put it back on. And consider replacing the line if it is brittle.

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Make sure you do the BP mod on the TMIC. I would also go for a catted DP. I had a catless for a while and got tired of the smell.

 

Be careful not to tear the turbo inlet when you go to do the turbo. Also, I found it easier to leave off the bracket that held the UP to the head that bolted on closer to the transmission when I reinstalled everything. Easier to get to the oil return line to clamp it down, and easier to maneuver other stuff around. Also, use worm-drive clamps for the oil return line when you put it back on. And consider replacing the line if it is brittle.

 

Thanks for the tips. I may want to find someone with a catless car to see if I can stand it before I put my downpipe on.

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  • 1 year later...
Thanks for the tips. I may want to find someone with a catless car to see if I can stand it before I put my downpipe on.

 

So, It's been more than a year... What happened? What's going on with that car these days?

 

Did you do the BNR 16G? Liked it?

 

Did you put in catless or catted DP? (if catless) How was the smell?

:iam:

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Why not?

Mainly because of the banjo bolt issue that came up. And the fact that my 16g needed a new chra due to "low oil" under moderate use on Rotella 5w40. I think the turbo is fine but the fact that my mechanic had to find a blocked oil passage in the banjo bolt is not a good mark for ip&t. I haven't ponied up for the "upgraded" oil filter kit yet though.

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