mhoran89 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Guys I had a friend that hardwired his valentine 1 into the clock and ran the wire right out of his dash on an old subie. I have the hardwire kit from valentine. Looking to either wire it in with the overhead lights or clock. I do not have the compas autodimming mirror so that's not an option unless subaru pre-ran the wiring for it. Tried taking out the top lights and got the two screws out but couldn't remove the thing without fear of breaking some plastic clips. Had the same problem trying to remove the center dash cover right in front of the clock/mpg/temp screen. Anyone have any suggestions?? (really looking to wire it to the clock if possible and have the wire go down into the dash). Thanks for your consideration in advance - Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Run it along the window liner up top, down inside the driver side door paneling, hook it up right into your fuse box. Find a fuse that is hot only when the car is on and join the positive to it - then take the negative wire and ground it somewhere next to it. This is what I did.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoran89 Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 Run it along the window liner up top, down inside the driver side door paneling, hook it up right into your fuse box. Find a fuse that is hot only when the car is on and join the positive to it - then take the negative wire and ground it somewhere next to it. This is what I did.... I am assuming you just tucked it inside the a-pillar trim? And ground to a wire, sheet metal, or what? Any chance you could post a picture? I am not sure if I have enough wire to go that far. I am assuming I can use regular phone line right? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 I am assuming I can use regular phone line right? Thanks. :eek: No!!! Never!!! Do you want to set your car on fire??!!! Always use wire meant for automotive use, and stranded, not solid wire. It needs to have the proper insulation to shield the wire from heat, chemicals and load. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoran89 Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 :eek: No!!! Never!!! Do you want to set your car on fire??!!! Always use wire meant for automotive use, and stranded, not solid wire. It needs to have the proper insulation to shield the wire from heat, chemicals and load. I meant use a regular phone line from the valentine adaptor to the detector. I believe that's what it is. I didn't mean ghetto rig it with only phone line... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subie_Mick Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Do as Islandborn indicates - use normal wire from an auto parts store Now - without trying to hijack the thread - I have been debating a V1 for a long while. What are your opinions of it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL21376 Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 The V1 uses phone line from the detector to the plug. I love my V1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoran89 Posted February 21, 2013 Author Share Posted February 21, 2013 Do as Islandborn indicates - use normal wire from an auto parts store Now - without trying to hijack the thread - I have been debating a V1 for a long while. What are your opinions of it? Outstanding, the arrows are nice. Had a top of the line escort a few years ago and it also saved me many times. Only thing is if the staties use LIDAR (laser) it's not going to help. I have been lasered once with the V1 and the second it went off I was dead in the water. Has outstanding detection in a straight line, sounds are good, autodimming display, easy to read, has a regular and mute volume, can be set up for ($40) more to only activate over a certain speed, mounting system is superior to an escort. The modes are pretty good as well, I only use logic and advanced logic. Advanced logic eliminates many false alarms when driving in city areas. The unit has good programability which is accessed through button pushes and reading the manual. Also the manual does a good job of teaching you how to assess threats (what's real and what's fake although you will get better with time). Additionally they will update them for half the price of a new one years down the road if you want. (only annoying thing is many new volvo's and infiniti's have laser cruise control which set it off, you learn to ignore laser if you aren't speeding or on the highway). I will be able to directly compare a few years old escort (from experience), a V1, and the K40 system w/ laser jammer in a week or two considering my dad just got the K40 system fully integrated into his new lexus gs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 21, 2013 Share Posted February 21, 2013 Went on ebay to look and apparently it does use phone line. Must be low voltage. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 Here are two pics on how mine is mounted. I run a Beltronics STi Magnum with a Escort hardwire (same company, my Bel hardwire mute button broke). I put the detector there in the corner so it can't be seen from outside (in case someone wants to jack it) or if a cop has pulled me over and looks in my car its not visable....plus it doesn't get direct Texas sun during the summer time. I put my mute button there because with my hand on the shifter I simply stick my finger out and can push the mute.... plus again - stealth factor too. hope this helps ideas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mhoran89 Posted February 23, 2013 Author Share Posted February 23, 2013 Here are two pics on how mine is mounted. I run a Beltronics STi Magnum with a Escort hardwire (same company, my Bel hardwire mute button broke). I put the detector there in the corner so it can't be seen from outside (in case someone wants to jack it) or if a cop has pulled me over and looks in my car its not visable....plus it doesn't get direct Texas sun during the summer time. I put my mute button there because with my hand on the shifter I simply stick my finger out and can push the mute.... plus again - stealth factor too. hope this helps ideas! Nice idea. Only thing is most manuals/experts say not to have it where the factory windshield tint strip is considering it may affect performance. Additionally if you were to mount it right under the rearview mirror so it has a better view (out the rear windshield) it will have better performance (rear alerts). I don't have the smart cord, only a regular hardwire cord from valentine with a built in fuse which is kind of nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Upod21 Posted March 14, 2013 Share Posted March 14, 2013 I just noticed this thread! I was having the same trouble mounting my V1 last year. What I did was mount the V1 underneath my rearview mirror and then ran the wire across the top of the windshield and down the A pillar to the fuse panel. I bought a Bussmann BP/HHH ATM and connected the wire to that and connected it to the fuse panel for the power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anothermasshole Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 I'm thinking this is the best way to mount my V1 (as opposed to trying to tap into wires in the dome light, see my other recent post). Does anyone have instructions for removing the panel below the steering wheel and the side panel below the pillar leading to the fuse box? I searched the forum and google to no avail. Also, is anyone else at all concerned about the wire down the A frame interfering with the side airbag? It look like there is at least part of that airbag in the A frame, though could be wrong... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts_pats Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Great idea. Just did this, took 15min. I had no issues pulling map light housing thing.. 12v wire was right there and plenty of space for wire and inline fuse. So glad that obnoxious power cord isn't hanging there anymore. Plus, as island born said; detector is hidden much better now from public view. Love this forum. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160401/0e615ba5befcc652cc23321e6aa37e18.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anothermasshole Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 Glad that worked out Matt_Pats! Would you mind sharing how you were able to get the map light/sunroof control assembly out? I removed the two screws in the sunglass holder, though only was able to pry one corner of the whole assembly free. Applied a decent amount of force with no luck, was afraid I was going to break something if I pulled any harder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matts_pats Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 After the screws are out, got fingertips under the front/glass side, two clips up front pull straight down. The I was able to wiggle the assembly til the back two clips gave way. Hope that helps. Mine just wasn't very tight. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anothermasshole Posted May 2, 2016 Share Posted May 2, 2016 Thanks matts_pats! I'm finally going to get around to trying again this weekend now that the weather is warming up here in the northeast (I don't have a garage to work in unfortunately . Did you tap into the wiring for the autodimming/homelink rearview mirror? My car just has the standard non-powered mirror though I've read that the wiring should be there regardless. Tried searching for a wiring diagram to no avail thus far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capttris Posted May 3, 2016 Share Posted May 3, 2016 I installed my Valentine1 a few years ago when I bought the car brand new. It was the easiest thing and with taking my time, it was about an hour. Once you have the front map light assembly dropped, use a multimeter to find which wire gets 12V+ when the ignition is on, and the other wire goes to ground. I personally use 3M Marine, heat shrink butt connectors. Especially with the tiny 20AWG wires, you can cut the one you need, and add a 2nd wire into the butt connector, crimp, crimp, heat and shrink (which keeps out moisture and also makes a firmer connection) and stuff the wires back up, run the wire up in the headliner and over to the V1, and you're done. I don't recall which color wire I went to, as I did this back in 2012. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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