evil03mustang Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Well okey dokey then. ...soo... June? Looks like I'm going to be driving one of his loaner cars to Carlisle next weekend. Fudge. Oh well, I'll drive an '08 Outback Wagon the 700 mile round trip. No problem. ..for the record, we ended up taking a 2000 Pontiac Bonneville to Carlisle. The OBW was sold before I got to borrow it. Still did 29MPG though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 Still waiting to hear something.. This is ridiculous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liljonson Posted May 29, 2013 Share Posted May 29, 2013 4 months for this is ridiculous. I work at a dealer and we do get backed up and with how shops are setup you just don't work on 1 care at a time. It should take 2 weeks tops to get a motor job back to you. 3 weeks if half the guys are on vacation. Wtf is going on here? It would of been cheaper to get a low mileage junk yard motor and just freshen that up Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted May 29, 2013 Author Share Posted May 29, 2013 The deal is this... as it has been described to me. Dealer has only a wash bay. Is a used lot, small volume. Sells well-sorted cars in volume (130 per year or so) and diamonds in the rough on occasion (i.e. whenever the major overhaul guy finishes one). Mine is obviously a D.I.R. and as such was low man on the totem pole. The major overhaul guy is a full-time emergency lineman and is on call 24/7. Chances are he's in Moore, OK working on that situation. I'm hoping that if he is, he'll at least come back for a week and tie up some loose ends with my car. I committed to buy it in December and secured financing in March before they decided to replace the pistons and rings. I've not handed over the check, but the loan is now on my credit report and I've made 2 payments on it. I've been to the credit union and they assure me (they know the dealer) that I will have my car and that they're not issuing a collateral note against vapor. So far, it's only been vapor though. I've yet to see the car.. The kicker is that the major overhaul guy is secretive due to a collection of rare motorcycles that he's got... so the dealer doesn't know where the guy is even located. He just shows up with a flatbed and picks up / drops off cars. He is paid for his efforts... with cars. Not cash, not a check... he is given fixeruppers to flip. That's his payment. Yes, we're a bunch of weirdo yokels out this way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Car is done. Picking up tomorrow. Pics and a full write-up to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liljonson Posted May 30, 2013 Share Posted May 30, 2013 Lol. Got it. Gluck with the car. I also went thru hell during and after my purchase with my LGT but it was all sorted out in 3 months after getting subaru headquarters involved. But even after all that I don't regret it. I love my car and wouldn't get rid of it for anything else. I hope you feel the same way with your purchase later down the line :thumbup: Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted June 3, 2013 Author Share Posted June 3, 2013 Taking it easy for the first 1000 miles is gonna SUCK. The only noise it makes if from the injectors. It has a little bit of part-throttle surge in 3,4,5 around 2600-3300 RPM... not sure what that is. I've been a bad boy and run it to 6500 a few times. It flat FLIES. Need to hand it over to dent wizard and then have all the chips fixed and a proper buff... then it's on to enough carnauba to choke a goat... [ame=http://www.flickr.com/photos/64005632@N05/sets/72157633888899193/]LGT - a set on Flickr[/ame] LEG-HUMP!!!!! :eek: It's supposed to be a link... I have no idea what the black box is for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Update: Clutch is gone, intercooler is full of oil. I need something to punch. I've been babying it due to the "new bottom end." I had it inspected yesterday and the rear tires were found to have more tread than the fronts... so I rotated them. When I got it back on the ground, it wouldn't go into gear with the engine running. I pulled the IC to check the clutch linkage, and it was coated with a film of oil.. and the hot side housing was black and drippy. Got to work this morning and it's smoking off the hot side out from under the hood... FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.................................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a93x Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Update: Clutch is gone, intercooler is full of oil. I need something to punch. I've been babying it due to the "new bottom end." I had it inspected yesterday and the rear tires were found to have more tread than the fronts... so I rotated them. When I got it back on the ground, it wouldn't go into gear with the engine running. I pulled the IC to check the clutch linkage, and it was coated with a film of oil.. and the hot side housing was black and drippy. Got to work this morning and it's smoking off the hot side out from under the hood... FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.................................... Why would you even drive it after seeing those issues. Told you to not buy the car Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 6 torque impresses girrls, hp impresses flat-bills Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Update: Clutch is gone, intercooler is full of oil. I need something to punch. I've been babying it due to the "new bottom end." I had it inspected yesterday and the rear tires were found to have more tread than the fronts... so I rotated them. When I got it back on the ground, it wouldn't go into gear with the engine running. I pulled the IC to check the clutch linkage, and it was coated with a film of oil.. and the hot side housing was black and drippy. Got to work this morning and it's smoking off the hot side out from under the hood... FFFFFFFFFFFUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.................................... Ouch Hopefully you can get out of this car and look for another LGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted June 4, 2013 Author Share Posted June 4, 2013 Another LGT will cost me an extra $7000. I think I'll keep throwing parts at this one till it's right. If it costs me another $6k, I'm still ahead? There will be much cursing and gnashing of teeth, but this is the car I want and I will prevail. Eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 I guess it would depend on what you could get for yours. You do have a pretty good attitude about it and there may be cursing and gnashing of teeth, but you should prevail in the end! Hopefully you have a good mechanic familiar with Subarus and you guys tackle it good. It seems like the dealership had someone who wasn't really Subaru savvy. Been an interesting path for you, somewhat similar to mine, and hopefully you get it sorted out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 OK, so I cleaned the IC a bit and drove it around.. if there's any new oil it's hardly noticeable. It hits and holds 13psi without any issues? IDK... I'll be putting a Blouch or AVO380 on it eventually... I just don't want to fill this thing's fresh shortblock full of journal bearing and seize it up... The clutch is still working for now. I'm ordering a replacement on Friday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Good time to go with a single mass flywheel. I believe that finding a little bit of oil around the IC is normal and not a big deal. You may want to replace the PCV, not expensive and could help. One of the many items I wound up changing. Someone is finally caring for the car! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted June 7, 2013 Author Share Posted June 7, 2013 Is the single mass flywheel and clutch going to be durable at stock(ish) power levels for at least 30k miles? If I do that swap, should I go with like an exedy stage 1? I'm not going to be going more than maybe 280whp if even that high. I'll check the PCV as per your recommendation. That's something I usually replace soon after buying any car because the PO's never seem to remember that cars have them. I've seen some pretty rough ones. The bottom end on this one was JUST done, so I figured the guy should have changed it... but you never know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I went with a stock clutch and single mass flywheel from a 2007 Legacy GT (2007 switch from dual mass to single and everything bolts right up to our models). The Subaru dealer did the work. That setup should be completely durable at stock(isn) power levels. However, if you know you're going to be going stage 2 or so it's best to just get a better clutch off the bat. I had my trans work done 3 months into ownership and at that time I was thinking to maybe go stage 2 down the road. Little did I know that 3 months after the trans job I would be doing a short block, turbo, etc, and going stage 3. For now the clutch is holding just fine but I don't beat on it or do hard launches. I'm 6k miles in, I know I'm on borrowed time. I wish I called southbend clutch back when I did the trans last September but I had no idea the direction things would take. Check out southbend clutches (http://www.southbendclutch.com). The guys on bimmerforums rave about them for having stock like feel, yet ability to hold 500-600 ft lbs of tq. You won't need anything near that extreme and could get something more in your tq range, but they have shown to be really good and they seem to like them. Hopefully I get much more from my clutch, but when it goes I'll go with southbend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted June 10, 2013 Author Share Posted June 10, 2013 Ok, so the first 1,000 miles are toast. I ran it a bit today on the way to work. I need to be more careful or I will lose my license. I see what the fuss is all about now. I smelled oil and the turbo oil feed is just barely damp. It was like that the other day too, and I hosed it with brake cleaner to get it clean so as to gauge how fast it was leaking. It weeps ever so slightly... I tried to loosen it and re-tighten it but I can't get it loose. The rest of the feed line starts to bend and I don't want to crack anything... Any tips on getting that line to loosen up? The guy who worked on it must have thought tighter to be better... Any of those fittings I've ever worked on hardly needed to be tight at all to seal up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 I hope it's not cross threaded on there. No reason to be so tight, but try to but support around the b-nut to prevent the line from bending while trying to break it loose while being careful not to damage the line. Hopefully you're able to break it loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Yeah, same here on the cross threading. I'll find out eventually. I'm thinking I'll order the IP&T oil feed line and tackle it at that point. As long as I don't damage the feed line that the turbo line bolts to, I should be OK. When I get the kit in, I'll probably use a tubing cutter to get the turbo side of the line out of the way and use a socket and box wrench combo on it. That HAS to work, right?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Double check with Mike, but I believe he recommends to NOT use that IP&T kit with a stock VF40 turbo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Crap. Really? What if I put a restrictor in somehow? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 There should be no need for anything, your stock lines should be fine for a stock VF40 turbo. Again, double check with Mike at Infamous. Your #1 thing will be to check your banjo bolt inline oil filter in the turbo oil supply line. There are many threads on this if you google search it, and plenty of threads with pics on where it is and how to remove. I found mine that way, the pics are good. You can choose to remove the filter element, or leave it in and make sure to check it often. That filter clogging up can tank your turbo and even your engine in a hurry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted July 1, 2013 Author Share Posted July 1, 2013 Why does the power come on real notchy between 2200 and about 2800 rpm? is that just normal behavior for these? I'm wondering why my boost psi seems about half a pound low. Sign of eventual turbo failure? My torque pro data logs show average peak of about 12.7, with the occasional 13.3 or 13.4.. shouldn't it be an average peak of 13.5-14? I mean... it's damn quick and all.. just... feels like it has more to give. What's normal oil consumption on these? Seems like it burns through a quart every 1,000 miles or so. Is that normal on a fresh shortblock? Is the oil going out the turbo oil seals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Serb Legacy GT Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Sounds like you have the Subaru studder/stumble. I had that too, when in 3rd gear at 2500 rpm or so. If I floored it, it would hesitate or studder/stumble until about 4k rpm and then smoothly accelerate. A stage one reflash takes care of that from what I hear. I can say that my new short block does not do that at all, but I have also been running an e-tune the whole time. I'm not so sure about how boost should behave on a stock setup, but it should peak near the stock 13.5. What oil are you running? I'm about 3k miles into my new short block and I luckily have not had any oil consumption noted. I did go dino oil (castrol 5w30) for break-in until about 1500 miles. I changed oil at 50 miles, 500, 1500, then went Rotella T6 (5w40) since then. I did an oil change again after 1k miles (2500 total on new short block) due to running rich. Still, for the 1k miles I checked my oil constantly and it didn't burn anything. It's hard to speculate where your oil would be going, if it's going anywhere at all. If it's the original pcv, that's a good thing to change and could help you reduce consumption. You can check, or have a mechanic check to see if it's leaking through the turbo seals. The only real way to find out is to poke around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evil03mustang Posted July 8, 2013 Author Share Posted July 8, 2013 It was said somewhere else that going from my stock .0490 restrictor pill to the .0430 restrictor pill would help with the stumble/stutter as well.. I do plan to have it tuned, but I need to take care of some other financial obligations first. In the meantime, the stutter is driving me insane. Talk about your crappy factory tunes. I really want the stumble to go away, as that's my cruise control speed on my drive to work.. I either have to drive faster or drop to 4th and waste gas. Irritating. I'm running Rotella T6 / Napa Gold 7712 (23PSI relief) currently, with little to no consumption. I've been driving the piss out of it, too. I'm on my 3rd oil fill since I bought the car. One more oil change at the 4500 miles since purchase mark, and then the following oil change at 8000 gets sent to Blackstone. I just want to make sure there's no leftover assembly lube or other background noise being sent in with my sample. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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