Chris GTO TT Posted January 21, 2018 Author Share Posted January 21, 2018 At your current power level and all that cooling you might have trouble keeping enough heat in your brakes now 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 (edited) If it continues that way you'd need bigger rims and lower tire profiles. And some serious suspension parts: http://www.ohlinsauto.se/products/automotive/road-track/mazda-mx-5-miata-1998-2005-na-nb/ Edited January 22, 2018 by ehsnils Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 22, 2018 Author Share Posted January 22, 2018 His current setup is arguably better than Ohlins 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 22, 2018 Share Posted January 22, 2018 If it continues that way you'd need bigger rims and lower tire profiles. And some serious suspension parts: http://www.ohlinsauto.se/products/automotive/road-track/mazda-mx-5-miata-1998-2005-na-nb/ The only 'bigger' they're going to get is wider... once I add some power down the road. And fender flares... How 'bout a 15x11 with 275 Hoosiers... http://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.miataturbo.net-vbulletin/924x960/80-12509116_10153401168637749_8724966525210227181_n_4d03a03394d550c511e4cbfcad59628ed5f2cda3.jpg As far as suspension, Ohlins makes some good stuff, but their off the shelf coilovers for Miatas are not as good as the 949 Xidas I'm currently running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 23, 2018 Share Posted January 23, 2018 Pads are finally in, so I can get started on the actual install... DSC_1564 by Rodan AZ, on Flickr I also sold my spare BP4W engine and BP4W head over the weekend, so my wife's race school and FM Summer Camp are paid for... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 23, 2018 Author Share Posted January 23, 2018 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 In progress.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 When will Doc Brown finish your hover conversion? 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 My FM order arrived today 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Time for some wrenchin'... Speaking of which, I spent all day wrenchin' today on my brakes. ALL day... and it's still not done. Several things that should have been easy were a PITA, and then had a major snafu with the booster. But, all that's left is bleeding them. More tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Finished installing the brakes... overall the install was a PITA. There's a lot of things I don't really like about the Wilwood calipers... Supermiata / V8R 11.75 fronts with Dynapro radial mount Flyin' Miata Powerlight radial mount rears on Sport rotors w/ parking brake Also installed a Wilwood 1" master, Wilwood prop valve and G-Loc R12 front and R10 rear pads. The pads dust a little... this is just from bedding them! I'm hoping they'll settle down a little now that they're bedded. HOLY CRAP these things WORK! The improvement over the stock 1.6 brakes is incredible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 So, some issues... First, these stupid little stickers over the brake line inputs to the calipers... Which, on every single caliper, failed to come off cleanly... Cleaning them, while trying to ensure no little particles of sticker fell into the hole was a PITA. Second, the calipers use an NPT fitting for the fluid lines... which are a PITA to seal. I chased info on what type of sealer to use for a while then called Willwood... who said to just use teflon tape. I've had to tighten them several times... I snug them up, because I'm trying to be careful of stripping them, and they weep... so I tighten some more. I think I've finally got 'em. I hope... Next, the bleeders... every caliper has FOUR of them! Fortunately, you only need to bleed the uppers, but it does create multiple failure points. And then there's the access to the bleeders... The bleeder nipples were so tight, trying to open them loosened a couple of the brass adapter fittings... which are almost impossible to get a wrench on to tighten! On one side of the caliper a socket fits, but there's a bolt head in the way on the other side... The other thing that screwed me up yesterday was the vacuum booster. The info on 949's site recommends an "01-05 Sport" booster, but not a Mazdaspeed booster... guess what, they're the same part number. Which I didn't discover 'till yesterday. I'm still trying to sort it all out, but I believe an NB1 booster is what's needed. The difference is that the rod on one sticks out from the mounting surface and the other is recessed. For now I retained my NA booster which works. I've just got another, brand new, $180 booster I don't need... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 All in all, though... the result is FANTASTIC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyRuu Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 so sorry to butt in here, i'm getting close to paying of my student loans, and will have money to throw at fun stuff. I've been thinking of Bimmers e36's (obd1 era), but have always thought of the miata as a better decision financially (at least at first). I've been trying to learn miata's a bit to get into Motorsports with. something to keep N/A but to thrash, get seat time in, learn basics, then continue to track because stock N/A. what chassis or years should I be considering mostly to learn in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 Honestly any NA or NB Miata (90-05) would be a decent car for you. You just have to decide what kind of money you're willing to spend. 90-93 cars have the 1.6L and only have an available vlsd. The 94-97 cars got the 1.8L, bigger brakes, available Torsen lsd. there is no 98 US model year. The 99-00 cars still got a 1.8L but with improvements to the intake manifold and head for more HP. There are also available packages with the 6spd, better chassis bracing and even bigger brakes. 01-05 cars got VVT on the intake manifold which makes a lot more mid-range torque, but changes to the intake manifold means no extra HP. The 6spd sport package was a little more widely available. In 03 the bracing and brakes became standard across all cars. The differentials also changed depending on the year. 01-02 had an available Torosen, 03 kept the same final drive but switched to a clutch type, and 04-05 6spd cars (excluding MazdaSpeed) got a different final drive with the same clutch type. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Chris already hit most of the points. NAs are light, have some additional cool factor, but require upgrades to get really interesting. They are also on the upswing in values, as it's getting harder to find clean, original cars, and prices are climbing. NBs are where the real value is right now. An NB2 ('01-05) has all the best stuff, but is a little heavier car. It's really the best place to start, as the car will be more capable than a stock NA. Also, the NBs are right at the bottom of the depreciation curve, so you can find some really good values. NCs ('05-15) are also starting to bottom out value wise, at least for the early cars. Buy a cheap, high mile NC and throw in a 2.5 motor, a relatively cheap and easy swap, and do some suspension work, and it'll outrun an NA/NB around a track. It's a pretty good platform, but the aftermarket is not as developed as for the early cars. Best value: Good NB2, add SS brake lines, good fluid and pads, shocks/springs, and good rubber, and you'll have an HPDE car that can punch well above it's weight. And it will be a really good learning tool with room for serious growth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 29, 2018 Author Share Posted January 29, 2018 I agree on the NC's though decently clean ones with a clean title still command a premium. One of the great things about the NC is it is effectively a light weight RX-8 with a reliable engine. With decent shocks and springs they really come alive like the RX-8. 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 Chris already hit most of the points. NAs are light, have some additional cool factor, but require upgrades to get really interesting. They are also on the upswing in values, as it's getting harder to find clean, original cars, and prices are climbing. NBs are where the real value is right now. An NB2 ('01-05) has all the best stuff, but is a little heavier car. It's really the best place to start, as the car will be more capable than a stock NA. Also, the NBs are right at the bottom of the depreciation curve, so you can find some really good values. NCs ('05-15) are also starting to bottom out value wise, at least for the early cars. Buy a cheap, high mile NC and throw in a 2.5 motor, a relatively cheap and easy swap, and do some suspension work, and it'll outrun an NA/NB around a track. It's a pretty good platform, but the aftermarket is not as developed as for the early cars. Best value: Good NB2, add SS brake lines, good fluid and pads, shocks/springs, and good rubber, and you'll have an HPDE car that can punch well above it's weight. And it will be a really good learning tool with room for serious growth. Does the 2.5 motor swap in the NC require a harness change? Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 29, 2018 Share Posted January 29, 2018 No. It's essentially the same engine as the stock 2.0. There are a few minor differences, but it's nearly as 'bolt-in' as a 1.8 in a 1.6 NA. Lots of info over on M.net. And the motors are cheap! I've been looking at the swap for our NC, and I've found motors under 10k miles for under $500. A stock NC makes ~140 at the wheels. The 2.5, with a header and tune, bumps that up to the 160s. With cams numbers are in the 180s. The big difference is the 2.5 makes a lot more torque than the 2.0, which really shows in street driving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDII Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Is it the 2.5 from the Mazda3? Need forum help? Private Message legGTLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodan Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 As many know we are replacing the 2.0 with the 2.5, so here's some of the info documented so that folks can get an idea as to what to expect. Some of this is from what we've done here, some are portions from various combinations we've tuned that others put in: 2.5 long black should be obtained from a 2009+ Mazda 3, 6, Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan, or nearly ANY 4 cylinder duratec 2009+ that is a 2.5. Same goes for Mazda MZR 2.5's post 2009. HP: Where a stock NC might dyno 140whp, expect 170 NA on the 2.5 w/bolt-ons, 180 with street cams, 200 with race cams 220 with an intake/ITBs, 240 with high compression pistons and all of the above. Note that because the torque is higher and the curve is more broad, a 2.5 170hp will feel much stronger below 6k than the 2.0 at the same HP. Motor mounts are direct bolt-ons, trans bolts up the same, exhaust manifold is the same. https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=522719 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Just gonna leave these here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GTO TT Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 Is that a 2.0 from a NC Miata in a NA? 2003 Baja 5MT 2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Is that a 2.0 from a NC Miata in a NA? Better, it's a 2.4 from a gm product Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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