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Bought a Miata


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3 car garage... :wub:

 

 

Finally got a chance to give the NB a good wash and take some pics not in the driveway...

 

24790025607_57c010a12c_c.jpg

39628507292_607c83eaa2_c.jpg

24790024407_f753515f89_c.jpg

 

It's kind of fun to start with a stock car again! :p

 

I put a bunch of Miata stuff on CL today, and have been dealing with scam texts all afternoon... irritating! :mad:

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3 car garage... :wub:

 

 

Finally got a chance to give the NB a good wash and take some pics not in the driveway...

 

Pics

 

It's kind of fun to start with a stock car again! :p

 

I put a bunch of Miata stuff on CL today, and have been dealing with scam texts all afternoon... irritating! :mad:

 

Always showing me up :lol:

 

Yep I'm quite happy to have space in the garage for the Miata now. I still wish we could have found a 3 wide we liked, but this is still nice!

 

Honestly part of me would like to go back to stock sport suspension. It'd still be fun on the track, but so much nicer on the street.

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

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Today was headlight day...

 

Used the same Sylvania kit I used on the other NB, and did our NC and NB...

 

NC before:

 

39642915922_706b756d72_c.jpg

 

NC After:

 

24804820917_3b636141a9_c.jpg

 

NB before:

 

38964766454_053c505002_c.jpg

 

NB after:

 

27895301999_a76188baa1_c.jpg

 

AZ is brutal on plastic headlights...

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I plan on pulling my motor Feb 9-12. I need to get an engine stand and hopefully I can get borrow a hoist. I think I'm going to just buy the FM timing tool kit. I plan on replacing front main seal, cam seals rear main seal, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, radiator, coolant hoses and engine mounts. What else should I do while I'm in there?

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

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I plan on pulling my motor Feb 9-12. I need to get an engine stand and hopefully I can get borrow a hoist. I think I'm going to just buy the FM timing tool kit. I plan on replacing front main seal, cam seals rear main seal, clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, throw out bearing, radiator, coolant hoses and engine mounts. What else should I do while I'm in there?

 

Harbor Freight engine stands are pretty cheap and work fine. The bellhousing bolts are usually not long enough for the engine stand mount, so you may need to pick up 4 longer bolts to mount it. I don't have the thread specs off the top of my head, but you can find it by looking up the bellhousing bolt... pretty sure it's 12mm, but I don't remember the pitch. Get a bunch of washers as well, some of the bolts will bottom in the block, so you'll want to be able to adjust the length and keep it tight on the stand.

 

This is very useful and almost required when pulling the engine:

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

 

Do yourself a favor and buy one if the hoist you're using doesn't have one.

 

If you haven't done them yet, don't forget the clutch hydraulics, and replace the pilot bearing.

 

The FM timing tool works great, and you might as well just buy the kit if you're doing all the seals... their seal tools are nifty as well.

 

I give some thought to a coolant re-route, though to really do it right on an NB, it needs the earlier head gasket, which means pulling the head. It also adds quite a bit of expense and time... but you get the chance to clean everything... ain't project creep grand! :p

 

I've used the Mazda Comp engine mounts from Goodwin on both cars and am happy with them. They work great unless you want lots of NVH.

 

Other than that, it sounds like you've got it covered. :D

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I didn't get a lot done on the cars today, but got some peripheral tasks out of the way. A friend's grandson popped the 1.6 in his NA last Fall, and is supposed to be buying the BP4W that came out of the black NB. I took the engine over to my friend's house this morning, and also dropped off the automatic trans and all the related parts with an acquaintance who has an auto NA. I hope he gets some use out of it... better than dumping it for scrap. With all that out of the way, I was able to move the engine hoist and stand out of the garage and clean things up a bit.

 

Next, I dug out the FM VMaxx coilovers that were originally on my NA. I had bought NB mounts when I got them, so they'll bolt right into the NB. I spent a little while adjusting them to what should give ~.75" more ride height than the NA had... maybe more like .5", given that the NB is probably a couple hundred pounds heavier. Since it's just a driver, it doesn't need as aggressive a setup as the NA had.

 

39059578514_9f41f6f6c9_c.jpg

 

Tomorrow, I'm taking all 8 NB wheels to the local Discount tire to swap the tires. The black car had some decent looking, albeit "no name" all-seasons in 195/55-15 on the stock wheels, while the blue car had the Konig Rewinds with worn out Kumhos in 195/50-15. I'm putting the all-seasons on the Konigs, which I think will work out better for the NB... the Kumhos were getting hard and noisy. The extra sidewall should make the ride a little nicer. The other set is just needed to hold the parts car up....

 

While they're swapping the tires around, I'll be swapping the suspension.

 

I also got a tracking number for my brake pads today. Should be in by the middle of next week. Everything else has arrived, so I should be able to start the brake swap on the NA next weekend. Then I'll have a set of Konig Flatouts with Conti ECS in 205/50-15 for fun rubber for the NB, as I don't think they'll fit over the new brakes on the NA.

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Harbor Freight engine stands are pretty cheap and work fine. The bellhousing bolts are usually not long enough for the engine stand mount, so you may need to pick up 4 longer bolts to mount it. I don't have the thread specs off the top of my head, but you can find it by looking up the bellhousing bolt... pretty sure it's 12mm, but I don't remember the pitch. Get a bunch of washers as well, some of the bolts will bottom in the block, so you'll want to be able to adjust the length and keep it tight on the stand.
Yeah I'm planning on buying the HF stand. I think I still have the extended bolts I used way back when I did the 1.8 swap on my 90.

This is very useful and almost required when pulling the engine:

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html

 

Do yourself a favor and buy one if the hoist you're using doesn't have one.

I might have to look into it, i've never used one before when pulling engines I usually just muscle it around to get the engine and trans mated. :lol:

If you haven't done them yet, don't forget the clutch hydraulics, and replace the pilot bearing.

 

The FM timing tool works great, and you might as well just buy the kit if you're doing all the seals... their seal tools are nifty as well.

The PO claimed the replaced the slave before I bought it. I may throw a slave at it just for ease. I'm tempted to get the replacement line from the master to the slave.

I give some thought to a coolant re-route, though to really do it right on an NB, it needs the earlier head gasket, which means pulling the head. It also adds quite a bit of expense and time... but you get the chance to clean everything... ain't project creep grand! :p

Not willing to tackle the reroute nor the HG job to make it most effective on the VVT cars.

I've used the Mazda Comp engine mounts from Goodwin on both cars and am happy with them. They work great unless you want lots of NVH.

 

Other than that, it sounds like you've got it covered. :D

 

I also have the comp mounts. Not willing to go to the poly mounts... I had the softest available durometer ones on my old 3000GT VR-4 and even those had a bit mroe NVH than I really wanted. I'm halfway tempted to throw money at a 6spd and 3.90 diff :spin:

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

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I might have to look into it, i've never used one before when pulling engines I usually just muscle it around to get the engine and trans mated. :lol:

 

 

Are you separating the trans before pulling the engine?

 

I pull them together, and the 'leveler' is required to get enough angle to clear the front radiator support. I posted this pic a few pages back, but it shows the angle pretty well:

 

39516275722_9b58a9ca98_c.jpg

 

It's a LOT easier to mate the engine/trans out of the car and then stick the whole thing in together.

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opinions on either?

 

https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/cto/d/1999-miata-1991-miata/6437792281.html

 

like the blue one, dependent upon the condition of the body

 

Probably neither...

 

NBs tend to rust under the tupperware (body cladding), so if rust is visible, it could be well advanced. Other than the rust and the dent in the pax door, the NB doesn't sound bad. Price is very low for the mileage, not a good sign.

 

The NA has lots of unknowns with a supercharged engine... and it's a 1.6.

 

>rant< Why can't people take decent pictures for shit they're trying to sell... :mad: >/rant<

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Quick pic after the VMaxx install...

 

38888166375_8b25d54140_c.jpg

 

I'd prefer it to sit a little higher, since this one isn't a track car, but I'm out of adjustment on the front. I may end up getting some new springs down the road to try to bring it up a touch.

 

Good news is it drives great... really tightened things up. Easy to slide around on the all -seasons and it's pretty neutral considering I have no idea what the alignment numbers look like. I've got an alignment scheduled for next week.

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Probably neither...

 

NBs tend to rust under the tupperware (body cladding), so if rust is visible, it could be well advanced. Other than the rust and the dent in the pax door, the NB doesn't sound bad. Price is very low for the mileage, not a good sign.

 

The NA has lots of unknowns with a supercharged engine... and it's a 1.6.

 

>rant< Why can't people take decent pictures for shit they're trying to sell... :mad: >/rant<

 

Agreed 100%

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

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Quick pic after the VMaxx install...

 

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4621/38888166375_8b25d54140_c.jpg

 

I'd prefer it to sit a little higher, since this one isn't a track car, but I'm out of adjustment on the front. I may end up getting some new springs down the road to try to bring it up a touch.

 

Good news is it drives great... really tightened things up. Easy to slide around on the all -seasons and it's pretty neutral considering I have no idea what the alignment numbers look like. I've got an alignment scheduled for next week.

 

Interesting, according to FM 90-00 V-Maxx all use the same springs. They do sell the longer V8/01-05 springs too, but they don't let you use the tenders.

2003 Baja 5MT

2016 Outback 2.5i Premium w/Eyesight

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Interesting, according to FM 90-00 V-Maxx all use the same springs. They do sell the longer V8/01-05 springs too, but they don't let you use the tenders.

 

It's within the height specs FM lists on their site at 12.25" front and 12.75" (hub to fender), but I wouldn't mind having another 1/2" of ride height.

 

The VMaxx, as far as I know, take a standard 60mm spring, so I may be able to source one slightly longer at similar spring rates.

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Big brakes are big!

 

25949156748_cb17016148_c.jpg

 

The stock 1.6 brakes are comically small :lol:

 

I did a quick test fit today... hoping to do the actual install later this week.

 

Singular vents:

39790033882_81586c4492_c.jpg

 

Rotors and calipers mouted:

39790034542_f0c0c8481a_c.jpg

 

Stock v. BIG...

25949155268_ffb99262bb_c.jpg

39790034992_fc8f69533b_c.jpg

 

Actually, those wheels bolt on, but there's literally no clearance to the caliper, even with a 5mm spacer. I'll be running it with the 6ULs...

 

39790035442_20a61deba7_c.jpg

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