Here's a doozy

[CaptainGVT]

Am I correct in thinking that if/when it runs, the ECU will learn and make minor corrections to smooth things out? Then it will start throwing codes for me to check. Tomorrow is another day, will play a bit more with it.

 

BTW- Plugs brand new, as are injectors, coil packs... pretty much everything aside from bolt on plumbing and the sump.

[mwiener2]

So why does your "kit car" have to be OBDII?

[CaptainGVT]

 

OBDII for resale one day, all states don't look at emissions the same, so I want to keep that, as well as the ABS, and all of the other etc. Car is registered as a 2012 Custom in North Carolina- so emissions are compulsory.

 

[bob-e]

my race car works with no key and stock ecu with cobb ap. Dunno how, because I didn't build it. all I can say is it's possible. http://www.phoenixperformance.net/ built the car. they may be able to help you out. I think they are on here as well

[Gex]

If you are running a built block and FP green turbo. The Cobb ap stage 2 map will not run well. Setup needs a custom tune which can be done with the software that is used on the accessport.

[lingling1337]

If you are running a built block and FP green turbo. The Cobb ap stage 2 map will not run well. Setup needs a custom tune which can be done with the software that is used on the accessport.

 

This thread is way over my head but that ^ is definitely true. You may be able to get it to start on a stock or stage 2 map but you should be custom tuned asap when it's running.

[GTEASER]

Subscribed to see this custom beast.

[CaptainGVT]

This thread is way over my head but that ^ is definitely true. You may be able to get it to start on a stock or stage 2 map but you should be custom tuned asap when it's running.

 

This is GREAT info. Can you advise if there are ANY Cobb settings that would allow the car to run safely until we can get it properly tuned? I was hoping that we could get the car back to factory spec, to establish a baseline before the tuning started.

 

With a new turbo, perrin up/down, and BOV- would resetting back to factory specs be a bad option just to safely get her broken in?

 

No real tuners in my area, so I will need to get the car to a drivable state before ANY tuning begins.

[frank_ster]

^ try unplugging the maf .. the car has base maps so that it will run with out the maf sensor so you can at least get it started.. are your running stock size or near injectors?

[mwiener2]

Since when does OBDII matter for a kit car for emissions?

[SBT]

So is this going into an FFR 808 project car?

[CaptainGVT]

Better days when the car was running with the test mill>

 

http://cmd.shutterfly.com/commands/pictures/slideshow?site=3fiddy6finished&page=3fiddy6finished/pictures&album=8&albumPath=

 

Car was built by a custom builder, tube frame, billet and milled parts, etc. Not really a "kit car" and NO VW parts were used in her conception. Hence, the registration: Custom Built 2012 car. Custom car + 2012 VIN build date= EMISSION REGULATED (for: MWeiner2).... again.

 

Frank_ster: Injectors are stock size (and thanks for continued good advice!)

 

Will try the MAF disconnect tomorrow, and update.

[frank_ster]

^ just curious about the american (or your state)laws.. i understand the emissions regulated.

but does that automatically mean it needs to be obd2 ?

 

and would it have to match emissions of a 2012 subaru or kia or etc... ?

 

but i dont think you will have any issues getting the obd2 to work once its running its simply a matter of clearing codes. and you can even turn off codes with the acessport.

and plenty of persons here have past with modified legacy's but they only need to be equal to year of manufacturer not 7 years newer.

[CaptainGVT]

Sputter, but no start. On the flatbed, and into the Subie shop tomorrow to see if they can reflash the immobilizer/new ECU.

[CaptainGVT]

So, the Subie tech hooked her up and reflashed the ECU, BIU, immobilizer in hopes that it would solve the issue. After clearing most of the codes thrown she still won't start, and has the following that won't clear:

 

B0300- Can-LS Malfunction

B0031- Can-LS Counter Abnormal

B0321- Can-LS Meter No Receiver Data

 

Any advice from here? The guys at the shop said there is a wire that has been disconnected somewhere... just not sure where to look now. I mean, there's only a million wires to check. ARGHH!

 

Explanation of the codes is my next question... I am wondering if there is a direction I should be heading?

[frank_ster]

well if there was a issue the ecm biu imobilizer would not let any fire or any fuel so the spuddering is deceiving.

 

just for shits and giggles see if you can get it to fire on either quick start , wd40 or even gas in a spray bottle what ever you feel most comfortable with.

pull out the plugs and they might be soaking wet since the has been cranked so many times with out actually starting and firing.

 

if the engine is from a acidented car the cams could possibly out of phase. and warning subaru cam timing protocall is not similar to any other engine.

[SBT]

if the engine is from a acidented car the cams could possibly out of phase. and warning subaru cam timing protocall is not similar to any other engine.

 

Was just thinking this myself. If a FE collision, that pushed back into the cam pulleys, you could have more than just timing that's jumped, you could have a host of internal issues, least of which is a bad pulley...but interference engine, you'd know it if it's borked.

[Cainnibl]

I've looked up your codes in the factory service manual... B0031 doesn't exist... did you mean B0301??? I'm gonna assume you did... basically those codes combined mean a disconnected wire between your BIU and your Combination Meter (instrument cluster). You should find a twisted pair of pink and purple wires going from one to the other. Check every inch of it if you can to make sure they are not shorted to something else and check continuity from one end to another to make sure you don't have any open circuits.

 

Unfortunately this shouldn't stop your car from running. So I think you have more than one problem. Are you sure you're not over thinking this? have you checked the basics?

If seen a new build (non-subaru) run like crap and boggle everyone for days just to find out the crank was at BDC instead of TDC when the timing belt was put on (no one knew that flywheel had 2 timing marks 180 apart). Also be aware that most inline 4cyl engines use a firing order of 1-3-4-2, the subaru flat 4 uses 1-3-2-4. Both of the above examples would run like crap on a sorted tune but not not stay running at all on an untuned setup.

 

If you can get a hold of a FSM in pdf form, they have step by step diagnostic procedures for each trouble code. If you get sick of deal with this and want to take a brake. There was once a member here that linked some really nice "vacation pics" he had hosted somewhere. That may help ease your frustration Only problem is the host has changed a few times....

 

Anyone have the latest link to the vacation pics to help this guy out?

 

Wiring is kinda my thing so I'll keep checking in to see if I can help more. Altho I've never worked with anything new enough to have a CAN network like the 05 and up subarus I do have a good amount of experience building/modifying harnesses for pro rally cars and other custom needs so I'll do what I can for you.

 

good luck...

 

Caine,

[frank_ster]

from the first post the engine is a newly rebuilt engine..

 

does it saw er hc on the cluster?

 

fyi the 05 legacys can display their troubble codes on the cluster.

[CaptainGVT]

Thinking I am going to take a break from it for a week, but will keep you guys posted when I get back into it. Brain is frazzled.

 

I have found a Factory Service Manual, and will work my way through it when the smoke between my ears settles.

[Cainnibl]

I understand it's a newly rebuilt engine (I've read the whole thread.). That was exactly my point. It's always possible a simple mistake was made on assembly (It happens to the best of us, lol.). I'm pretty sure nearly every post-build mystery I've ever helped solve was something simple that was overlooked.

 

Wouldn't you agree that the codes he has shouldn't stop the car from running? And that would point to more than one problem?

 

also I found the "vacation pix"...

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/wants-see-my-vacation-pixi-6216p23.html?highlight=vacation+pics

 

Hope this helps.

[CaptainGVT]

I am back on it now, and am testing components to make sure they are not the cause of the problem. As of tonight... still no fire.

 

I obtained a factory service manual, and it is a great help in "pinning-out" items that I think may be an issue. So far, I have tested:

 

Coil packs- test positive, just not providing fire. All wires have continuity and are arriving to the ECU correctly.

Crank position sensor pulses 7amps when key turns over.

There was no continuity between the Violet (pink) wire and the Purple wire from the BIU to the Combination Meter- Thanks for that Cainnibl. If the BIU is now talking to the Combination Meter, would I have to re-flash the immobilizer at the Subie shop? It seems to me to be in the ECU or the immobilizer now.

 

If signal gets to the ECU from the Crank Position Sensor, but the signal to fire the coil packs does not arrive- is that ECU? Immobilizer??

 

Would love some more good advise before Friday when I will get another opportunity to wrench.

[CaptainGVT]

bump again?

[frank_ster]

wish i could do more ..

[CaptainGVT]

So, there's good news today. After testing for continuity, and running ohms through MANY wires, I found a broken wire that led me to think that I got the ECU and the BIU talking again. I trailered it to the Subie dealer today, and we reflashed the immobilizer. FIRE! Whoo hoo!!

 

Well, more like sputter. I turn the key and it sputters for a few turns but never runs. Remembering, this is a brand new engine- is there anything I am missing?

 

I have fuel, and I have fire... but not a constant running car. I get a few sputters, but nothing sustained.

 

Last chance?? Any advice??