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ej22t build.


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I said that once. Now I leave for boot camp in 15 days and I still don't have the new motor in yet.

 

Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2

 

 

well its a good thing im not in the military then huh? :p

 

ps, thanks for your future service to our country.

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I don't know if an aftermarket ebc would work with the 1st gen ecu. But you can install a manual boost controller (mbc) like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/250376956462?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 This is what I purchased and will install after I install my intercooler. It will work fine with no problems. A Hallman mbc is also a good choice but it is 5x as much, although a very slick product.

 

If you can't find an ebc just install the mbc which allows you to fine tune your boost level. Like I have already said, you might just be able to install another drop resistor. It shares the same type of harness plug as the ebc and you may be able to put a drop resistor in it's place.

 

Stock boost level on a 22T is 8.7 psi. With a mbc you can go up to about 13 psi until fuel cut. Increasing the boost beyond stock levels isn't recommended until you install a TMIC, you don't want to risk detonation. The 8.7 psi is pretty awesome to begin with. Iirc many stock WRXs only boost up to 10-12 psi. 1st and 2nd gen platforms are awesome because they are so light. The stock 22T puts out a lot of torque. About 170 ft. lbs at the wheels. I'd love to see how my SS would do against a stock WRX. And people love to bash the 4EAT but with POWER mode engaged it is extremely fast and shifts so smoothly that I am really beginning to appreciate it's ability.

 

Once you install a TMIC and a larger turbo you can get around the ecu fuel cut with a fuel cut defender.

 

Just about everything I learned about 1st gens and 22Ts I learned on bbs.legacycentral.org: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php Some extremely knowledgeable folks over there.

 

I would recommend checking it out. You can also place a WTB ad over there and find everything you could possibly need (maybe the exception would be a turbo inlet elbow, lol). I might think about parting with my collection of extra sensors but only if you are getting really desperate.

 

And swagon, you could get away with a standalone in Utah where I live, but only on '95 and earlier models. Which is really cool because my L wagon is a 95 so I can swap anything I want into it and it just has to pass the sniffer test.

 

edit: Make sure you relocate your canister purge control solenoid to the top of the intake manifold. They always fail and throw a CEL. They are very hard to replace unless you remove the turbo or remove the intake manifold. Take a look at this pic. The solenoid has the blue harness plug. When I took this pic I was testing for boost leaks with my DIY boost leak detector (which works wonders, btw. DIY link:http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-boost-leak-tester-ss-199337.html) so disregard that part of the photo.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Bumping this post. Anyone know how much power I can get by adding 2.5 heads to my 2.2? With new cams, headers, and all.

 

Using very thin head gaskets & a late EJ22 (96-98), you will make more power than a regular 22E using 25D heads but ALL of your power will be available past 3.2k rpms, since you'll probably end up very close to stock compression or a little beyond.

 

I have such an engine built & it runs well but she's lazy up to 3k rpm.

The 97-99 DOHC heads are not an issue to use because the 22E cylinders are completely enclosed in the cylinder head chambers & they will literally bolt right on & run just like that.

 

You just need the 25D intake, coolant pipe for the right head, & the 25D oil dipstick. You can use your 22E oil pan but I would suggest replacing it with the 25D to be on the safe side.

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I know of a local guy who put some 25D heads on a 22T, but he had to do some work to them and using a standalone. If you have to have better heads a popular option is to get some 20G heads and the 20G intake mani. The stock 22T ecu handles them just fine, and if you can find a 20G ecu and get it robtuned you are really in business. Here are some good 'unspoken details' from bbs: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=38247

 

Might have already been mentioned, but you can get a wrx ecu and harness, some 205 heads and intake mani, and go that route. That is what I may do. I have the wrx harness and ecu. However, I am contemplating just finding a stock 22T harness and ecu and just throwing in some 257 rods and wisecos and use the stock 22T heads. The stock 22T is actually pretty damn fast in my SS. And a td04 and tmic should add 30-40 hp.

 

I really want to do a stroker build, but it is looking like I'll be poor for quite some time and I don't want to wait 5 years to turbo my wagon.

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Ya guy flaked out and said "no, I want more money." After agreeing for 500 he bumped up to 800. So I had to pass. I didn't have money. And now it's not on CL. I have a guy who owns a subaru shop and is a subaru mechanic, he's got a wrx motor with Internals and sti heads and wrx intake for 400. So looking at that. Gonna call PIA too to see what they got. But I'm sure there prices are a lot higher. We will see.
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also im looking at ebay. there are some jdm engines (a ej20de-tt is what it says. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-EJ20DE-TT-Complete-Swap-With-5-Speed-and-ECU-/350705867950?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a7b2dcae&vxp=mtr )

 

are they by any chance a high risk buy? i know shipping on one like this is around 900 for me, but, i can make the trip to cali for like 300. but i have a guy who has a wrx block with sti heads and all wrx internals. has a spun bearing. wants 400 bucks for it. what makes a better deal? buying the rest of the parts for that wrx motor or checking into this ebay motor?

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also im looking at ebay. there are some jdm engines (a ej20de-tt is what it says. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-EJ20DE-TT-Complete-Swap-With-5-Speed-and-ECU-/350705867950?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item51a7b2dcae&vxp=mtr )

 

are they by any chance a high risk buy? i know shipping on one like this is around 900 for me, but, i can make the trip to cali for like 300. but i have a guy who has a wrx block with sti heads and all wrx internals. has a spun bearing. wants 400 bucks for it. what makes a better deal? buying the rest of the parts for that wrx motor or checking into this ebay motor?

 

How deep are you willing to go in the rebuild?

Is the WRX block a 2L? 2.5L?

If you're going to replace the internals, you may as well get that WRX block & start on that.

You'll want to save your money if that is the case so that you can buy what you need & have money for machine work & such.

And that "EJ20DE-TT" could one of a myriad of EJ20 twin turbos or there (a lot of which are just about to shit out a bearing).

You really DON'T want to mess with those unless you're just going after heads, block, or the whole shortblock to convert to single turbo, which will be a lot more than the work you have to do for the WRX block.

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