tharder1371 Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Here's the car details... 1996 Legacy L wagon, 2.2L, auto, 148k. Head gaskets and timing belt replaced prior to purchase. Plugs are new NGK V-Power, wires are new O'Reilly Import Direct wires (high dollar OE equivalent they say) Now onto the problem... Here recently the car has developed a rather severe miss. Originally I was getting a code for Torque Converter Circuit malfunction, along with 3 & 4 miss. Drained tranny fluid, changed filter, cleaned up valve body, and the tranny code hasn't returned. But now the miss is so bad I can't even drive the car. It won't even get out of it's own way... stalling, stumbling, bucking. Starts and idles fine (well, still has a noticeable miss to it) but put a load to it and that's where the problem really starts. It has happened fairly recently and snowballed into what it is, at first it was just a slight stumble at highway speeds. I've checked oil for coolant and vice versa, sprayed all over the engine compartment with ether to check for vacuum leaks, disconnected injectors one by one to see how it affected idle quality (it does affect it on ANY injector), disconnected hose that feeds IAC from intake (killed car), checked spark from coil while at idle (jumped the gap between wire and coil), checked marks on cam gears to see if cams are still in time (looked good). Like I said, I have NO idea what this is going on but it's damn frustrating. Maybe the fact that it's gotten way worse over the span of a couple weeks can clue somebody in on something and help me know where/what to check... I'm at your mercy!!! Haha, but in all seriousness any help and/or input is greatly appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Check your plugs again, I had a bad valvecover leak that filled up the spark plug holes with oil in no time causing bad misfire. Also check and or clean your mass air sensor or map sensor/other air metering devices, these can cause funky issues if malfunctioning. Also get a junkyard coil pack and give that a shot... Or get one from someone on here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tharder1371 Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 Thanks for the tips, I'll get to lookin at it tomorrow when I'm not so frustrated with it... Now here's me thinkin out loud... I had to change the passenger side CV recently and I really didn't start getting any of this trouble until after I changed it. Not the misfire, not the P0740 code it all started with, nothing. All I went near when doing that job was dropping the exhaust to get to the roll pin in the CV and removing the intake tube to try and have a route at the roll-pin from the top. That would just lead to a vacuum leak and I've sprayed enough stuff all over that engine bay that I would've thought I'd have caught a leak by now. Anything else I could've screwed up by removing the tube or dropping the exhaust? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 There is a speedometer sensor down on the trans that some people mess up after changing the shafts. Also O2 sensors and wiring harnesses could have been damaged. I want to say its coil related. I heard people saying these were wasted spark system, and one coil fires both sides reguardless of the plug that actually needs to fire. Here is a diagram yanked off of google. Top coil bank would affect cyls 3-4. Get ye a coil. If you live near me I have one you could try/buy. http://www.porcupine73.com/pics/diagrammatics/subaru-firing-order1.gif Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tharder1371 Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 tr00b, thank you for your replies. I'm from KS, otherwise I'd take ya up on the offer of trying the coil out. I did order one from the local O'Reilly Autoparts, should be here saturday. I did tinker a little today, just looking hard at electrical connectors and hoses to see if anything jumped out at me. WOuldn't ya guess it, nothing... Took the intake hose/tube/whatever you call it off to clear up some space for a better view. Put it back on and the car acted better, but still sputtered/stalled at 2500-3000rpm and wouldn't go past. Checked ignition wires for any signs of oil leaking into the plug hole, didn't see or feel anything. Right now, I'm taking the night away from it before it drives me to the insane asylum. I'll probably wait til Saturday to try the coil. Ordered an ignitor too, just in case... Any other ideas out there for me to try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tharder1371 Posted October 20, 2012 Author Share Posted October 20, 2012 Alright, so I'm pretty sure I figured it out... tried a new coil and ignitor on it today to no avail. Thought about it a bit and came to the conclusion it had to be in the timing so pulled off the crank pulley and this is what I find... http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/tuck_the_great/IMG_20121020_132219_946.jpg Cams are still in time with each other but the crank has advanced about 3 teeth. These are some other pics of the damage. I'm thinking I'll at least have to replace the pulley/balancer and the woodruff key. Is the groove in the crank snout too far gone to do anything with or is there enough there I can put it back together and get through the winter? Any ideas on a fix if not? There's a gal selling a 93 Impreza with the 1.8L for cheap, can that motor swap right over and would I be better off doing that? http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/tuck_the_great/IMG_20121020_143108_912.jpg http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y285/tuck_the_great/IMG_20121020_143039_917.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 oohh... dang. Sorry for the mis-diagnosis. Honestly, this is beyond my expertise. I would say you would need to repair the keyway but don't have a good way to do so, beyond JB weld... I hope someone with more expertise will chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 replace the key, the crank sprocket, crank pulley and the bolt. put it back together and torque it to 140 ft. lbs and drive on. the tightening of the bolt is in the opposite direction from the wear. line it up correctly and torque it you should be good. as proven by your failure, the key does not hold the crank sprocket in place, it only lines it up until you torque the bolt. then the bolt does all the work. replace the parts and drive on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tharder1371 Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 johnegg, thanks for your reply. I bought a new key and balancer. The sprocket didn't have any damage so I re-used it. I re-assembled everything, making sure to get the proper torque on the bolt. Got it started up and took it for a quick spin around town. It ran and drove like the day I got it, no miss or stumble or any of that B.S. To say I was relieved is a bit of an understatement. The only thing I noticed was the idle was high (1200-1500 rpm). It went down after a bit of driving. Finally got to get out on the highway with it. It started bucking once I got to about 75 mph or so. Back in town, it did alright at lower speeds. By the time I got home, it wasn't as bad as before but it's heading back to where it was in all of it's go-nowhere glory. I verified the timing was still on (visual on all marks at 12 o'clock) when I got home (it is). No CELs popped up either. I'm out of ideas, I have no clue what to do now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 id revisit that timing sprocket. when i bought mine, the PO had apparently done the timing belt and water pump (but no seals) and didnt get the main pulley on all the way. the timing sprocket worked its way towards the front of the shaft, hitting its tabs on the knock sensor. i had misfire codes for weeks until i finally figured it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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