dark_thorns Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 i'm trying to replace my cv axles on my 98 bd, and i got the driver side of without a hitch. but the passenger side is not being so complying. the pin holding the cv axle to the inner stub shaft is placed in the most useless place of all time, above the first catalytic converter. i was wondering if anyone knows of a trick that i'm just not seeing that doesn't involve having to take of the front of the exhaust. changing out cv axles should not be this difficult. -.- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 Something about taking out air filter housing and air intake tube and tackle it from the top. Does that help? I'm not a 3rd gen guy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dark_thorns Posted September 24, 2012 Author Share Posted September 24, 2012 interesting, i'm gonna have to try that. if that works you just saved me so much time and stress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted September 24, 2012 I Donated Share Posted September 24, 2012 Its nearly impossible to do from the top. You can't really get enough swing iwth the hammer. if you have a long enough punch, you can line it up just right -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilverGSX Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 I was able to do both sides from the bottom without much trouble. Just gotta get it at the right angle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted September 24, 2012 Share Posted September 24, 2012 i use a 3/16 inch punch taped into a socket on lots of extensions to reach from above. the hammer swing is not an issue then, as mentioned. note which way the axle is aligned. if it is 180 degrees off you will never get the pin back in. one side has a slight indent around the roll pin hole. it does not matter which way is up, you can drive it in or out from either side, but you need to keep the stub and the axle the same. (the indent may make it a little easier to start the pin, find the hole if you did not start the pin with the axle off the car.) on reassembly, i start the pin into the hole on the inner cup and have both the hole in the axle stub and the pin pointing up. once you get the splines started you can rotate them both together to line up for the long extension set up. to drive in the pin, i usually reverse the extensions and discard the socket so the pin is riding inside the square hole to set it. once the extension bottoms out on the cup, i reverse it again to finish setting the pin. it helps to have the extension joints / connections taped together and it helps when you take the tape off if you have folded over at least a corner of the tape so you have a starting point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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