Skyguardian Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 looks like I have the same crack on my front driver side disc ... I was wondering if it was pad deposit or not so I did 2 bed-in with no real effects ... The vibrations will go away is I brake harder but they come back if I brake normally .. Now I know why ...... my brake setup is stoptech powerslot rotors front and rear + stoptech brake pad all around ... and the brake started to vibrate after 15 000 miles or so .. I'm a bit disapointed really ... I don't race the car and I'm not that hard on my brakes either .. This setup is about a year and a half old ... I guess that I will change my front disc and pads for some stoptech cryo-stop blank and hawk ceramic pads or hps ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 brake ducts are much cheaper that's my 2 cents.. you can ditch the foglights, it's not like you'll have your fog lights on anyways Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I bought a set of DBA4000's thinking they would be orders of magnitude better than the centric premiums I was using. Like most of the other expensive lessons this year, there was no magic. If you brake hard and often, eventually you'll get fade. When the DBA's finally crack all the way thru, I'll go back to the centric stuff. And, I'll make the brake ducting mod. With regards to OP's original ?, I use to have a FWD turbo car that fried the driver's side tire so often, the tire store always had one on order for me. After a year or two of this, the brakes started acting up. I took it into the shop for a look see, and the mechanic said I needed new rotors. I called BS, so he brought out the box with my rotor in it. They were stumped as to why it had not exploded at some previous point. The disk had a crack nearly the full circumference of the hub, and there was a perfect outline of the brake pad on the rotor traced by a crack. I wish I could find the photo of it :-) Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nm Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 I've had a few rotors get cracks going to the end of the rotor, but never that bad. In my experience, expensive rotors don't really last longer (and certainly not pro-rated), just get the cheapest rotors you can find, ideally made in a first world country and treat them as a consumable. And yes, ducting would help. Our brakes get damn hot, I've faded carbotech XP-10s, which do up to like 1600 degrees (admittedly, it was hard). This happened though: http://notajetta.com/lgt/2012-05-06_15-59-14_155s.jpg That was probably heat related as I bought them from XenonK and proceeded to track the shit out of them more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fahr_side Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 LOL. I was looking at your disk for minutes wondering what that line was, then I noticed your wheel was cracked. Doh. Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drogos Posted February 23, 2013 Share Posted February 23, 2013 +1 on centric. I am on my 3 set on 2nd car. Held up at the track incredibly well and for the price these are just unbelievable. Get painted hat version. After 3 years, driven all year long in chicago, paint still holds so no ugly rust. My favorite set up so far is centrics with ebc yellow. there you have it, I was lookign for some info on brake ducts .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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