Tr00b Posted September 20, 2012 Author Share Posted September 20, 2012 Vid with the dash setup... Works pretty good. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMtCqUlUgR0]Subaru Wagon - YouTube[/ame] Pics: http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/GhettoGothCowboy/Latesummer2012067_zpsd4780adb.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/GhettoGothCowboy/Latesummer2012058_zps95d76c18.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/GhettoGothCowboy/Latesummer2012057_zps0516eb2a.jpg http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c196/GhettoGothCowboy/Latesummer2012052_zpsb2dffeee.jpg The Big 3 usually is not needed unless high amperage accessories are added. Many people just put a fat cable to the battery and a chassis ground by the component, but the actual ground from chassis to battery is pencil thin, creating heat/resistance/voltage drops and in extreme cases starting fires/blowing things up. I've done this due to big stereos but never for just normal driveability though... Too broke for stereo stuff now... When I do it, its going to be $3000 whole car torn apart trophy winner, or nothing. Kaz, most of those features don't work for me at all. I imagine I need to get the full version of Torque to get any functionality out of it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted September 25, 2012 Author Share Posted September 25, 2012 Small update. Maybe this is the wrong place for a blog like thread, but here it is... Shifting issue: The video above was taken one day after lubing the cable. Since, the cable action has gotten way better. Clutch cable was hanging up so bad that the clutch was literally "hanging" in midair. I noticed that if I launched the car it would only grab if the clutch pedal was dumped. Similarly, for fast shifting, you had to stomp, wait, shift to the clutch to get it to yank the cable through, which... forced you to drive very slow as to not grind/jerk the car all over the place. I had my little bro press the clutch and saw it myself... After some lube has worked in to the cable, the car drives normally, if not GREAT. This is a major, major, improvement!!! Cold start problem: Suddenly having a problem getting the car to start when cold. If it does start, it only hits on a few cylinders. Chug, chug, chug chug, die, or nothing at all. Usually takes 15-20 seconds to get it going... Don't know what the heck at the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 Update: Threw code P0301 cyl 1 misfire. I had experienced hard starting multiple times over the last few weeks. Today the car had several heavy misfires. On my way back from work, the car was running rough(er) than usual. CEL came up 2 miles from the house. Google says replace all ignition parts. Done... Google says check spark plug boots for oil. There is a pretty severe amount of oil coming out of cyl #1 by the battery. Oh crap. This may be where 3 quarts of oil since I bought it left since about a month and a half ago.. (car never leaked a drop while sitting that I noticed). haven't had a chance to look up how to fix that but I assume its a PITA as I had a hard time reaching the spark plug boot, which puked oil when I undid it... Based on how bad it was running (just today it affected it while driving) Its a showstopper... :( I assume its part of a valvecover gasket but I didn't find anything specific enough to be searchable on the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Valvecover gasket and spark plug cleanup fixed a great deal. The engine is much smoother and the power delivery was immediately improved, oil consumption (4 quarts in 2500 miles) stopped and fuel economy has improved significantly. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fixing-valvecover-leak-194657.html I rarely, if ever grind the transmission now and everything works better. The clutch still is flighty on engagement, thinking about replacing the cable. I've had an exhaust leak at the mid pipe since I bought the car. This has gotten more annoying and will have to be fixed soon for sanitys sake. The popping from the front is a bad strut mount. I wanted to lift the car with a Forester suspension but I enjoy the little bit of handling I have too much to mess with that, so the lifted idea is out. Jeep on mud terrains does me for that heavy duty crap anyway. The struts have never been replaced, 150k... I assume they should be replaced, but because of money constraints, just replacing the strut mount is probably whats going to happen. The speedometer is also still broken. Torque app idea flopped worse than new Coke... Not sure if its my phone, the chinese devices, or the stupid app. Got used to rolling without a speedo now anyway. This is definitely a love/hate relationship... I am too big of a guy in too small of a car, some days it drives me completely nuts, especially if I'm getting in and out alot... I also kick myself for not buying a turbocharged ANYTHING... I've wanted a turbo car for years and years but its getting downright stupid now that I haven't bought one, because I still think about it daily. Being poor is not fun. It does drive nice and minus the size is comfortable, and gets good fuel economy. I also imagine it will get around well in the winter. There is security in that, at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 I JUST BARELY beat a wanked out diesel truck today on the two lane squeeze to one merge onto the highway. Truck was rolling coal and tearing tires... But it was pulling a gooseneck trailer with an excavator on it... I'd guess I had a 10-12,000lb handicap... During this special olympics event, I missed a shift to 5th gear after bumping the rev limiter off of 4th (accelerating). Instead of 5th somehow I end up going into 3rd, dumping clutch... I imagine thats somewhere around 9-10k RPM that the drivetrain pushed through the motor... No idea why it didn't blow up, it did NOT sound good. I literally heard the tach needle max out against the stopping pin. A big part of me wishes it blew up... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tr00b Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 So lately I've been chasing a knocking sound in the motor which was there before the overrev. I poured 4 more quarts in it since I replaced the valvecovers. Dropped the oil yesterday, even though I only poured it in the day before... Put fresh Rotella 10/30 in it with a filter. It seems to have gotten slightly better but still is obvious when cold and sometimes while accelerating I hear what sounds like rod noise. I am going to break the bank and fix the exhaust noise. In my frustration, I went and test drove a turbodiesel truck, which was outrageously loud and expensive... Its obvious to me that I MUST have a turbocharged vehicle, and that I should go ahead and do it so I can get it off the bucket list... Cause I tell ya, I don't know what it is but I ****ing need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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