travgag Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 So after doing headgaskets on my 97 2.5 legacy outback, the rod bearings went and blew the rod through the block, so the motor is a write off, the 97 has, 246 000 k and the 95, 277 000k So my 95 2.2l is going to be a motor donor, and il scrap the car, but keep as much as i can, like tail lights head lights, some modules, anything else i should keep ? are the racks the same ? because on the 97, it seams like it clunks a little bit, but with it running i think it tightens up, Now il change the oil pan, and valve cover gaskets since that needs to be done, i dont know when the water pump has been done, or if its ever been, should i change it out ? one last thing i need to make sure i can fix, is the 97 has a leaky gas tank when i filled it full for the first time, looked like it came from ontop of the tank, anyone encountered this, im going to open up the access and check it out, hopefully it might only be a rotten line thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Definitely change your water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylormac1993 Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 You're scaring me bro.... I'm working on a HG rebuild for a 98 Legacy Outback. =/ Anyway, only throw away what you need to throw away for now. Save the whole car if you can. If you don't need parts off of it and nobody wants to buy any parts off of it, then scrap it. That's what I'd do if I had the space anyways. I had a Cavalier that I needed to do an engine swap in. I got a motor, rebuilt it, and ended up having to scrap the car before it was done. I stole the tires (on steelies), battery, radiator, and the freshly rebuilt motor off of it. I just recently sold the motor for $100 more than I paid for it, and I have someone coming to look at the rims and tires every couple weeks or so. In retrospect, I should've stolen the MAF sensor off of it too, because those ain't cheap new and I knew it worked. I would've parted out the whole car if I had the time, but I needed it gone. What I'm getting at is, it depends on your level of patience, your other car's needs, and how much space you have to store it. Can you keep really big stuff like a radiator and an intake manifold (or the whole car even), or are you confined to a small space? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 No need to scrap the car if it's in decent condition. Just swap your 2.2 into that car & call it a day. I'd replace all seals/gaskets & water pump. I replaced the oil pump because I'm a bit paranoid but 22E's oil pump is sufficient. Save your 25D heads because you may need them in the future plus you won't get too much for them. 22E will plug in with no issues but check the wiring to make sure. I thought my 22E would plug in but it turns out that I ended up purchasing a "California Emissions" engine & a few pins on the harness connector were in different locations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 yea, no need to be scared, depends of if the car has been over heated, i think thats why the bearings gave out, and im going to take the alternator and all the sensors off that motor, not sure if the one set of valves got hit when the rod let go, id like to keep the entire car, il see if anyone whants the tranny and diff, il keep the rad and stuff like that, i can store that in the garage, ill keep everyone up to date on how it goes, okay so il change the water pump, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvagnone Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 is the tranny and diff for a manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 no there both auto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOHCEJ22E1 Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 yea, no need to be scared, depends of if the car has been over heated, i think thats why the bearings gave out, and im going to take the alternator and all the sensors off that motor, not sure if the one set of valves got hit when the rod let go, id like to keep the entire car, il see if anyone whants the tranny and diff, il keep the rad and stuff like that, i can store that in the garage, ill keep everyone up to date on how it goes, okay so il change the water pump, The rod bearing let go because it lost its integrity by overheating. And most likely, the valves did not get hit because mine threw a rod (Rod #3) & no valves were bent. In fact, the engine was still in time & produced enough power to "limp" the car around when I started it after it popped. Some sensors you may not even need to unplug. Just unbolt them & remove them with the wiring harness (if you're removing that). Also, you can likely consider the coolant cross flow a loss (my rod almost snapped mine in 2.) If/when you get the 25D heads off, inspect them for damage (minuscule scores from the loose shrapnel in the oil during the time of the rod bearing disintegrating). Mine had surprisingly minimal damage. Why are you parting out the car? Just curious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 okay so il change the water pump, the rule of thumb here is to change the timing belt and everything it touches. but since the 95 is non-interference you don't really have to. but if any one of the pulleys fails next year you will be opening back up. so do everything including the cam seals and the cam cap o-rings, crank seal and reseal the oil pump (check the screws on the back side of the pump and replace the o-ring) all idlers, tensioner idler (but not the tensioner piston, you will have 2 to pick from and unless it is bad or leaking it will be fine) and the water pump. if the engine is oily i would replace the valve cover gaskets and the oil separator plate on the back of the block if it is plastic. since you have both cars, swap the power steering lines from the 95 ej22 into the 97. the support brackets will fit the ej22 heads . the 97 PS lines will will work but the support brackets do not match the heads. and you will need to swap the ej25 flex plate on the ej22 engine. the flex plate has to match the trans. this is a common mistake which usually requires pulling the engine again. when you pull the engine unbolt the AC bracket but not the coolant lines. when the time comes just flop the AC compressor out of the way. then flop it back after the install or while waiting to install the ej22. use theej25 AC bracket on the ej22 engine. keep as many of the small vac lines on the both engines as possible. that way you don't miss any connections on the engine. and you can see the lines floating around as a reminder to connect them. the things they connect to off of the engine should be a little more apparent. if you are a careful driver you will probably never need tail lights. but if the 95 is in ok shape you will eventually need : axles, hubs/knuckles/wheel bearings if the 95 has ABS. the steering rack is the same. so are the rear brakes, but used brakes, rotors and pads, are not very desirable if the car has been sitting any time at all. the drive shaft is the same but it is not a common fail point. but check both to see if one is tighter than the other. sun visors, glass, seats, carpet, center console, most of the interior will all swap but if yours are in good condition it may take a long time to need them. i would save the HVAC control, but yours may be better than the 95. the speedo/instrument cluster might be worth pulling. but it may not wrk in your car unless they both go up to the same number. some go to 140, some to 120 (mph). and if you feel energetic , the gas tanks will swap, but i don't like the job and would only do it if i had to. around here you have to remove the gas tank to scrap a car or you get a lower price. there is a common leak point on these car in the filler neck. it has a plastic cover, a shield, that traps dirt and stuff which rusts out the neck. you can see it if you remove the right rear wheel. you might pull it off and see if that is your leak. i would probably save the 95 filler neck . rear wiper motor, save or sell. head lights are pretty easy to store. door locks and the ignition lock cylinder, if you have the matching key. some one will want it even if you don't. that's enough for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 great stuff guys il save a tail light since one on the 97 is cracked, the poster steering sounds like enought work to do, the 97's original should be fine with the 22 motor ? il skip the brakes, their done, il skip the interior to much work and cant keep it all, and it wouldnt match. feeling energetic for the gas tank lol, dont you have to drop the rear fram with the diff to pull it out ? looks like it to me, DOHCEJ22 my motor is seized, lol wont even turn over but yea il be parting it out in the next few weeks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylormac1993 Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 The rod bearing let go because it lost its integrity by overheating. And most likely, the valves did not get hit because mine threw a rod (Rod #3) & no valves were bent. In fact, the engine was still in time & produced enough power to "limp" the car around when I started it after it popped. Some sensors you may not even need to unplug. Just unbolt them & remove them with the wiring harness (if you're removing that). Also, you can likely consider the coolant cross flow a loss (my rod almost snapped mine in 2.) If/when you get the 25D heads off, inspect them for damage (minuscule scores from the loose shrapnel in the oil during the time of the rod bearing disintegrating). Mine had surprisingly minimal damage. Why are you parting out the car? Just curious. Shit... Mine overheated a lot... Edit: Why do the bearings fail specifically? It seems to me like heat wouldn't matter, unless it warped them and then it wouldn't move smoothly at all (so I could feel it by hand cranking it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twisty Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 when you heat up metal and let it cool down slowly, it changes the hardness of the metal. bearings have a specific tensile strength, heating them up and letting them cool erratically ruins that strength. same with any tools as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted August 17, 2012 Author Share Posted August 17, 2012 yup, if you ever welded a wrench you will notice it will snap, to maintain or create strength you need to quench steel in cold water after heating, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 you should also replace all the oil any time you over heat the engine. cooking the oil is really bad for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taylormac1993 Posted August 18, 2012 Share Posted August 18, 2012 I'm totally screwed then.... I got the car pretty hot and let it cool down, but didn't replace the rod bearings. All this work for nothing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted August 20, 2012 Author Share Posted August 20, 2012 I'm totally screwed then.... I got the car pretty hot and let it cool down, but didn't replace the rod bearings. All this work for nothing. So you allready did the Hg job ? hope it lasts man let us know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted August 21, 2012 Author Share Posted August 21, 2012 So the motor is practically pulled, last drive to work with the old 95 legacy, sad day, oh well motor lives on ! Now for scrap il keep the cat's ? how much should i get for them ? there original, and also anyone need something off this car ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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