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needing a new long block


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What happened exactly? How do you know your 22T shorblock is ruined? Did you throw a rod?

 

You will be hard pressed to find a complete stock 22T longblock to swap in. If you are doing a wrx swap you will need a bit more than the engine. You will also need the ecu, wiring harness, etc.

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I have never done a compression test so your numbers don't mean much to me. What are they supposed to be at? I would think as long as you didn't crack the block then you can rebuild your 22T. As long as your piston bores aren't chewed up and need to be sleeved I would imagine you can replace your crank if it is damaged and/or your bearings.
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I would pay someone whose experienced in subaru motors to rebuild it. most ppl who rebuild subarus themselves have issues after. Even heard horror stories of machine shops who don't do a lot of subarus. With compression like 30 in all 4 cylinders it could be something simple like timing or the rings are just worn out .I would say something is broken if one cylinder is considerably less than others. Eiher way I wouldn't try reassembling myself, I've rebuilt fords but splitting a subaru block and putting it back together is beyond my skills or confidence
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Okay thats news to me, I did not know you could order a refreshed 22t block. How much is it? From who? I know someone who would want one. I priced a complete rebuild once at around 3800, if I were gonna spend that much I would go forged pistons, rods and a valve job and porting. For me it was cheaper/more bang fr the buck to buy a used jdm ej20g with standalone engine management. An easy 270hp on the factory turbo. No emissions to deal with here.
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That's a steal and should go for it, but you are planning on ising your heads? Have you considered the cost of machining them? Probably needs a valve job also..... to do it right. Also oil pump, water pump and all timing idlers, cam seals, crank seals, new oil/water hoses. Your looking at 3-4000$ easy. I've been there done that. I have a friend with an SS and he tries to piece his motors back together himself. He usially ends up doing it the right way eventually, after failing over and over again.
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You're making me nervous usliberty! I have a spare 22T that I would like to swap into my second gen eventually. I am planning on a fairly simple builld using the stock heads and a 20G ecu. The block only has about 150k and I am not planning on messing with the internals. I rebuilt the motor on my SS and it is running fine, so maybe I'll be all right, lol.

 

I forgot, did you do anything to your used 20G or did you just drop it in?

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I did not touch the internals but did everything else. Oil pump, water pump, idler bearings, timing belt, cam seals, crank seals, cam cover gaskets and replaced every hose/clamp but the oil drain from the turbo. Sure enough the only hose clamp I didn't replace leaked and I'm gonna have to pull the turbo to get to it. What a pita! Exactly my point when building a motor, not to cut corners. Murphys law states anything that can go wrong, will go WRONG. happens to be the story of my life also so im probably more paranoid about things like that.

Other than that I ported the exhaust manifold and installed an ACT streetlite flywheel. it runs like a BA from hell, I have a little tuning to do before I crank the boost from 13 to 16/18psi. It runs away from stock STI's on 13 psi. Also weighed it at the scales with full leather interior and full tank it was 3020lbs. About 600lbs less than a STI and 200 lbs less than my old SS. Those sunroofs are heavy as hell. I just have dings and dents to work out before I get it painted. It idles absolutely quietly, sounds like a new motor. The ported manifold gives it an extra deep tone and more poppy power pulses from the exhaust. Its such a sleeper that I don't get the waves from other sti drivers like I used to with the SS. Then again the police don't give me a sscond look either.

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Yeah that's a drive, shipping would cost less. That's a cheap price for for a complete longblock, where did you manage to find that? I paid 650$ for my low mileage ej20g. After putting all new parts on it I had 1300$ into the motor and my ecm was new at the time and I paid 2500$ for it. All that was about the same as a rebuild for my 22t (not forged either) but now I have nearly 300 hp with a factory turbo. All I need is some bigger injectors and turbo and I could be at 400hp pretty easy. Only reason I haven't done this is cuz I'm afraid of breaking the 5 spd.
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Looks legit, keep us updated but it sounds like it doesn't include pumps or bearings. Are you just gonna reuse old ones?

Yeah 3-400hp is a big difference. I dont think im unrealistic though, just weary.I am very conservative when it comes to launching and shifting. Usually I drive slower than the retirees up here. I've built the rest of the car to Handle it as long as I don't abuse it. Outfrontmotorsports.com is where i initially got a tune. Hes been building turbo subarus in sandrails for over 15 years. Hes got the fastest two seater sandrail in the dunecrosses, which is like an autocross course in the big boy dunes. He gets about 600hp from the 2.0's in a 1200lb rail. He smokes everyone by ten seconds year after year. I will also have to upgrade fuel rails, but I will run closer to 350 until the 6spd swap. Maybe next year if funds exist and my gun hobby doesn't take over. I am planning on running a meth kit or an e85 mixture to get to 400 and a 6 spd swap.

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maybe its me but having all 4 cylinders with low compression sounds funny, i mean i have seen one or two that are next to each other with low compression, but all 4??? make sure there not just gas washed out or other issues, maybe it jumped timing. check before you condem that motor.
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http://i1018.photobucket.com/albums/af306/solow970/ResizedImage_1346262741378.jpg

 

http://i1018.photobucket.com/albums/af306/solow970/ResizedImage_1346262723185.jpg

 

http://i1018.photobucket.com/albums/af306/solow970/ResizedImage_1346262703075.jpg

 

 

let the rebuild start

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