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Upgrades vs Lifespan and Reliability


dahoseman

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What would be your recommendation for a gas only turbo?

For what power range? Are we talking about what the OP is looking for, or what you're looking for? ;)

 

On the topic of BNR16Gs, a very reputable member has one BNIB for sale.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Just a general max out the stock block (safely) 91 octane turbo

I think that's a bit of a contradiction in terms eh? ;) Judging by the shitfight raging in that other thread, the maximum a stock block can deal with is yet to be agreed upon. Then you want a safety margin... how wide a safety margin?

 

I personally feel a stock block can deal with quite large turbos if painstakingly tuned and maintained. Take a look at our very own NSFW with his stock-location GT3076R for a success story. However, the margin for error is certainly diminished, as the pile of broken pistons will testify. If you're not as careful or talented, or perhaps even lucky as he is, be ready to join the piston broke club. If I were going to go that route I might choose a GT3071R for a little more flexibility / response and a few less skidmarks in my underwear. A GT3076R street car is not to be taken lightly. Can you consider a car that really wants weekly logs or LVs taken, daily oil-checking etc. a DD? For some yes, for some it's going to be a deal-breaker. I think the OP falls into the latter category.

 

I really like the look of the EFR7163 that Jeff Perrin cobbled together, but not the task of fitting it into our engine bay! ATP is now offering stock-location GTX30R models which deserve a good look.

 

So many choices! :spin:

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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Just a general max out the stock block (safely) 91 octane turbo

 

Maxing out the stock block means a knock event is more likely and more than likely catastrophic. If you really want to make big power with the stock block its e85, its not a DD, or you are putting together a pre-flight checklist.

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...or you are putting together a pre-flight checklist.

Nicely put. :lol:

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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I guess I should explain my use of the word "max". What i'm trying to say is the gray area where you are over 300hp but less then 400. The 80% survival area is what i'll call it. Around 350hp on e85 is the safe max from what i've heard. FWIW, I hope you edit reason was a joke ;)
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I guess I should explain my use of the word "max". What i'm trying to say is the gray area where you are over 300hp but less then 400. The 80% survival area is what i'll call it. Around 350hp on e85 is the safe max from what i've heard.

Well, opinions are going to vary but I do believe survivability drops rapidly after about 350whp as you say, and using high-octane fuels certainly helps surviving mistakes and accidents. I really don't mind discussing this, but we are probably drifting away from the OP's focus. ;)

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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haha, quite a discussion on here. Pretty entertaining.

 

Like I've said, I'm not interested in "peak" numbers at all. I see people's dyno graphs and and they all have "###whp!" ..... except it's teetering at the top of a mountain peak and the car is gutless below 4000rpm. I would much rather have 250 usable hp than 350 peak hp. I guess I should really say that I'm just practical and goal oriented with my mods. If I'm in creeping traffic and I need to make a quick lane change, I want to step on the gas and move rather than downshift, gas it, and wait for power and boost to spool.

 

My modifications and especially turbo considerations are focused on power produced at the 3000rpm range, which is typical driving rpm for me. The car will still have power at higher rpm no matter what, but I'm not terribly concerned with that.

 

Anytime someone tells me they have a 400whp turbo'd car, my first question is what torque it produces at 3000rpm. It's the same reason the old E36 M3's were faster than cars with considerably higher power ratings.

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I will be watching your build as we have like minded goals. I am currently at Stage2 with very minimal mods. ( DP+CBE+e-tune ) Stage 2 is nice, but it is not enough for me. First thing in the morning, when things are nice and cool, everything is nice and responsive but it doesn't take long for things to heat up to where there is a noticeable decrease in snap and acceleration. Now I am looking for ways to keep things cooler but while I'm at it, why not add a bit more power. I am moving slow with my mods, like you, I don't want to be wrenching on it every weekend.... With a wife, three kids, 2 part-time business', and a full time job, I don't have the luxury to deal with persistent vacuum leaks, weird noises, or other nuisances. With that said, I love driving my car and have had it since I bought it new in 2007. It just rolled over 40k miles and I plan on keeping it for a very long time. I am also looking for lasting mods that will improve the driving experience, but not require weekly/daily maintenance to keep going.

 

I wish you the best of luck and will be watching closely. :)

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Understood. I stand by the list of parts I posted. Add a 3-port boost control solenoid to that. E85 is like magic pixie dust for early torque, if it's available.

There are twin-spool setups that will do a little earlier spool but they'll cost 2 or 3 times what my list will.

 

Your challenge will be in getting the tune you want to maximize low-end torque and response rather than focus on peak numbers.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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I'm not consistently in areas with E85. That also requires a lot of fuel flow, so I'd probably have to upgrade pump/injectors.

 

So to veer off my original topic .....

A note on the 'destructive' powers of E85 that have been common rumors for years. There have been various controlled and personal experiments with MODERN fuel systems (since 10% ethanol became common). Everything from leaving seals and components sitting in pure ethanol to people just running their cars on E85 to see what happens for a few years. It seems that there isn't much difference in corrosive or solvent properties between 10% and 50-85%. Modern fuel components seem to tolerate E85 just fine without any signs of corrosion or dissolving. The only real problem is in vehicles that can't keep up with the high flow. E85 has lower BTU's and just needs to flow more fuel to create the same boom.

 

And back to the original topic...

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I'm gonna post this devastating power plot so that the OP can see something fun and low/midrange, and unsub as the riginal post has been covered. Else has been covered. Good luck with build. Make sure to make thread and PM me so I can see what you end up doing! Good luck and enjoy your car.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=95964&stc=1&thumb=1&d=1319109080

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Thanks guys, little girl. 7lbs 10.8oz, 22" long with a head of hair and long nails :wub:

 

Spiderpig build is... Nuts :lol: I think it defines what not to do to a stock block and expect OEM longevity. The wife said "you can't replace your motor till you blow the one you have up."

 

Copy that honey. Copy that.

 

Aaaand back OnTopic... There is a reason the OBXT is stage1. If stage2 was catalytic legal in CA it would be stage2 but since it is not, stage1. I can't have a car that the wife needs to LV, RR, check the IC for leaks, is not strictly smog legal, etc. As it is, my suggestion to get an OBXT means ANYTHING (and I do mean anything) that goes wrong with the car is MY FAULT.

 

I think if your car in any way effects your wife/girlfriend, that is something to take into account for longevity as well. Whats peace at home worth to you? Not much to me apparently but I am working on it.

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Thanks guys, little girl. 7lbs 10.8oz, 22" long with a head of hair and long nails :wub:

 

Spiderpig build is... Nuts :lol: I think it defines what not to do to a stock block and expect OEM longevity. The wife said "you can't replace your motor till you blow the one you have up."

 

Copy that honey. Copy that.

 

Aaaand back OnTopic... There is a reason the OBXT is stage1. If stage2 was catalytic legal in CA it would be stage2 but since it is not, stage1. I can't have a car that the wife needs to LV, RR, check the IC for leaks, is not strictly smog legal, etc. As it is, my suggestion to get an OBXT means ANYTHING (and I do mean anything) that goes wrong with the car is MY FAULT.

 

I think if your car in any way effects your wife/girlfriend, that is something to take into account for longevity as well. Whats peace at home worth to you? Not much to me apparently but I am working on it.

 

Congratulations! That's a good healthy baby. I trust both baby and mom are good?

 

Good advise on the wife's car! :cool:

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