urdrwho Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Subbie isn't used that often and it sat out last night in a heavy, heavy rain. Today I got in to move the subbie and got a CEL. It is a P325 - knock sensor. I'm wondering if some rain water in the wiring or do I really have a knock sensor problem. I know that the problem wasn't there during the last shutoff. If it is the knock sensor, can it be replaced with removing the intake? Seems like a heck of a lot of trouble just to replace a sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrumphicus Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 It's not really.. I just pulled the clamp at the engine side and pushed it up out of the way. It was still a bitch because I dropped the bolt and it got stuck in a little cavity below the sensor location, but otherwise it was one screw, the bolt and some finagling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 It looks like one of those areas that you need 10 inch fingers and skinny hands. Maybe it will be one of those times my 12 inch hemostats can come in handy? I'm not sure if it is the sensor or the connector. Last fall while pulling different connectors and cleaning them, I messed up the knock sensor connector. It hasn't caused any problems but it could be that re-rigged connector. I'm thinking of stripping the ends and installing a new male spade/female connector. They don't give you mush wire to work with and of course it is at the rear of the engine, directly in the middle. It seems to be only one wire going from the knock sensor and I wonder how it makes the complete circuit? It's not really.. I just pulled the clamp at the engine side and pushed it up out of the way. It was still a bitch because I dropped the bolt and it got stuck in a little cavity below the sensor location, but otherwise it was one screw, the bolt and some finagling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 I didn't need to remove anything to replace my knock sensor. Just a long socket extension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrumphicus Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 I guess I needed to get it out of the way because the cable was zip tied to another group of wires and didn't allow me the length needed to pull it out. I ended up disconnecting the old one and cutting the wires to pull it through the zip tie, and was only able to do that with the intake moved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gergeek Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 Just replaced mine Thursday, IMO moving the intake out of the way helps. There is barely any room to begin with. Used a ten inch extension and it came out in a flash. The trickiest part was bolting it back in and not loosing the bolt in the engine monster haha....Ive read that over time the sensor can develop a crack which makes them malfunction. Also, try getting one from a junkyard first, got mine for a $1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrumphicus Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 The ebay knocks are now $12 brand new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shoe Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 As I remember it was easy removing the old one, but you don't quite have a straight on shot at installing the new one, and I was worried about cross threading it. I finally got it threaded in but as they said it would help if you had a trained racoon to hold the bolt in place for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricky santana Posted August 7, 2012 Share Posted August 7, 2012 http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t140121-knock-sensor-relocation.html I was struggling just like you then I did this over a year ago and no problems. Of course someone is going to flame this anyways.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted August 8, 2012 Author Share Posted August 8, 2012 Well what I did was take apart the connector and it was not making what I would consider a good connection. Stripped the wires and did some soldering. Started the car and no #325 CEL appeared at first but then after a bit of idling it reappeared. I noticed the CEL would come on whenever the RPM's went below 500. The car had not been run for about a 5 weeks, so I put my foot to the pedal and kept the idle up so it had a chance to clear its throat of what ever was in there making idle RPM drop below 400. Re-set the CEL, started the car, idle speed was normal and no CEL was thrown. I've stopped and started the car about 5 times and no CEL. I let it idle for a while and no CEL. Maybe that knock sensor wasn't picking up the vibrations and I had to knock some sense into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLou Posted August 8, 2012 Share Posted August 8, 2012 There is a great video on YouTube, A woman changes hers in 10 minutes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLou Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 Here it is. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14eS2R2L8aE]Subaru Knock Sensor - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 It's harder on the EJ25D then the EJ22 like others said it's hardly any room.. You know what sucked was when I dropped the damn bolt to the knock sensor more under the intake.. I ended up getting it but it took about an hour to fish it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrumphicus Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I did exactly that. Got my hand stuck under the throttle controls and dropped the bolt before I realized I should just take off the intake. Does .3L really make that much difference in space? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rallybrothers Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 Just be sure to not cross-thread the bolt when you install the new one. It should not be hard to put it in. and i like how the video ends with her connecting the wire to put it back together. I used a long extention and an extendy magnet! Those things come in handy when you drop bolts...nuts...washers...wrenches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1-3-2-4 Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I did exactly that. Got my hand stuck under the throttle controls and dropped the bolt before I realized I should just take off the intake. Does .3L really make that much difference in space? I think it's all emissions related stuff.. not so much that the motor is larger in displacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harrumphicus Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I started to cross-thread the bolt the first time I tried to put it back on.. It started out feeling like normal, and then got tough about a quarter inch in. Took me ages to get it back on the right track. Wiggling and poking the bolt for almost an hour it seemed (probably not, but in the military they say "perception is reality", so I'm sticking with that) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
urdrwho Posted August 9, 2012 Author Share Posted August 9, 2012 They didn't show her putting the bolt back in. In tight places the easy part is often removing the bolt, the hard part is getting it back into the hole. I did exactly that. Got my hand stuck under the throttle controls and dropped the bolt before I realized I should just take off the intake. Does .3L really make that much difference in space? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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