meier motor sports Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 you should do an align after a ball joint. but being as it is not an adjustable comp you will be just fine with out. unless an align was performed with a worn ball joint and the joint was causing an out of spec condition that was adjusted for, then the new ball joint should bring things back into spec. but again an align should be performed with a ball joint but not required in all honesty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Well, I get to join the club of another busted pinch bolt while working on replacing the ball joint. 2 years ago I went through hell on the passenger side separating the ball joint when I had to replace the axle over there, but was ultimately successful... and the hubris from that success led me to believe I could get the driver's side done in an afternoon. A few hours of soaking the whole assembly in PB Blaster, and frankly not all that much torque on the pinch bolt (no air tools) and POP... broken bolt. Max, I should have listened to you and bought a new knuckle. I'm extremely dubious that an easy-out will work here, so my current plan is to drill it out and replace with a bolt/nut as Meier recommended. IMHO it should have been built that way from the very beginning. Opinions on limping the car ~5 miles to the hardware store to pick up a new bolt and a fresh drill bit? I haven't done any work (other than PB soak) to remove the ball joint from the knuckle, and experience tells me it is still in there very VERY solidly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzztech13 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 Add me to the club! I put all new bushings in a new set of LCA's. Bought new Ball joints since the boots on my orig. ball joints were popped/leaking. Figured I'd do it all at the same time. Both sides, POP! Tried drilling out the shaft of broken bolt, broke an entire set of hardened drill bits. Chewed the hell out of the passenger side knuckle. So I've been driving the car around that way for about 2 weeks.... clueless what to do now. Um, help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmoore5 Posted July 2, 2015 Share Posted July 2, 2015 This why I prefer to separate the strut and the knuckle at the camber adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gto7419 Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Drill it out or get a new knuckle. Those are your options. If you are breaking bits, you're doing it wrong. For steel, gear down for a lower speed and use lube. Wd40 will suffice. If you use higher speeds when drilling, you will heat treat the metal and you will need to die grind it out with a carbide bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zzztech13 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 ugh...... thanks. my drill has one speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gto7419 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Always remember, heating and cooling is how we anneal or temper metal to make it harder. Once it's heat treated, only carbide or grinding wheels will break through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 ugh...... thanks. my drill has one speed. Wow, they still make drills like that ? You might be better off just sucking it up and buy spindles, mine was like $115 a few years back from the dealer. Use anti-seize compound on all nuts and bolts when installing them. Even lug nuts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashwinearl Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Add me to the club! I put all new bushings in a new set of LCA's. Bought new Ball joints since the boots on my orig. ball joints were popped/leaking. Figured I'd do it all at the same time. Both sides, POP! Tried drilling out the shaft of broken bolt, broke an entire set of hardened drill bits. Chewed the hell out of the passenger side knuckle. So I've been driving the car around that way for about 2 weeks.... clueless what to do now. Um, help! +1 new member of the broken pinch bolt club. This is the driver's side front. The ball joint was broken and we tried to replace with a new Moog one. We tried drilling it out but kept breaking bits in the bolt. At this point, do I, or more likely the mechanic I take it to, continue trying to drill out the bolt, or go for a new knuckle along with new ball joint? Can I get a hand on the part number? Are the symmetric, meaning same part no for right or left? 2005 LGT Wagon 5MT Front Left Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 +1 new member of the broken pinch bolt club. This is the driver's side front. The ball joint was broken and we tried to replace with a new Moog one. We tried drilling it out but kept breaking bits in the bolt. At this point, do I, or more likely the mechanic I take it to, continue trying to drill out the bolt, or go for a new knuckle along with new ball joint? Can I get a hand on the part number? Are the symmetric, meaning same part no for right or left? You can get a left side (driver side) knuckle for <$100 shipped on Ebay from a salvage yard. Or buy one local for about the same. The knuckles are not symmetric. If you do buy a salvage knuckle, you will have to get the pinch bolt and lower ball joint of it, too. I don't think you can buy these "new" from the dealer, but I could be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashwinearl Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 I found this one? http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2005_Legacy/HOUSING-FRONT-AXLE-LEFT/49238044/28313AG030.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dispatch20 Posted November 22, 2015 Share Posted November 22, 2015 Good deal! Fred Beans has one for sale on EBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUBARU-OEM-08-14-Forester-Front-Suspension-Knuckle-28313AG030-/151746322188?hash=item2354c91f0c:g:xckAAOSwu4BVpljx&vxp=mtr $150 isn't bad for new when used is around $85. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted February 4, 2016 Share Posted February 4, 2016 Definitely broke my pinch bolt as well while trying to replace my bad cv boot. Took it to a shop and had them drill it out. Turns out the ball joint was bad too so I had them put a Moog in. Not really the way I wanted that to go down. Whenever I decide to do the driver's side I'll do what Max said and buy a new knuckle. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 I could be wrong, but I don't think the new knuckle comes with a pinch bolt. So you might need to order the pinch bolt too, if you buy a new knuckle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashwinearl Posted February 6, 2016 Share Posted February 6, 2016 Pinch bolt came with new ball joint. I used Moog last time and one was in there. I had used a brand new knuckle joint too. Had I reused the old one, I would have drilled a through hole and use a nut bolt combo. The design of the pinch bolt enables the threads to corrode easily Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dishwasher Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Pinch bolt came with new ball joint. I used Moog last time and one was in there. I had used a brand new knuckle joint too. Had I reused the old one, I would have drilled a through hole and use a nut bolt combo. The design of the pinch bolt enables the threads to corrode easily Yeah that seems like a solid method too. Brought to you by Pfizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qckslvr Posted March 30, 2016 Share Posted March 30, 2016 Sorry to revive a dead thread, but I just joined the club...anyone find a better price than $134 before tax/shipping on a new knuckle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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