lingling1337 Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 The separator is $45 and the whole set, with tie rod pullers and pitman pullers, is $99. I was going to buy the separator to do my lca bushings. I could swing the whole set but I'd rather not drop additional money if I'll never need the other tools. Can anyone tell me if it's worth it to get these additional tools? I haven't done much extensive work on my car so I don't know if they'll come in handy. I would hate to buy just 1 tool then have to pay $30 a piece later when I need the other tools that come in the set. Thanks. Just for reference here's what I'm talking about. separator [ame=http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6297-Ball-Joint-Separator/dp/B0015PN010/]Amazon.com: OTC 6297 Ball Joint Separator: Automotive[/ame] front end kit [ame=http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6295-Front-End-Service/dp/B0002SRH7O/ref=pd_sim_auto_1]Amazon.com: OTC 6295 Front End Service Set: Automotive[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 Don't buy those. Why do you think you need them ? To seperate the LCA from the spindle a impact gun works the best followed by hitting the spindle next to the ball joint with a 5lb hammer. With all my tools. I paid the man the replace the ball joint. Its even cheaper to buy a spindle and new ball joint. Then pay the hours of labor to get the rusted old ball joint out. I just went down this path about 5 weeks ago. You still need a press or the $50 tool to remove the bushings. Then you still need an alingment. Just find a good shop, drop the car, pick it up when it's done. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbw Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 NO, they're not worth it and probably wont work, dont even bother... You need snipers ball joint tugger and thats it. I wouldn't do this again if I didn't have this tool. It pulls the ball joint out and will probably save you a few hours. I've used a modified method of what someone on here did and it sucked something awful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 Don't buy those. Why do you think you need them ? To seperate the LCA from the spindle a impact gun works the best followed by hitting the spindle next to the ball joint with a 5lb hammer. With all my tools. I paid the man the replace the ball joint. Its even cheaper to buy a spindle and new ball joint. Then pay the hours of labor to get the rusted old ball joint out. I just went down this path about 5 weeks ago. You still need a press or the $50 tool to remove the bushings. Then you still need an alingment. Just find a good shop, drop the car, pick it up when it's done. I don't have an impact gun and that would cost more than the $50 tool. I'm not replacing a ball joint, I'm dropping the LCA to have my bushings replaced. Shop quoted me 2 hours of labor, $170 to do the whole job. They'll charge an hour or less if I bring the LCAs in myself. I'd rather save the money. After looking around a bit I don't think I'll need the other tools in the near future, if I do I'll just rent them. I am gonna go with that 6297 though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 With all the times. I've done this type work I have never needed that tool. All you need is the 5lb hammer. After you get the car jacked up. Make sure you can break all the bolts loose before you remove any of them. If ones frozen, just tighten it up and have the shop do it. I have learned a impact gun makes quick work of the ball joint nut and keeps the BJ form spinning. Make sure you get all the cotter pin out. Use anti-sieze compound on all the nuts and bolts going back together. I even put it on the lug studs and nuts. PB Blaster helps to break the rust free when trying to remove things. I find the 5lb hammer on the spindle, ""after you put the ball joint nut back on a few threads "" works well (don't want to miss and hit the threads). It may take a few hits but it will pop free, you may have to pry the LCA down to check to see it its free. You'll figure it out. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sbw Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 thats basically the way I did mine. I used a 5lb hammer and a log splitting wedge on both sides to work it out slowly after I put the stud back through the lower control arm. the other side I used an air hammer for a while and it made the job a bit quicker but the tool is about $10 bucks and for how quickly and easily it works, why not. I mean I have impact gun, air compressor, air hammer, etc.. but not everyone does. If you dont have all that stuff it makes it extremely easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lingling1337 Posted July 6, 2012 Author Share Posted July 6, 2012 I guess I could man up and do it with a hammer but I think I am going to go with the separator tool. I know it'll work + never hurts to have another tool in the collection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 6, 2012 Share Posted July 6, 2012 I know what you mean about tools, I just bought a KD slide hammer off tooltopia.com. for the next rear hub assembly I'll be changing. That about completes my tools set. Well may be a roofing nailer, the shed need a new roof. Good luck with your control arms. BTW I just saw one of your other threads, I went to Hawk brake pads because they shed dust better then most others you'd normally buy. I get them from Mike at AZPinstalls.com you can get rotors and other stuff from him too. GREAT customer service. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gmachine Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Buy the tool. Makes the job less stressfull. I had an arm that would not come off that ball joint. Borrowed the tool the next day and 2 minutes later...pop! Off came the arm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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