SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 My timing belt is due in a few thousand miles and I have oil flying everywhere from somewhere in front of my motor. I looked underneath and saw oil coming from my timing cover. Ok. Most likely Cam or Crank Seals. They were done about 50k miles ago and it's a bit scary that they're probably leaking again, but que sera, sera. My problem is that it looks like someone was harsh with the car before me and hit some stuff. The front metal bits behind the bumper and under the rad is all mangled in one area. There is also a large dent in my oil pan (which doesn't seem to be leaking) In all of this, it looks like the bottom bolt holes for my timing cover were broken off. Is this extremely important? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 no problem. some folks run with out timing covers. i would just try to have them sit in place and not rattle. i have used a zip tie to hold some on. you just have to be carefull making the holes. and there may not be a lot of room for a drill with the engine in the car. cam and crank seals are one possibility but the oil pump seal and o-ring are another. but regardless of the cause, do everything. all the front seals for an ej22 will cost about $35 from the dealer (water pump gasket included, i think). less on line but you have to pay shipping. ej25 may be a little more. check the o-ring on the base of the oil fill pipe. all of mine leak there. the last one i did i used RTV. i was 45 minutes from the dealer and i did not want to wait. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 Will do. When I do the timing job, is the hydraulic tensioner on the list of "should do" bits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted June 8, 2012 I Donated Share Posted June 8, 2012 absolutely -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share Posted June 8, 2012 Just double checking. I love my leggy, but she's an expensive girl this month. Full timing job with seals, something to replace what used to be tires, and an MAF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travisbiechy Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 Just emphasizing how important it is to replace tensioner. I made the mistake of not changing it when I did my belt. It skipped timing on startup and what a pain it was to get it home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 8, 2012 Share Posted June 8, 2012 is the hydraulic tensioner on the list of "should do" bits? in my opinion, it depends on the year. the old style, the two piece style, 90 - 97ish, i say no, unless the piston is leaking or obviously bad. but you MUST change the idler that rides on it. the new style, one piece, 98ish - 04+, absolutely yes. replace it. so what year, model, miles, trans are we talking about, anyway? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 so what year, model, miles, trans are we talking about, anyway? It's a 95 L with 211k and the 5mt. The timing belt was done with the cam and crank seals around 45k miles ago Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 ok, so it is a non-interference engine. the tensioner is the old style 2 part type. replace the idler when doing the timing belt but not the piston unless it is leaking or damaged. depending on what you replaced last time i would replace everything else. if you did not do the water pump, do it this time, NOW if you are eager to stop the leaks. if you did not do the idlers, do them now. etc.the bearings in the idlers will not last forever. and the kits for these can be had on ebay (theimportexperts) for ~$135 shipped, water pump included. then you buy the seals from the dealer for $35 and you are good to go. then you drive it for 60k miles, and then do it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 I planned on doing the gates kit with the idlers and then also doing the water pump. I only got the car a few months ago. It came with a good work history, but the timing page was vague on whether or not they did the water pump. I thought the EJ22 was interference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Your particular EJ22E is non interference. Later models are. I think around 97 they became interference. Johnegg will set us straight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 Your particular EJ22E is non interference. This is the best news I've gotten all week. I love you guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 ok, so it is a non-interference engine. See? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingWittyAsAUsername Posted June 9, 2012 Author Share Posted June 9, 2012 I. Love. All. Of. You. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.