Danhall51 Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 So yesterday I was planning on doing the hogzaust mod out of boredom and curiosity, but as soon as I looked under the car Ive noticed very bad rust where the mufflers attatch to the Y-pipe. it got rusted into 1 piece basically and every bolt is covers pretty badly. I was wondering whats my options. if theres a way to clean the rust out, just leave the exhaust and hope nothing snaps, or upgrade to a full exhaust system. My car is a 2005 2.5i with 110,000 miles on it BTW. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 Mine's completely rusted from the flanges and starting to chip away. Hence why i have exhaust leak(s) Really nothing to do at this point if it's so badly rusted. New exhaust system! I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Spray them with PB Blaster. Worst case the bolts break, just buy some 3/8 nut's and bolts and washers from any hardware store and use them. That's basically what I did. In fact my 09 Spec B has no mufflers. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
That Guy 2-1 Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 PB blaster and heat. If that doesn't work, take a sawzal to the nuts and cut them off flush with the flange. Then get new nuts/bolts. Had to do that with the flange behind the cats and get new spring bolts last week on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 ya but i think he means, the flanges are flaky and will prob disintegrate when he pulls the cans off..id save up for an X02/CXL unit instead. or get some aftermarket exhaust cans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danhall51 Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Thanks for the advice and it's rusted to the point I can't find the difference between the bolts and pipe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 21, 2012 I Donated Share Posted May 21, 2012 Welcome to the Rust Belt. I ended up scoring an almost-brand-new stock exhaust on here for $100 and putting that on, and yes, I had to grind the bolts off. My car spent its first 6 years in NH, and the flanges were so badly rusted that after I cleaned them off, if I had tried to put them back together, there would have been a 2-3mm gap in places. I guess that's basically what Hogzawst does anyway, though, so maybe you want it? BTW, to guard against bolts rusting up, apply anti-seize liberally before re-assembling. It won't completely prevent it, but the exhaust will come off more easily the next time you want it to. I've been putting anti-seize on every bolt on the suspension, brakes, and exhaust that I take out, and it has helped a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 i wouldnt touch it unless its leaking or u get a after market CBE. then u will get your rumble on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W.K.S. Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 i wouldnt touch it unless its leaking or u get a after market CBE. then u will get your rumble on. I agree. My stock exhaust is basically fused together and ready to turn to dust, lol. Just sucked it up and bought new up down, and cbe. I suggest the same. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danhall51 Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Yea I've been looking on the market an think I'm just gunna upgrade to stainless steel CBE. It won't do anything for my 2.5i but at least it will look nice and also sound somewhat cool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 PB blaster and heat. If that doesn't work, take a sawzal to the nuts and cut them off flush with the flange. Then get new nuts/bolts. Had to do that with the flange behind the cats and get new spring bolts last week on mine. You can get a electric cut off wheel if you don't have sawzal. BTW, to guard against bolts rusting up, apply anti-seize liberally before re-assembling. It won't completely prevent it, but the exhaust will come off more easily the next time you want it to. I've been putting anti-seize on every bolt on the suspension, brakes, and exhaust that I take out, and it has helped a lot. Hey, that's my line...I even do the lug nuts. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 If u want sound u could just do x02 cans and a short ram . U Should get that na to sound good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 FWIW, here's mine on my wagon. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4150.jpg Here it is with no mufflers http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4159.jpg Here's both cars, the Spec now has the muffler deletes on it. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4595.jpg 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 24, 2012 I Donated Share Posted May 24, 2012 Hey, that's my line...I even do the lug nuts. Not the greatest idea -- anti-seize screws with the torque specs. It's not even necessary unless you have open-ended lugs, because the lugs protect against rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Not the greatest idea -- anti-seize screws with the torque specs. It's not even necessary unless you have open-ended lugs, because the lugs protect against rust. I began doing the lug nuts after my 00 Legacy GT wagon had a issue with some of the threads on the hubs. I've using anti-sieze on all the lug nuts on every car I work on since. I torque all the lug nuts to 80ftlbs on every car or truck. Even the Ti lug nuts on the race car. Never had a problem again. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted May 24, 2012 I Donated Share Posted May 24, 2012 I began doing the lug nuts after my 00 Legacy GT wagon had a issue with some of the threads on the hubs. I've using anti-sieze on all the lug nuts on every car I work on since. I torque all the lug nuts to 80ftlbs on every car or truck. Even the Ti lug nuts on the race car. Never had a problem again. Interesting discussion n anti-seize on lug studs (especially post 5): http://www.engineersedge.com/wwwboard/posts/13070.html On the threads is fine; on the seats is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 24, 2012 Share Posted May 24, 2012 Good find, Thanks. We do a lot of torquing here at work, upwards of 600ftlbs. All the fasteners get so type of lube. Mostly we use a Moly-coat paste. We also coat the threads and the bearing surface of the nut, bolts and washers. We build items for the US Navy Sub's and NASA Space Station. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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