praedet Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 All right, so I have finally assembled the components to do the 2nd step of my audio install. The first step was a kenwood dnx8120 in the dash. Step 2: 1. Deaden/soundproof doors and wheel wells 2. Wire for amps and speakers 3. Create the mounting location for the amps/dist block/crossovers 4. Install front speakers What is going in: -RaamMat BXT II -PS Ensolite -Alpine PDX 4.150 (powering the fronts) -Alpine PDX 1.1000 (powering the subs, probably not installed yet, but everything ready for it - Polk Audio SR5250 - Patrick's Spacers - JL 2 Gauge 2 Amp Wiring kit - 14 Gauge speaker wire So, the plan is to completely deaden/soundproof the front doors and run the speaker wires first. Hopefully I can knock that out in a few 2 hour windows. Then I will fabricate the mount for the amps, crossovers, and dist. Block. Run the wiring for the amps. Lastly install the speakers and tune. Step 3 will be: Homemade fiberglass sub box, or a JL Audio StealthBox depending on my time/laziness. I also might do a JBL MS-8 in the end. So, with the speakers I am using I can install them coaxially, or separate. Anyone got any thoughts on that? The ring radiator is a very nice mellow tweeter, but sounds best on axis… Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 All right, lots of comments and suggestions here Here is the planned amp rack from a few views. It will have the dist. block, 2 amps, and 2 cross-overs mounted on it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chutrain Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Looking good so far. How/where are you mounting the rack? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 This is a "temporary" rack until I get the MS-8/processor. So, it will literally just sit in the stock foam compartment the wagon has right above the spare tire... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coppertone Posted May 19, 2012 Share Posted May 19, 2012 My MS 8 has served me well, I like where you are going with this. I'll be watching and learning... 2010 2.5GT limited is for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 Checking fitment with the real stuff before making cuts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coppertone Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Looking good, have you considered running active since you will have the MS8 or am I reading this wrong? 2010 2.5GT limited is for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 ^^^I will be active, when I get the MS-8 Basically I am going to run passive (biamped) for a few months and then install the MS-8 when I have the time. There are a few reasons for this. First: I don't have an MS-8 yet Second: I haven't figured out where it will go for sure yet Third: I want to see how the system sounds passive Fourth: I will have to figure out a better location for the tweeters once I go active. I think that about covers it. This will probably be the last work I get to do for a week as my daughter is having surgery a little ways away. Ted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coppertone Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Ok I see your point about the MS8 location. Mine is located under my drivers seat, with my screen in my center console. I am not against running passive with great sound deadening, I just prefer to have more fluid control. I am sure no matter what way you run, you will enjoy the sounds. 2010 2.5GT limited is for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 So, the amp rack is finished, and would be entirely assembled, but some of the parts in the wiring kit were jacked, so I am waiting on a new kit. I have damped and ensolited half of each front door, just trying out the ease of putting the door off and on I will finish when I run the wires and mount the speakers. I am also trying out some cool disconnects that get great reviews, but come from the RC world. So, I have made the double wire runs and created the hook-ins for the x-overs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPERBU Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Hey cool idea with the Deans connectors. I use those on all of my RC stuff. Did you make solder connections on the speakers? Looking good. On the tweeters- I usually prefer to keep the components together in a coaxial configuration. I guess it depends on the vehicle though. I hope you have better luck with those Polk's than I did. Mine were DOA right out of the box. One dead tweeter and one dead X-over. I was pissed and ended up using JL components. The polks would have sounded nice had they worked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lucas569 Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 your lucky you have a wagon (space) check out bings wagon install) tons of stuff to get ideas from. (he did two installs in his wagon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 Hey cool idea with the Deans connectors. I use those on all of my RC stuff. Did you make solder connections on the speakers? Looking good. On the tweeters- I usually prefer to keep the components together in a coaxial configuration. I guess it depends on the vehicle though. I hope you have better luck with those Polk's than I did. Mine were DOA right out of the box. One dead tweeter and one dead X-over. I was pissed and ended up using JL components. The polks would have sounded nice had they worked.Thanks! Yeah, I did all the soldering for everything with lots of shrink wrap for strain relief once I tested the connection. Hope mine aren't DOA! I better test them before install... your lucky you have a wagon (space) check out bings wagon install) tons of stuff to get ideas from. (he did two installs in his wagon)Yeah, I have been bouncing stuff off him so far. He is mad because I am bi-amping but waiting to go active Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coppertone Posted June 5, 2012 Share Posted June 5, 2012 Bing is who I inspire to install like. Too bad he left us Jersey people for a better life in Cali lol. 2010 2.5GT limited is for sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted July 9, 2012 Author Share Posted July 9, 2012 Sorry for the blurry pics, you'd think I was drunk! All right, here is what has been working VERY well for about 4 weeks... The speaker cable for the stealth box is temporary for 3 reasons. 1. I am making a larger gauge/better cable. 2. The stealthbox is being replaced by JL for cosmetic reasons 3. I want to install damping material behind the sub and haven't done it yet Overall, the system sounds great with the headunit doing TA duties running passive x-overs biamped with the speakers set-up as coax. I did route the power cables to the rear of the car, and all speaker/RCAs to the front, so I do not have any noise issues to date (knock on wood) I am impressed with the sound from the single 10W6, but the PDX amp get VERY hot running it. I don't know if I should get the newer PDX that is slightly smaller, runs cooler, and has more power. Or, I could make a fan system, but that is a lot of work... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
praedet Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 All right, so an update to those that look at this in the future. So, with putting the 2 PDXs in that small of an area, under the floor with a rubber cover on top and a 90 lb dog in hot summer weather, the amps (especially the sub amp) would get pretty hot after about 2 or so hours. Nothing bad seemed to be happening, but I was concerned... So, I installed two of these feeding from the front compartment and blowing over the amps, and two of these blowing the air off the amps and out the back, along with a spacer that raises the floor about a half inch so the air goes out. So far it works great. I am running the fans off the 12 volts that goes to the towing harness with a relay that turns them on when the HU turns on the amps... Little to no noticeable noise even when the music is not playing... I also installed the new Stealthbox, a better speaker wire, and a 160 amp alternator... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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