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DMV Legacy/Outback BI-Weekly Meets


tsunami

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I personally wouldn't go to TurboXS for another tune. I believe I have talked about my experience with them before. Maybe you will have a better experience, maybe not. In the end, at least Jermaine's tune was safe and didn't blow my car up.

 

IMO, if you want an open-source tune, get a CryoTune. If you want a dyno tune, get a Cobb AP and either go to IAG, or make the trek up to MA and get tuned by Bren.

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Because I'm asking about local tuners?

 

Local tuners do dyno tunes, or occasionally road tunes. Both are more expensive than e-tunes. There is zero reason to ask about local e-tuners, because it doesn't matter where an e-tuner is located. Their skills are the same whether the person they're tuning is 5 miles away or 5000 miles away. If you want an e-tuner, you should shop based on reputation, not location.

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Has to be road tune as my tune needs adjusting as stated. Never done dyno

 

E-tuners can "adjust" tunes remotely. Otherwise, e-tuning would not be safe for your engine. Realistically speaking, if you go to a new tuner, whether they do e-tunes, road tunes, or dyno tunes, they are going to start from scratch no matter what, as they have no idea whether the previous tune is crap or not and they all do tuning their own way.

 

Who did your current tune? Why do you say it "needs adjusting"?

 

AFAIK, the only option locally for road tunes is DPS, so yeah...

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Chef racer back in Philly. Afr fluctuating on again off again during idle, driving with no boost and during low to medium boost. This started to gradually happen couple months after switching from a vf46 to 52. He checked the tune about a month after the installation everything seemed to be running fine then. Lately getting P0138, installed new oxygen sensor, came back again. Wanted so see if the tune needed a better adjustment or something before handing it off to a shop
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Chef racer back in Philly. Afr fluctuating on again off again during idle, driving with no boost and during low to medium boost. This started to gradually happen couple months after switching from a vf46 to 52. He checked the tune about a month after the installation everything seemed to be running fine then. Lately getting P0138, installed new oxygen sensor, came back again. Wanted so see if the tune needed a better adjustment or something before handing it off to a shop

 

He doesn't look like he tunes professionally... maybe try a professional e-tune if you don't want to pony up for a decent dyno tune? Cryo is known for working extensively with his customers when they have mechanical issues that interfere with their tunes, so I'd say that's a pretty good bet just in case your issues are not related exclusively to your tune.

 

Have you reset the ECU using Learning View since you replace the oxygen sensor? And you replaced the rear one, not the front one? FWIW, P0138 sounds like an electrical fault with the rear O2 sensor, not a tune issue.

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No didn't do any resetting. I replaced the front one

 

You replaced the wrong one. P0138 is "Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor2)," and "Sensor2" is the rear one.

 

BTW, the only thing the rear O2 sensor does is determine if the catalytic convertor is working, so if you have drivability issues, there's something else that's not related to that code that's causing the problem.

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