rdp2n Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 I am in the process of reassembling a 1995 Legacy after installing a replacement trans. I reinstalled the front axles to the trans splines with new spring pins, but now I notice that the passenger side outer boot is torn. Since the balljoints and tie rod ends are off, there is probably no better time than now to replace the axles and have done with it -- but how do I remove the axle nuts with the wheels off and the thing on jackstands? Anyone know any tricks? Also, what size socket will I need for the axle nut removal and can anyone recommend a decent brand of axles to install and where to get them? Thanks, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiskeyTango Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 22mm IIRC and an impact Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 impact is the answer, but since you don't have that, you can jamb a screwdriver through the caliper bracket in to the vent slots of the rotor. use a strong one but not your best one. used, rebooted subaru axles, green inner cup, are a better / safer bet than the cheap remans the parts store sells. if you are going to buy one locally i would probably go to NAPA. i have not heard many bad things about them. napa may cost a little more. and i don't know if napa is better than the ''step up'' axle at the other parts stores. the cheapest axle available may be a crap shoot but it will get you on the road the same day. and maybe for a good while.? i thoink the socket is a 32mm or 1.25 inches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Another option is have someone stand on the brake while you break it loose Sent from my SCH-I800 using Tapatalk 2 BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 Since most of the control arm is disassemble, the impact gun is the best option. Otherwise, the other option is to reasemble the main control arm for stablity, then place the other 3 wheels on the ground to prevent the shaft from rotating. Use a strong breaker bar and a 3 foot (or more) extension pipe over the breaker bar for torque. Not sure what the nut size is on your model year. GL My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 30, 2012 Share Posted April 30, 2012 I tried for a half a day to get my axle nut off. I PB blasted it, heated it, jumped up and down on a breaker bar. No luck. I had to get an electric impact gun to get it off. It was about $70. But it has come in very handy. I jammed a screwdriver in the rotor, too. Harbor Freight sells an even cheaper one. You punched out the dent that locks it right? Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted April 30, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted April 30, 2012 Breaker bar plus floor jack to lift the bar. Oh and a couple of spare sockets for when one decides to crack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp2n Posted May 1, 2012 Author Share Posted May 1, 2012 Thanks, all -- the screwdriver jammed into the brake caliper -> rotor slots works just fine -- Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 My breaker bar (not for axle, for wheel bearing in this case) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Now that's a breaker bar! I wish I would have thought of putting a board under the lugs. I was jacking up the rotor to get a ball joint out. The jack slipped and the strut shot down and it ended up yanking the transmission spindle out! Scared the shit out of me and I thought that I may have ruined my tranny. But the spindle went right back in, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 Now that's a breaker bar! Notice that this particular job actually bent my 6' breaker bar extension/pipe. Look closely in the second pic about 18" from the socket you can see that the pipe bent at the end of the 19"x1/2" breaker bar. If you want to see how I tackled replacing my spindles and upgrading to Wilwood BBK on my Durango you can check out my walkthough. Its got a LOT of step by step photos of me proving that it can be done on the street out front with no air or power tools. http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150929 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiskeyTango Posted May 2, 2012 Share Posted May 2, 2012 https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/390312_338469589500541_100000125096455_1513518_185573264_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/376521_338469476167219_100000125096455_1513517_343525500_n.jpg My breaker bar (not for axle, for wheel bearing in this case) Are you doing that on the street? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted May 2, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 2, 2012 MAPP gas, and a 2 foot long breaker bar with a 3 foot steel pipe for leverage. "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Breaker bars, mapp gas, a super long steel pipe are great if you have them handy already. I'm just saying a cheap electric impact gun will cost about the same or less if you don't. Breaker bar would be about $20 from HF, mapp gas tank w/torch will will run you at least $50, long steel pipe ???. Electric impact gun $20-70. Cheap ones to be had at HF but they suck. Plus you have to run around and gather all the stuff. It is always nice if you have the tools on hand. But for a noob like me I had to gather and figure everything out as I went so it kinda sucked. There is nothing like breaking a bolt loose after a day or two of effort though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Are you doing that on the street? tackled replacing my spindles and upgrading to Wilwood BBK on my Durango you can check out my walkthough. Its got a LOT of step by step photos of me proving that it can be done on the street out front with no air or power tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 ^Nice write up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp2n Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 OK -- I got the axles back in yesterday. (One of them I cleaned up and put back in because the boots were not broken and the other I switched for an "A1 Cardone reman @ NAPA). I had a look at the wheel bearings and they seem OK. My next question is this: The car is still on jack stands. Should I tighten the axle nut all the way (to 120 - 130 ft-lb) now, or should I wait until the car is back on wheels to tighten fully? Is there a best strategy for doing this? I'm asking because I don't want to run the risk of damaging the wheel bearings (or anything / anybody else, come to that). Thanks, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted May 14, 2012 Share Posted May 14, 2012 Tighten it all the way while it is up on jackstands. I tightened mine down to 100 ft. lbs. with my torque wrench first. That is as high as my torque wrench goes. Then I used a breaker bar and guessed that I added another 30-40 ft. lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdp2n Posted May 14, 2012 Author Share Posted May 14, 2012 Thanks for the practical details, monkeyposeur -- Very helpful Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clearanceman Posted September 15, 2012 Share Posted September 15, 2012 I tried for a half a day to get my axle nut off. I PB blasted it, heated it, jumped up and down on a breaker bar. No luck. I had to get an electric impact gun to get it off. It was about $70. But it has come in very handy. I jammed a screwdriver in the rotor, too. Harbor Freight sells an even cheaper one. You punched out the dent that locks it right? Good luck. Yeah, the electric impact gun is awesome, just loosens it right away without even touching the dent first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 little late but cant you just replace the boot? i know they sell boots for like 6 bucks. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clearanceman Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Tighten it all the way while it is up on jackstands. I tightened mine down to 100 ft. lbs. with my torque wrench first. That is as high as my torque wrench goes. Then I used a breaker bar and guessed that I added another 30-40 ft. lbs. I did mine to 142 pounds, It's in that area. My Craftsman torque wrench only goes to 150 ft. pounds. If I get another, it will got to 180 or 200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clearanceman Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 OK -- I got the axles back in yesterday. (One of them I cleaned up and put back in because the boots were not broken and the other I switched for an "A1 Cardone reman @ NAPA). I had a look at the wheel bearings and they seem OK. My next question is this: The car is still on jack stands. Should I tighten the axle nut all the way (to 120 - 130 ft-lb) now, or should I wait until the car is back on wheels to tighten fully? Is there a best strategy for doing this? I'm asking because I don't want to run the risk of damaging the wheel bearings (or anything / anybody else, come to that). Thanks, Rob Might be ok, but in the future, try to get used OEM or change the boots if the joint is ok. Some of those aftermarket axles are a nightmare. Some don't hold up but some actually cause a jackhammer type vibration in drive with the brake on like at a stop light. I just went through that and it sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clearanceman Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/390312_338469589500541_100000125096455_1513518_185573264_n.jpg https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/376521_338469476167219_100000125096455_1513517_343525500_n.jpg My breaker bar (not for axle, for wheel bearing in this case) I've got an impact gun but I would have never thought of the board thing. That's very clever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LosAngelesLGT Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 The trick is jacking up the suspension just enough to stop the spindle but not to apply crazy force to the studs. Once the jack was a little loaded it and I could see the studs were pushed into the wood the tiniest bit it was good to go. Alternately,at least on the Durango, I could have put the wheel back on without the centercap and tried to break the axle nut off with a socket extension to the bar but I was concerned about the shear over that length. Pics embeded in previous post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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