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Can't decide on a spring...


TheDon427

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It seems like the more I read up on springs, the more confused and indecisive I get. :spin:

 

Currently, I have the OEM Bilsteins on my '08 Spec.B and want to lower it and improve handling. However, I commute 65 miles daily so ride comfort is something to keep in mind.

 

I was all for the JDM Pinks but reading up on blown struts and the OEM Bilsteins being mismatched for them... I'm having second thoughts.

 

I want to lower it a good amount (think S-tech) which is why I like the Pinks, but reading up on how the LGT's have poor suspension travel to begin with concerns me. I considered replacing the stock struts with Koni's or HD's but they only have 28k miles on them and it seems like it would be a waste to remove them with such little mileage. I'd also hate to have them blow with a stiff spring like the Pinks but I guess that will eventually happen regardless.

 

So, besides the terrible s-techs, what spring out there is a relatively good match for the stock Bilsteins while still giving a good amount of drop?

 

 

My main focus points with choosing a spring setup is:

 

Even, lowered ride height - 40%

Improved handling - 40%

Ride comfort - 20%

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I've had coilovers and went back to springs on my WRX. Overkill for a daily driver IMO. I also don't want to deal with seizing, rusting, rebuilding after 15k, swapping out for winter, etc.

 

If I had to pick 2, it would be the first 2 listed. That's why I listed the percentage on how much I care about each one. Ride quality is just something to keep in mind but not necessarily a deciding factor.

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buttttt if you buy a nice set of coilovers it is most def not overkill. they all have advantages and disadvantages...if i had to choose i would say the STi pinks are the best drop spring option. mattg is on those and take a look at his and ask how he feels about them.

 

i still say you should save for a 1500+ coilover :)

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It's just not in the cards right now. For driving to and from work, I don't see the need for a $1,500-$2k set of coilovers. I'm trying to keep everything as simple as possible. I went through all the trial and error as well as the frustration and headaches with my WRX.

 

I recall getting so mad one time that I punched my steering wheel, thus breaking all of the horn sensors inside... which meant I had to drive the rest of the way home (20 minutes) with the horn blaring at oncoming traffic. Had to replace it with a whole new airbag setup which would have cost me $400 if the dealer didn't warranty it. :lol: :lol:

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I want to lower it a good amount (think S-tech) which is why I like the Pinks.

I'm confused. Pinks are only rated at 15 mm (.6") drop. If you want more drop, I would go with Swifts, which are rated at -1.2" F/-1.0" R, and, like the pinks, their advertised drop is based on usage with JDM/Spec B/Bilstein-style top hats.

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It seems that the Pinks, Eibach and Swifts are the main 3 people use. I'm going to look into the Swifts more tonight when I get home. I don't want to lower the car too much where I bottom out all the time. Just enough to look good with aftermarket 18" wheels.
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Jeez... if that data is accurate, then what makes the Swifts any better than the S-techs? The Swifts are stiffer, and supposedly have more of a drop. Theoretically, that would make them "worse" for our cars. Right?

 

That data makes the Swifts seem like the worst option. I wonder why everyone hates the S-techs but praise the Swifts.

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Not sure where you're getting the info that lowered springs are blowing USDM Spec B Bilsteins. There's a lot of info about lowered springs blowing the stock USDM LGT KYB struts, but that's a totally different strut. I'd run the Swifts on your Spec B Bilsteins and, if and when they need replacement in 60K or so miles, replace them with Bilstein HDs.
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I'm running the Swifts on my Bils and am happy with it. I drive 60 miles round trip daily for work and the roads here are less than ideal. If you want a nice drop and handling, with comfort a distant third I think you might like this setup. It's not harsh - stiffer for sure and my only complaint is a little bounce in the right conditions (certain patterns of repeated dips) which is rare.

 

Nice thing about Bilsteins is you can have them revalved or rebuilt as well. My performance Subaru shop rebuilds them without hesitation and if mine do get "clunky" I'll have them redone.

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What makes them any different or better than S-techs? I've always known S-techs to be the laughing stock of springs and everyone is steered away from them. According to the chart posted above, if the Swifts sit lower and are stiffer, wouldn't that make them worse?
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swifts are designed for bilstein and offers good stance, but the aggressive drop wont work well for streets of New York. cut bump stop in half is a must if you are going with this setup.

 

rallitek springs and koni inserts would be my ideal setup for NYC. too bad rallitek don't offer their springs anymore.

 

i say do it once and do it right when comes to suspension.

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Between my wedding in a few weeks, getting a new apartment and all new furniture... I'm about $45k out of pocket this month. Buying $1,500-$2,000 coilovers is nowhere near my list of priorities right now. :lol:

 

$200 springs? Ok.

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Ok, so I've been researching proper suspension setups for my car and figured I'd post some info up here in case any of you are in the same boat or just want something to read.

 

 

I decided on the Swift springs. They're JDM, just like the JDM Pink springs, and very good quality. They also give quite a bit of a drop compared to other springs, yet have a very good ride quality, especially when paired with the Bilsteins. Below is a chart on spring rates, the drop data may be off a bit. Also, I'm on Bilstein struts which has different tophats so a JDM spring is more appropriate for my vehicle.

 

http://subiwiki.com/wiki/index.php/BL_(2005-2009)#Handling_Modifications

 

Stock.......=..3.5 kgf/mm F.... 5.5 kgf/mm R

Pinks..........=..4 kgf/mm F....... 6 kgf/mm R

Tein S-tech.=..4.2 kgf/mm F.... 6.0 kgf/mm R

Swifts.........=.4.25 kfg/mm F... 6.6 kgf/mm R

 

If lowering any more than 1", the suspension geometry will be thrown off and car may have what's called "bump steer". An FRC (front roll center) or bump steer correction kit is recommended. I'll likely go with the Whiteline kit below since it includes both and should tighten things up quite a bit.

 

KCA313

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA313&sans_vehicle=1

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KCA313.jpg

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KCA313-3.jpg

 

Also, the Legacy stock suspension doesn't allow for rear camber adjustment so I'll likely get the Whiteline rear camber bolts. When lowering the car, it'll actually add too much negative camber, something around -2.5* so I can get bushings which will give me back 1* and set me to -1.5*. I'm still not sure if I should get the camber bolts, or camber bushing.

 

KCA399

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA399&sans_vehicle=1

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KCA399.JPG

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KCA399-3.jpg

 

 

A few guys get adjustable lateral links but this is my daily driver and won't be a track car, so I don't feel it's necessary to replace half of the suspension components. Not to mention, the Spec.B comes with lots of upgraded suspension over the standard GT models. This isn't really an option for me right now mainly due to the cost, and the car only has 27k miles on it so I don't want to start replacing things just yet. And like I said, it's a comfortable daily driver. I have no desire to turn it into a stiff, bouncy, track car.

 

KTA124

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KTA124&sans_vehicle=1

 

http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KTA124.jpg

 

 

So, to sum it up, this is pretty much my checklist:

 

1. Tires (Good set of tires)

2. Swift Springs (on the Rev C Bilsteins)

3. Front WL KCA313

4. Rear WL KCA399

5. (If I wanted to do what some of the other, suspension gurus get, which they think I'd be better served over the long-haul with) rear WL KTA124 and the KCA307 Rear Toe Lock bolts.

3. Performance alignment -1.0 front/-1.5 rear camber, 0* toe, 0* cross-camber.

4. And eventually, front WL KCA334 or AVO S1X03E1GV002T rear LCA bushings - when the stock ones fail.

 

I want to thank some of you guys for helping me make sense of all of this information and decide on what to get. Big thanks to SBT for helping me out with what parts to look into. I appreciate all the help and advice you guys have given me.

 

I haven't ordered anything yet so now begins researching on where to buy all the parts! :lol:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Just picked up a brand new, in the box set of JDM Pinks for a killer price. That settles that. Now I have to sell the Whiteline kit above (KCA313) that I bought since I thought I was going lower with the Swifts.

 

I think I'm going to install the front springs first, to even out the ride height. My wedding is in 2 weeks so I don't have much time to work on the car at the moment and I want it picture-ready for the wedding since it'll be our golden chariot. :lol:

 

Will I need spacers for the rear? Part numbers of the springs are as follows:

 

FRONT

ST2033021020

 

REAR

ST2038021000

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