Rumpeltiltskin Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 The crank pulley fell off and wore through the timing cover. I need to know what size of bolt i need to put back in the pulley. I think some handy jb weld will take care of the timing cover. by the way this car has 312k miles on it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 This is what makes your car run right so it needs to be done right. Go to a junk yard. Get the crank pulley, crank gear behind the pulley and the woodruff key (the half moon shaped one) from the crank and replace all of that and put it back on there with the junkyard bolt. If you use JB Weld on that you're not gonna like it. Get the timing covers and gaskets and spend the $30-50 and do it the right way in case you ever need to take it back off. With that many miles on it you may want to consider getting the idler pulleys and a timing belt too. Also, you may want to check the crank to make sure the keyway isnt damaged where the woodruff key goes.There's a reason that car has that many miles and it's because it was taken care of. If you continue to take good care of it that thing can last another 300k. Is it an automatic or a manual? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumpeltiltskin Posted April 10, 2012 Author Share Posted April 10, 2012 the jb weld is just gonna cover the hole that the pulley made. it will still be able to be removed and reinstalled when necessary. the timing belt was done about 20 or 30k miles ago so it is fine. a new key is probably a good idea. i haven't had time to work on it so i'm not sure how the key or the crank looks. I thought in the meantime i could get a bolt so when i did have time i would have the parts i need. There doesn't seem to be much for subarus in junkyards around here and i don't have time to keep checking them. The closest junkyard to me is about 50 miles away so by the time i make a couple trips there i could have just bought new parts for the cost of the gas i burned. can someone point me to a place where i can look up part numbers and whatnot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poonhandler Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 this has happened to me twice first time the key completly damaged the pulley got a new one just wasn't tight enough so it fell ooff I just put it on and torqued correctly. me and a friend and been making some crank pulleys that we have drilled holes matching to the crank gear and have 2 pins backing up the key. its nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 I think bbs.legacycentral.org would be a good place to go when looking for parts. People are always selling stuff on there. You could open up a new post asking if anyone is selling those things. I would definitely try and stick with genuine Subaru parts though. And you must live in Florida haha There's never any Subaru's in the junk yards here :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'm going to the junkyard soon. I could probably find you a bolt and send it to you for what I pay for it plus shipping. Ordering a new one would be an even better idea and be pretty cheap. I bet it would only be about $6 or so. But just replacing the bolt is not a good fix as has already been stated. But I am also happy to send you one if I can get one off at the junkyard, lol. They can be pretty stubborn w/o an impact gun. Yeah, just order one from the dealership or the internet. Here is a diagram from the Subaru FSM. The bolt you need is no. 14, part no. 8002 13030. Part name: Bolt-13x65x28. Legacywagon, if you ever need a first gen part I'll take a look when I go roaming the yards. Also, I might be able to pick up an SS for you w/5MT for $1k, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 The parts you really should get from that diagram are 14, 15, 16 and 8. Dude, that's freakin awesome I'm sure I'll take you up on that at some point as I have two of these and no parts cars :/ And that'd be freakin sweet! Also, if you see any 2.5RS's or WRX's or STi's grab me a short shifter linkage haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumpeltiltskin Posted April 12, 2012 Author Share Posted April 12, 2012 Why would I need the pulleys. I was planning on throwing a new bolt in and away we go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 It is a preventative measure. As your bolt came loose your pulley was spinning around at a high rate of speed and as a result had a large amount of angular momentum. As it slipped off it the angular momentum could have deformed the pulley and crank sensor causing play upon where they sit on the crankshaft. If you just want to replace the bolt put the bits back on and see if there is any play. If there isn't any, bolt that stuff back on and away you go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 12, 2012 Share Posted April 12, 2012 Most likely your crank pulley fell off for one of two reasons. Either your bolt wasnt tight enough...which happens. Or the key twisted and ate the pulley/timing gear/ key and it pushed the bolt back out by force and vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumpeltiltskin Posted April 24, 2012 Author Share Posted April 24, 2012 The pulley looks like it is still good to go. I jb welded the timing cover and I think that should work fine. my wife is gonna go pick up the new bolt today. they had to order it go figure. I drove the car up on some ramps and got the hotsy out and cleaned 10 years of oil leak debris off the under side. I still don't know where the oil is coming from. I always assumed front crank seal but it actually looks good. how hard is it to change valve cover gaskets? That is my next best guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 24, 2012 Share Posted April 24, 2012 It should be much easier to tell where it's leaking from now that it's clean. If it's the sides it's the valve cover gaskets. If it's the front it's the front main or cam seals. The rear is probably the rear main. I did my valve cover gaskets when the engine was out so it was practically a zero on the difficulty scale. You can do it without pulling the engine. You'll probably have to remove the air box, intake tube, battery and washer tank and some random hoses and stuff. It's 3 bolts on each side and your kit hopefully will come with new grommets for the bolts too. It's not a hard job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Valve covers are easy peasy. It's hard to get a socket in there but a wrench can! The factory service manual calls for about 3.6 ft lbs (which feels like almost nothing) on the grommet bolts so go easy. The bolts will bottom out too, so if you feel them stop, then quit. You don't want to strip them. It's a good idea to clean the mating surfaces with a scotch brite pad after you remove the rocker/valve covers and will help you to see future leaks. You can buy a U.V. oil treatment that you pour into your oil intake. Then drive around for a day and shine a black light on your engine and wherever the leak is you will see a glow. Another likely culprit is your cam-cap o-rings. They sit behind the engine toward the firewall. One on each side. I would recommend replacing them since they always go bad (About $5 or so each). In order to replace the driver's side, the timing components must be off, not so on the passenger side. Here is a diagram that illustrates the driver's side. Like Legacy Wagon said, you will have to remove the washer tank, etc. Also removing the oil intake tube makes things easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 25, 2012 Share Posted April 25, 2012 Didnt know about the timing. Guess I already had that stuff apart by then. So it makes it a little bit more difficult, but good to know it's still do-able inside the car without too much hassle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Valve covers are easy peasy. Another likely culprit is your cam-cap o-rings. They sit behind the engine toward the firewall. One on each side. I would recommend replacing them since they always go bad (About $5 or so each). Where are these at? Do you have any pictures? I'm about to pull the engine on Sunday and I'm wondering about where these are so I can go ahead and replace them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 26, 2012 Share Posted April 26, 2012 Here is the diagram from my trusty FSM! Parts 3 & 9 are the camshaft supports. Part 2 is the O-ring. The o-ring (part name 46.5x2) is part no. 8069 46030 and are about $5 or so each from the dealer. The driver's side seems to go bad first for some reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Ah, thank ya How difficult are they to get to? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted April 27, 2012 Share Posted April 27, 2012 Really easy. I didn't even remove the air intake or anything when I replaced them on my second gen. The hard part was finding the passenger side because of oil gunk, lol. Like I said, only the driver's side has to have the cam sprocket off to get to it. Here is another diagram with the torque specs. Not much at all, 7 ft lbs for all bolts but one, and 12 ft lbs for the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumpeltiltskin Posted April 27, 2012 Author Share Posted April 27, 2012 Well I threw on some new valve cover gaskets and I still have a pretty serious oil leak. it is coming from the front area I think. any suggestions on where to look next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 The front main seal. You could take off the timing covers and see if that's the issue. It may also be from the oil pump, I guess. Didnt you clean up the entire bottom of the engine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rumpeltiltskin Posted April 28, 2012 Author Share Posted April 28, 2012 Yes I did but it only leaks when driving for some reason. so the fan just blows oil back all over everything. I had the timing cover off and it all looked clean. Could it be leaking between the plastic and the head where the cam is? It looks like it is right around where the dipstick tube is welded to the pan possibly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy Wagon Posted April 28, 2012 Share Posted April 28, 2012 I wonder if it could be from the oil pump. I'm not sure what place you're talking about right now though. Having trouble picturing it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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