MDKSDMF Posted March 29, 2012 Share Posted March 29, 2012 here are two pics that show some of the differences between teh ipr and stock intercooler. i bought this for two reasons, its welded and wont blow under higher boost pressure and brand new it was dirt cheap...dont get soo happy just yet because as im sure u know this takes the most patient mechanic or weekend warrior to install...or should i say install the best it can..long story short it can be a pain in the ass if you are new to working on your subaru. Any body want to help out by adding tips and or tricks on fitment feel free. i hope to help a lot of future owners with this thread. i used a bolt, nut and washer to clear the clutch master cylinder but thats another story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 I see your in MA, I took mine to AJWperformance to have them install it the first time. After that its as easy as oem to take off and put back on. It took them about 45 minutes with a test drive to install it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted March 31, 2012 Share Posted March 31, 2012 nice pics, too bad they perform pretty much the same i know you bought it for durability Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shadowsports Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 I'm no pro, but own an IPR myself. Removing the stocker is a piece of cake. Install tips... Zip tie the 3 vacuum hoses on the "blue" T below the IC. If one comes off you'll be removing the IC again. Time saver. Use blue tape and cover the bottom of the new IC with a piece of cardboard before install. Careful as you might try to be, bent fins happen. Cardboard protects against this. Turbo inlet is aluminum. Bolts only need 8ft lbs of torque. Go tighter and you'll strip the threads. Each leggy is a little different, and those with a MT can have clearance issues with the cap on the clutch cylinder. Washers work great here. People also vary how they mount on this side, on top or below the bracket. Engine cover needs to be trimmed for best fit if you decide to use it. That's all I can think of right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No DRFT Posted April 1, 2012 Share Posted April 1, 2012 nice pics, too bad they perform pretty much the same i know you bought it for durability Shut up, you and your fancy high dollar bucks tmic I have no control over drippie. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted April 4, 2012 Author Share Posted April 4, 2012 Yes, durability was the plan, would have gone front mount if I was going to do a turbo or substantial racing..which im not. I did it for some booost man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Thomson Posted April 14, 2012 Share Posted April 14, 2012 How much? And where from? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 South shore. 300 or best offer. It wasnt for sale but of the offers right idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 We have had some major fights with those things, lol. Deff cover the back side (they love to hit the clutch slave cylinder banjo bolt) and test fit. It might be very tight against the turbo (side of TMIC hitting side of turbo flange), do not force things together with the turbo flange bolts. On many the BOV does not fit so well and you must attach the return hose prior to mounting the BPV. On many the BPV mount threads need to be re-tapped. If new, inspect for metal shavings inside end tanks prior to install. Dont forget to remove the rubber liner on the TMIC side of the TB hose. Dont use the supplied plastic "gasket". Use some gasket paper and cut a new gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDKSDMF Posted April 17, 2012 Author Share Posted April 17, 2012 I had a decent fit before I recently had the clutch replaced. Upon reassembly they didnt adjustthe bolt adjuster. So im gonna try to use the new perin spacer with the factory gasket on each side (one side is grooved like stock) see if that helps the fit and hopefully ditch the adjuster. Im not sure but it currently seems to clunk of the rear motor mount or trany mount in the middle top of the tmic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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