rdp2n Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Last weekend my son and I finally managed to get the transmission out of a 1995 Legacy in the driveway. We used a 450lb capacity trans jack from harbor freight (Item # 31978 -- decent value for less than $100) without which we probably could not have done the job. In the Legacy documentation is says not to have the trans jack saddle in contact with the sump pan of the trans. So I set the jack in front of the pan between the pan and the subframe. In order to do this I put 2 pieces of 1-ft long 2x4 on the saddle (plus an extra 1-ft 1/2 thick wood shim toward the rear) of the trans. Then I raised the jack to support the trans weight and tightened the belt. When we wrestled the trans free of the 2 lower studs, it turned out that the jack saddle was too far forward and the trans, rather unbalanced, sagged backwards and downwards. (This wasn't dangerous, just inconvenient). However, what technique should we use for installing the replacement trans? The books say don't put the jack in contact with the trans sump pan -- but that's the best place from the point of view of balancing the thing! Should the pan be removed for installing the trans? Thanks, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted February 27, 2012 I Donated Share Posted February 27, 2012 I've used the pan myself without any bad results...You just have to be careful not to dent it or punch a hole in it. As far as the two studs on the bottom of the bellhousing (engine side), I find it easier to use a floor jack on the oil pan with a block of wood. When you jack up on the floor pan the engine will tilt back making it easier to line up those studs. When you took our your transmission, your engine tilted forward 3 - 4 inches (go look). Even when you get things close to lined up it can still be a real pain. You will never get the transmission all the way against the engine by hand. You will have to get the flywheel bolts threaded in and use those to pull the transmission against the engine....tighten one bolt a little...then another...then another....etc....just work your way around all of them a little bit at a time -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted February 28, 2012 Share Posted February 28, 2012 yea I had this problem with my trans, what happens if you dent the pan, you'll create a seal on the intake to the filter and starve the oil pump, the guys at the junk yard did that for me and i had a blast trying to figure out what was wrong ! aha but use a peace of plywood the size of the pan to spread out the pressure and dont forget to put thoes two dowls, if not your trans wont be lined up and it will leak fluid out the front seal this is the tranny when its starved [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WTYPJwNMe8&feature=related]torque converter noise, 97 subaru 2.5 - YouTube[/ame] cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted February 29, 2012 I Donated Share Posted February 29, 2012 Didn't you post that problem awhile back and nobody could figure out what was wrong with it? -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 yupp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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