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EJ22T Head gasket replacement thread.


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I installed the turbo intake gasket, installed the coolant lines that attach to the water pump (I had to take the intake manifold off to do so, oops). Installed the alternator, and the AC pump.

 

Removed the old plastic oil separator plate, cleaned the mating surface, and installed the new one. The old plastic separator place came off easily and upon close inspection did not to appear to have been leaking whatsoever.

 

I then installed the torque converter plate and dropped the engine back in the bay. I didn't have any one to help me, but I the engine leveler allowed me to do it quite easily by myself.

 

I did have a bit of a scare when I was slowly lowering the engine to mate it with the transmission and one of the lower mounting bolts hung up on the bell housing. The engine then quickly dropped and pinned my right hand that guiding the engine with beneath it against the frame of the bay, almost crushing it. :eek: I was able to jack up the engine with my free hand and was very relieved when I was still able to move my hand with no visible damage.

 

I greased the alignment pins and installed new transmission bolts, and lower transmission nuts with anti seize compound. The engine slid right on to the pins with no trouble and I bolted it back together.

 

I then connected some hoses, harnesses, etc. I should be done relatively soon.

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No pics today but here is what I did today and some of the mistakes I made along the way:

 

I bought a Spectre air filter (half the price of K&N), new PCV valve, new plug wires, and a lil' packet of dielectric grease.

 

I installed a new exhuast gasket that connects the downpipe to the main exhuast. I hacket it off with a flat bladed screwdriver, and then I sprayed it w/PB Blaster, and hacked it off some more. Eventually it came off. I then installed the downpipe. This was a bad idea since I had to remove the downpipe later to install the turbo.

 

I put the driver's side axle back on and installed the axle pin. The axle pin gave me some trouble at first. The trick to getting it back on without a lot of force is to install tapered edge of the pin into the chamfered hole of the axle and aligning chamfered hole of the spline. Then it went in easily. If your axle pin takes a lot of force or hammering to get it in, you are doing it wrong.

 

I installed the radiator, some ATF coolant lines, and some other shit. I got pissed off a few times. I bolted the strut and brake caliper back in place, etc. Installed the cruise control and throttle body cable, installed the battery.

 

Removed the downpipe to install the turbo and got pissed off. Bolted the turbo on. There is a vacuum line that runs out of the bottom of the turbo that wouldn't slide on easily so I am pissed.

 

I have a few more things to do and maybe I can turn the key tomorrow and see what happens. :spin:

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I wasn't able to start her up today. :(

 

PCV hoses were cracking left and right so I had to make multiple trips to the parts store. Getting the air intake back on the throttle body and turbo was super hard. I got pissed off a few times. My patience is wearing thin.

 

But all I have to do is connect one pcv line to the inlet elbow, install the power steering and AC belt and cover, fill up the radiator, and turn the key. Cross your fingers for me.

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I disconnected the fuel pump and cranked it fo a bit. Then I plugged it back in and she fired right up. I decided to take her down the block and she went kaboom and died and I could hear the turbo spooling down. After a scary moment I realized that the TB intake had popped off, lol.

 

I tightened it back on and she ran again. The cel is on and I am getting the code pulled right now. There is a constant clicking sound that is worrisome too. A coolant line into the turbo is leaking as well.

And she keeps overheating and I keep trying to burp her.

 

The lower radiator hose is staying cold, just like it did before I rebuilt the dang thing. :(

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Here is a video of the engine: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VckpQAChYs0&context=C4a4e96bADvjVQa1PpcFONCT8uNv49EWAsnY5lrm7BtuwiY9VoDt4=]Initial startup of 93 Subaru SS w/EJ22T after rebuild. - YouTube[/ame]

 

Sounds like a slight rod knock. :(

 

What do you guys think?

 

If it is a rod know do I have to scrap the block or can it be fixed. I'm sick of this crap.

 

I wasn't able to get the CEL code pulled. The guys at Poop Boys couldn't figure out how to read it. They said that it wasn't working. The CEL comes on and off.

 

I hope all this hard work on the SS wasn't in vain.

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