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Low Oil Pressure Light and "Ticking"


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SeanC, have you considered buying or pricing out a OEM oil pickup tube instead of the KillerB? I have not followed the issue closely since Unclemat compiled the data and found the trend of failures being centered around the 2006 MY, but it may likely be the case that the current stock of pickup tubes are good. Something to consider in your research.
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I'm going with the stock pickup tube (assuming mine is cracked/broken) anyway. I'm getting rid of the car as soon as I get this fixed - if the motor is junk or not this car is going. Even if I do somehow get lucky and get the car running normally again, its obvious that its on borrowed time...

 

And BTW, what is the deal with some people on this forum? I appreciate the help from those that did, but if you have a dumb comment, keep it out of my thread. thanks.

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And BTW, what is the deal with some people on this forum? I appreciate the help from those that did, but if you have a dumb comment, keep it out of my thread. thanks.

 

This isn't just a forum for car discussion, it's entertainment for people who are bored at work all day. Just another part of a forum.

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I'm going with the stock pickup tube (assuming mine is cracked/broken) anyway. I'm getting rid of the car as soon as I get this fixed - if the motor is junk or not this car is going. Even if I do somehow get lucky and get the car running normally again, its obvious that its on borrowed time...

 

No offense, but if you're planning on offloading the car running but with screwed-up bearings, that's kind of a dick move. You're just offloading your problems onto the next owner, who may or may not have any inkling that there is something wrong. I understand your desire to cut your losses, but if you feel like selling it, just fix the damn thing right before you do, or sell as-is with full disclosure of the problems and take the hit.

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No offense, but if you're planning on offloading the car running but with screwed-up bearings, that's kind of a dick move. You're just offloading your problems onto the next owner, who may or may not have any inkling that there is something wrong. I understand your desire to cut your losses, but if you feel like selling it, just fix the damn thing right before you do, or sell as-is with full disclosure of the problems and take the hit.

 

Write him a check and I'm sure he'd be happy to piss the money away before selling it.

 

[edit] And by "piss the money away before selling it" I mean "fix the problem and not see an appreciable increase in resale value".

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Write him a check and I'm sure he'd be happy to piss the money away before selling it.

 

[edit] And by "piss the money away before selling it" I mean "fix the problem and not see an appreciable increase in resale value".

 

Saying "it has all these new parts" will increase resale value. He certainly won't be able to recoup all the money he puts in, but this is more a question of not being a douche than milking every last cent out of the sale. He'll end up with a nice down payment on another car either way, so why be a douche?

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No I haven't, but don't means it never happen before, Over 188k & still kicking all pumps, motor & turbo. Any metallic shaving in the pan? If not you could reinstall pan. New oil & filter & oil pressure gauge. To see what oil pressure reading you get.

 

Specs. from ALLDATTA

 

 

  1. Start the engine, and measure the oil pressure. Oil pressure (Standard): At 800 rpm 98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or more At 5,000 rpm 294 kPa (3.0 kgf/cm2, 43 psi) or more CAUTION:

 


    • If the oil pressure is out of specification, oil pump, oil filter check and lubrication line.
    • If the oil pressure warning light is turned to ON and oil pressure is within specification, replace the oil pressure switch.

     

NOTE: The specified value is based on an engine oil temperature of 80°C (176°F).

 

 

Oil pump secs.

 

Measure the tip clearance of rotors. If the clearance exceeds the standard value, replace the rotors as a matched set. 0.04-0.14mm (0.0016-0.0055in)

 

Measure the clearance between outer rotor and oil pump rotor housing. If the clearance exceeds the standard value, replace the oil pump case. 0.10-0.175mm (0.0039-0.0069in)

 

Measure the clearance between oil pump inner rotor and pump cover. If the clearance exceeds the standard value, replace the rotor or pump body.

0.02-0.07mm (0.00087-0.0028in)

 

OIL RELIEF VALVE

Check the valve for fitting condition and damage, and the relief valve spring for damage and deterioration. Replace the parts if defective.

Relief valve spring:

Free length 73.7 mm (2.902 inch)

Installed length 54.7 mm (2.154 inch)

Load when installed 93.1 N (9.49 kgf, 20.88 lbs.)

 

OIL PUMP CASE

Check the oil pump case for worn shaft hole, clogged oil passage, worn rotor chamber, cracks and other faults.

 

OIL SEAL

Check the oil seal lips for deformation, hardening, wear, etc. and replace if defective.

 

Hope it helps you.

 

Mike

Mileage:331487 Retired/Sold

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Found a few small fragments of metal on the pickup tube screen...Not sure how much time I want to spend digging if the motor is already toast.

 

What do you think a reasonable price would be to sell the car for with a blown motor? Its in good shape, a few small dings here and there. Interior is in fairly good coniditon also. A mechanic at work offered me 1500...but that seems pretty low. Any used 2.5T seems to be pushing 4K at a junk yard, so everyone interested in fixing it for a profit isn't willing to offer very much. What would you take for it?

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I did this too. 110K on the motor. Picked up a complete used motor for 2500 shipped with three year warranty and 27k miles on it. Paid 900 for the swap and got to keep the core.

 

The subaru dealer near me offered $1000 with the blown motor. They don't go for much when stuff doesn't work.

Sent from my evo

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Not going to fix the car...If I had more time and funds to fix it the motor would already be out, but im moving in a week and a half :cool: I've been offered $2,750 for the car, but think I can get more.
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