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What to do if you break a turbo to downpipe stud


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this happened to me yesterday when I went to stage two and I thought I would share what I did to get it out. I put it in this walk through section because you may be taking out your down pipe to get to something else and isn't necessarily a performance thing.

 

Things you will need:

 

MAPP Gas Torch

 

Vice Grips: you will most likely need more than one. the first pair I used the teeth melted off of it. Try to get ones that have the 5MM hex head in the adjuster so you can really tighten it down to get a good bite.

 

Heat protection for your hands

 

PB Blaster

 

A friend is helpful because once it starts to cool the stud locks back up tight

 

step 1. clamp the vice grips on the stud and tighten it up

 

step 2. get the area cherry red

 

step 3. re tighten the vice grips to really bite into the stud

 

step 4. tap the vice grips to help break it loose. almost like you would hit a wrench when you do an oil change, you will here it pop. you may have to reposition the vise grips a few times

 

step 5. at this point the first pair of vise grips are probably melted, mine were so switch to a different pair and start to work it back and forth. tighten then loosen tighten then loosen. every time you go left go a little further. spray the housing side of the stud with pb blaster now and then to help with working it out. eventually you will get to the point where you can stop the heat and keep working it till its finger tight. then with some hand protection twist it right out

 

and your broken stud is now out of the turbo, let the housing cool completely, check the threads for damage. you can now install a new stud or if your swapping to a new downpipe the bolts that came with mine threaded right into my turbo. I can only assume they wanted me to pull all the studs but i was not about to do that.

 

Hopefully you will never have to use this write up, but if you do just be patient and it will come out

2006 Legacy GT 5EAT Perrin UP, SPT CAI, OBXR CBE, Catless DP, Perrin TMIC, Stage 2 AP tune

Soon after BNR 16G, Infamous Tune

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  • 3 weeks later...

If you're doing this with the turbo on the car, where there are fuel lines and other stuff... fire extinguisher on standby. Might also need to fab up some simple heat shields from sheet metal or ceramic tiles to protect nearby wiring / hoses / other flammable stuff.

 

I'm sure I don't have to have to remind you guys that PB blaster is very flammable so do not think to spray that on once parts are also glowing cherry red!

 

Safety first.

Obligatory '[URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2008-gh8-238668.html?t=238668"]build thread[/URL]' Increased capacity to 2.7 liters, still turbo, but no longer need spark plugs.
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This just happend to me :(

all but one downpipe bolts came off with no prob..

the one that is stuck was a 15mm while the others were 14mm

it started becoming rounded to the point that the socket would not fit

heated it but no luck bought a set of Irwin bolt extractors but there is no 15mm socket with that..the 16 mm one rounded it even worse and shredded the nut.

last resort is to cut off the nut with a dremel..i began cutting it but with limited space and angles to cut im worried that it will cut into the stud.

What to do now? Cut off the stud completely? Help!!!

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Edit:

Got that fool off

needs constant heat from torch and dremel'd out the side of the nut from an angle.

It got to a point where the nut was spinning on the stud but not moving forward so I cut the rest of the nut and pried it off.

The thread from the stud is damaged but hopefully I can thread the new nut onto it.

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  • 4 months later...

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