rdp2n Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 In my bid to switch the transmissions on a 1995 Subaru Legacy, I'm nearly at the point where the documentation where it says: "(3) Remove spring pins and separate front drive shafts from each side of the transmission" 1 -- I've had a look at the areas of the drive shafts adjacent to the transmission and I see something that looks like "spring pins". On one side, though, there is a recess/hole in the collar of the d/s, while on the other there is a narrow opening with what looks like a small nail-like thingie stuck in it. From which of these sides do I drive out the "spring pin"? I wouldn't like to be knocking it the wrong way. 2 -- Do I need a special punch with a long, thin tip? 3 -- I'll need to rotate the d/s for this -- is that best done by turning the engine over at the crankshaft? Thanks, Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 You do need a punch. I don't remember the size, but I bought a bunch of them at Harbor Freight for $5. Put the transmission in neutral, and turn the driveshaft by hand. You can knock it out from either side. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 you need a 3/16 inch punch. any larger and the punch will get stuck, any smaller and it will slip inside of the pin. i knock out the passenger side from above using a long combination 38 socket extensions to reach up above the engine, with the female end over the end of the punch and some duck tape. but if the exhaust is out of the way, it should be easy from below. one item of note: there are an odd number of splines on the axle stubs (27, or 29, or 23 or something) on the trans. this means if you put the axle on 180 degrees the wrong way the holes will not line up. so if you can remember which way the ''chamfer'' on the axle is facing when you drive the pin out and try and mark the axle stub . that way when you go to reinstall you will get it right the first time. maybe a nail sticking through and some duck tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Osei Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 ...above using a long combination 38 socket extensions to reach up above the engine, with the female end over the end of the punch and some duck tape. You can also use a piece of wood about 12-16" long.Drill a hole just a little smaller than the outside of the punch so that it is a tight fit. Makes it easy to reach and no worries about falling out. O. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Wow, I was just going to post a question about this as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 also, just an added bit of info, the "spring pin" is also called a roll pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 Here's a DIY from LoveHorsepower: http://lovehorsepower.com/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=46&Itemid=62 And a simpler way to do it from Youtube posted by briansmobile1: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ValEmBpF6xo&feature=related]How to replace the CV axle in your Subaru - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 I was able to get my axle off basically following the procedure in the youtube video. But I ran into some trouble and it took a lot of the day to just get the castle nut off. It was easy to turn the axles by hand, no need to turn the crank pulley. I bought a nice 3/16 punch like johnegg suggested. It had a shaft that wasn't tapered and was about the length of the pin, about $6. It punched out quite easily. Getting the castle nut was a bit of a problem. First I took off the wheel and tried to break the nut free with a 1/2 breaker bar and 32 mm socket. The wheel just spun. So I put the tire back on and lowered the car. It still wouldn't come off no matter how hard I tried. I even was jumping up and down on the breaker bar. Don't do this! I took a break and read that torquing on the castle nut with the wheel in contact with the ground can ruin your wheel bearing. I hope I didn't ruin mine, but we'll see when I get the SS running again. Instead, put a flat bladed screwdriver in one of the rotor slots and through the back of the caliper to hold the axle in place. Then try your breaker bar. Unfortunately, I had to go and purchase an electric impact gun, which was able to break the nut loose. I had to unlock the castle nut with a punch as well. Also, soak them in a ton of PB blaster. Once you get that off, I undid the bolts that hold the hub to the strut and I was able to pull it loose and have enough room to pull the axle from the transmission. Question, can I re-use the pin or do I have to purchase a new one? The axle is still good, I just had to remove the pin in order to get to a lower transmission bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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