jasejase Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Only if you don't care about screwing the drywall down at the ends... That's where you should be screwing it down. All around the edges, and then every 12-18" on the studs in the middle. If you don't have some screws on that joint, that seam will be more apt to issues down the road Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted February 16, 2016 I Donated Share Posted February 16, 2016 Right. I just don't think it's easy enough to get a screw into a 3/4" wide area (a 2x4 is 1.5" wide, so divide that by 2 and you get 3/4") at the edge of a sheet of drywall without breaking off part of the edge. IMO, you need at least half an inch between the edge of the drywall and the edge of the screw head to ensure structural integrity of the drywall, and the screw head is around 3/8", which means you're right on the edge of the 2x4 and there's no margin for error. Much easier to have a double stud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Nah. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted February 16, 2016 I Donated Share Posted February 16, 2016 Cool story, bro. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Right. I just don't think it's easy enough to get a screw into a 3/4" wide area (a 2x4 is 1.5" wide, so divide that by 2 and you get 3/4") at the edge of a sheet of drywall without breaking off part of the edge. IMO, you need at least half an inch between the edge of the drywall and the edge of the screw head to ensure structural integrity of the drywall, and the screw head is around 3/8", which means you're right on the edge of the 2x4 and there's no margin for error. Much easier to have a double stud. Add to it that a lot of studs you get aren't straight, some are like propellers or bananas. Even a slight bend or twist messes up things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 This guy's site is a little hokey but his explanations and pictures are good... I used these tips a lot. http://www.drywallschool.com/protips.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Cool story, bro. I didn't want to 'word fort' my disagreement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted February 16, 2016 I Donated Share Posted February 16, 2016 I didn't want to 'word fort' my disagreement. If you think that's a word fort, it's a good thing you rarely venture into the PA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 It certainly wasn't a word-fort, but I fear my response would have been Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I hate 220. And I was only messing with 3 wire. So difficult to work with. But, I got the giant black snake moved back into a wall. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 17, 2016 Moderators Share Posted February 17, 2016 Much easier to have a double stud. Not realistic to have double studs all the time (or basically ever unless you are building your own wall) so just get better / used to dealing with single studs. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 i hate 220. And i was only messing with 3 wire. So difficult to work with. But, i got the giant black snake moved back into a wall. 12/3? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted February 17, 2016 I Donated Share Posted February 17, 2016 12/3? For a stove? 50 amp circuit? Probably 8/3. Or at least 10/3. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Yep, for the oven 50 amp breaker. My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 I hate 220. And I was only messing with 3 wire. So difficult to work with. But, I got the giant black snake moved back into a wall. 400V 3-phase with 5-wire (3 phases+Neutral+Ground) FTW! And that's standard for almost all residential built here since the 80's. 220 to 240 is for simple things like lamps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasejase Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 For a stove? 50 amp circuit? Probably 8/3. Or at least 10/3. I didn't catch the stove part... My bad. That big wire is a bitch to run and even tougher to work with within a box. Not fun. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Hell, I hate working with 12/3 running outlet circuits. Pig tails to daisy chain outlets even in deeper boxes suuuuuuuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 400V 3-phase with 5-wire (3 phases+Neutral+Ground) FTW! And that's standard for almost all residential built here since the 80's. 220 to 240 is for simple things like lamps. Well makes me glad I don't live wherever you are. Where is the Chicago of Scandinavia? I didn't catch the stove part... My bad. That big wire is a bitch to run and even tougher to work with within a box. Not fun. Running it was actually the easiest part. I thought it would be the hardest. I was wrong. The wires were connected in the junction box by split bolts + tape. Which looks ghetto, but I guess is alright. Breaking them loose and putting them back on was a bitch. Hell, I hate working with 12/3 running outlet circuits. Pig tails to daisy chain outlets even in deeper boxes suuuuuuuck. Any reason why you didn't just wire to the receptacle? It looks like that's only a problem if you remove that receptacle? I have 6 outlets I need to wire up, 4 of them are using the other receptacles as the splice. I was planning on just sticking with that method. Like, working on my car, I don't know how to do any of this, but I do know how to follow directions / mimic what is there. Which is a problem if what is there wasn't done right. For example, this looks janky. But, I think it's okay. The Oven circuit and the socket circuit are connected to the ground through the copper wire. I assume there is no ground in the black cable wrap (still need to open up that socket), and the ground is carried to that circuit through a metal electrical box (can't see it in this picture, it's up and too the right), and then the ground is carried to the other sockets on the Romex 14/3 cable (I am assuming it's 14 because it's white). http://i.imgur.com/NKzSfL5.jpg My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators BarManBean Posted February 17, 2016 Moderators Share Posted February 17, 2016 My house has some "janky but probably OK" wiring. It drives me nuts though. Most wiring that I've touched so far (bathroom circuit, attic lighting / fan, garage circuit) I've just ended up ripping everything out back to the cleanest available starting point and rewiring everything. Spend a bit more on wiring, but it seriously cleans stuff up. There's really no reason for messy / janky / lazy wiring. "Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>> Not currently in stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Well makes me glad I don't live wherever you are. Where is the Chicago of Scandinavia? Gothenburg. A place where there are shootings now and then in some areas. As long as the vehicle industry is running it's at least not going the same way as Detroit. As for electricals - the upside is that we don't need the same wire area for our appliances so it's not too hard to get the wiring done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 My house has some "janky but probably OK" wiring. It drives me nuts though. Most wiring that I've touched so far (bathroom circuit, attic lighting / fan, garage circuit) I've just ended up ripping everything out back to the cleanest available starting point and rewiring everything. Spend a bit more on wiring, but it seriously cleans stuff up. There's really no reason for messy / janky / lazy wiring. The problem is, I don't know what that is (yet). Lot's of learning still to do. But, I have only owned a house for 5 months... My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baconbits Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Any reason why you didn't just wire to the receptacle? It looks like that's only a problem if you remove that receptacle? I have 6 outlets I need to wire up, 4 of them are using the other receptacles as the splice. I was planning on just sticking with that method. Like, working on my car, I don't know how to do any of this, but I do know how to follow directions / mimic what is there. Which is a problem if what is there wasn't done right. For example, this looks janky. But, I think it's okay. The Oven circuit and the socket circuit are connected to the ground through the copper wire. I assume there is no ground in the black cable wrap (still need to open up that socket), and the ground is carried to that circuit through a metal electrical box (can't see it in this picture, it's up and too the right), and then the ground is carried to the other sockets on the Romex 14/3 cable (I am assuming it's 14 because it's white). http://i.imgur.com/NKzSfL5.jpg That looks jank as hell. The black, cloth covered wire is likely knob-and-tube so be extremely careful touching that. What you see there, the black one, is likely ONLY a hot wire, running ALL of the outlets and light fixtures on that circuit in series. White jacket on the romex doesn't mean anything for size. Most 12ga romex I see is yellow, but I've also seen purple, grey, and white 14ga. The 8 or 10ga 220v running to my dryer is white, as is the 14ga for lighting and 15a service in my garage. One side should have the size printed on it. The copper twisted wire was likely added to create a ground path in order to use grounded outlets on a KnT circuit... my neighbor has done that once or twice in his house but I'm really not a fan of it. I either leave the KnT alone or rewire properly with romex. I also don't think it's proper code to link outlets in parallel using the outlet as a splice versus a pig tail. You can with a GFCI outlet to control everything else on the circuit with the GFCI (one or two in a bathroom for example), but I'm not aware of being able to do that with regular outlets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 That looks jank as hell. I'd call that an understatement. I have seen worse, but not much worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Mack, judging by the dimensional lumber, the hardwood floor, and the wiring, I am guessing that your house was built in the 1950's or 1960's. Get yourself a book on home wiring and read it, all of it, several times over. That's what I did to learn to deal with the wiring in my first home which was built in 1954. I still hired an electrician to do difficult things that I was still not comfortable with. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhitter Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 (edited) I'd call that an understatement. I have seen worse, but not much worse. So, how do I clean it up? Only kitchen sockets are on the knob and tube circuit. Do I use wire nuts to connect the ground / clean up that tangle of grounds? I am planning on adding a GFCI outlet and I guess I can pig tail the other sockets. Basically, I want to make sure that it's safe. or is this "call an electrician". Yep, built in 1955. I have a couple books on wiring, but they seem to be focused on "best case" not "what to do when you open a wall and discover janky wiring" Edited February 17, 2016 by Rhitter My OBXT build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now