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Colorado Component Rebuilders, Inc.


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They charge roughly $3800 with shipping (most likely a core charge is in there also), so I figure the cost is about $3,400. The engine is pretty much complete (less a few items like manifold and sensors). Sure I probably can save a grand doing the rebuild myself, but I'm getting to old to keep wrenching. I'm more curious if anyone has used the mentioned company with great results.
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Whoa! That's an EXTREMELY high price to have your EJ25D rebuilt... For that price, you could buy an EJ257 STi engine AND transmission and have them shipped to your door!

 

Other than the above information, I have never heard of that company. Sorry. Just figured I would toss my 2 cents in as far as the price. That's a lot. :(

My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters!
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I agree that is way to much.

 

Your machine shop will build the whole motor for you and if you don't want to instal it you can have a shop do the labor. In the end you will be less than $3k and have a warranty you can trust.

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My only word of advice is to make sure they have built subaru motors before, not everyone has the knowledge of them. It never hurts to throw in a set of cams or higher compression pistons if you have the money.

 

Unfortunately, I live in the Peoples Republic of Kalifornia. I won't be able to raise compression and cam the engine. :(

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Bah! California FTL. :( Isn't there a way to get around that stuff if you register your car in a different county or something?
My 9.3 cups EJ22 makes me feel like my **** is 2.8 decimeters!
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So then what should one expect as a cost to have the motor rebuilt correctly, and with enough stuff done to consider it mostly a new engine? Are we looking in the 2-3k range? Also, same question for a rebuilt tranny... I'm debating whether to take some of my rebate money and do one or the other because both will need it sometime in the near future. I know shop prices vary.
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Never heard of this company and I've been doing Subarus in Colorado for about 6 years. But I only do performance so I don't know if they have a niche market for non-performance regular stuff.

 

FYI, a brand spanking new turbo shortblock from Subaru is only $1800

(Updated 8/22/17)

2005 Outback FMT

Running on Electrons

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How the hell would they know if you changed anything

 

In the Peoples' Republic of Kalifornia, the smog test consist of a sniffer test and visual test (EGR, Canister, Cats, etc.). :spin:

 

So then what should one expect as a cost to have the motor rebuilt correctly, and with enough stuff done to consider it mostly a new engine? Are we looking in the 2-3k range? Also, same question for a rebuilt tranny... I'm debating whether to take some of my rebate money and do one or the other because both will need it sometime in the near future. I know shop prices vary.

 

My last car (Supra, 6-Cylinder) I rebuilt by myself cost close to $3,000 for the engine. In that amount, I had machine work, valve jobs, new parts, new sensors, new hoses, new pumps, new belts, new pistons, new bearings etc. The only thing I didn't replace was the Cams, connector rods, EGR and Fuel Injectors. The transmission was sent to a shop and rebuilt for $1,000 (one year warranty and they do delievery also!!!). I figure if I add labor for having the engine pulled and install will come close to $1,500. Therefore, I expect the total cost will be $5,500 to $6,000 with labor to have the engine rebuilt and transmission rebuilt. I'm sure I can knock off a few sensors here and there to save about $500, save another $500 (since it's a 4 cylinder) and maybe go with aftermarket hoses to save about another $100. In conclusion, I would probably pay around $5,000 to have GT rebuilt locally (with a tranny rebuilt too!).

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In the Peoples' Republic of Kalifornia, the smog test consist of a sniffer test and visual test (EGR, Canister, Cats, etc.). :spin:

 

You would pass a visual test, unless they pull your motor apart. With a built motor you should still be able to pass a sniff test, as long as you dont delete the emissions stuff. I have heard of people not passing for turbo swaps, but not a build NA motor.

 

To comment on the price...

 

I am in the middle of a rebuild right now and my parts have cost $600.

Rings

Bearing main and rod

8 intake valves

timing belt kit

master gasket kit

head bolts

 

And I paid my machine shop to do the valves, that was $350, but discounted for me.

 

For another $1000 tops I could of paid my machine shop to assemble and hone the block.

 

That is less than $2k for a complete rebuild done properly. I am looking at under $1k to do most of it myself and it is still done properly.

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If I could have my engine rebuilt for 2k or less by someone who I know knows what they are doing, I would do it in a heartbeat. I'm getting tired of nursing this engine. It runs fine, but with 252k on the clock, I know it's a ticking time bomb. At 170k, the head gaskets were replaced and the car was handed down to me. Not knowing at the time about how the replacement gaskets are a permanent fix, when the mechanic told me "drive carefully, because they could go again at any time," and considering that the car was just a lame station wagon, I set myself a mental barrier of 3500 RPM. I almost NEVER exceed that, except in very rare cases, and one Autocross. So in six years, I've mentally trained myself to maintain that barrier, to the point where I can't leave the car in cruise control going up hills because I know it will downshift to 4500. It's like a disease. That and keeping an eye on the temperature gauge. No car will ever be able to overheat on me again because I will notice a 1 degree change in the angle of the needle.

 

The point is, I've since learned that the head gasket fix was clearly a more permanent solution than my mechanic led me to believe. Now, though, the engine has many more miles, has the infamous cold-start piston slap, and doesn't idle smoothly all the time, so I'm STILL babying it knowing that if it blows up, I am thoroughly screwed. I'm getting 5k back from my school on Monday. 4k of that is supposed to go straight to my parents, but I'll bet I could talk myself into 2k, considering $600 would already be spent on a timing job if nothing else. The trouble is, the shop I normally bring my car to here doesn't do rebuilds on Subarus - only new, 5k longblocks, and I don't know who else to trust, and I don't see them doing it for 2k or less... BLAH. I just hate spending $600 on a timing belt job since that's like 1/4 of what an entirely rebuilt engine would cost. I am broke, so it's not like I couldn't use the 2k for other stuff, but I could manage, and being broke just makes me feel even more like that $600 timing job is just a waste of money since the rest of the engine is so old. I've been doing things to the rest of the car so that I can justify putting a new engine in it, since the rest of the car is now in very good shape... but I just don't have the money. Pooper-scoopers.

 

/depressed mood

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You would pass a visual test, unless they pull your motor apart. With a built motor you should still be able to pass a sniff test, as long as you dont delete the emissions stuff. I have heard of people not passing for turbo swaps, but not a build NA motor.

 

I'm sure I might be able to pass the sniffer test if I go with a stand alone, but I plan to keep the GT stock. I'm thinking of running stock class for the car (SCCA), but I'm not sure atm.

 

To comment on the price...

 

I am in the middle of a rebuild right now and my parts have cost $600.

Rings

Bearing main and rod

8 intake valves

timing belt kit

master gasket kit

head bolts

 

And I paid my machine shop to do the valves, that was $350, but discounted for me.

 

For another $1000 tops I could of paid my machine shop to assemble and hone the block.

 

That is less than $2k for a complete rebuild done properly. I am looking at under $1k to do most of it myself and it is still done properly.

 

I will see how much my quote comes too. Hopefully, it comes close to what you say.

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If I could have my engine rebuilt for 2k or less by someone who I know knows what they are doing,

 

I would look for a donor engine now,do all the necessary changes and have it ready to go, whenever the inevitable happens.

 

Since you're babying it anyway, an EJ22 swap would be a good alternative.

 

This will minimize any down time and probably stay well under 2K if you can do any of the work yourself.

 

O.

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