ericem Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 Hey guys, so stupid me not swapping on my winters (driving with pretty slick summers....) was going around a bend and the plowers pushed the snow into the street so going around the bend I bounced off a curb. When it slid I tried giving it some juice and abs no dice just understeering nicely. I tried aiming the wheel into the curb right before the hit, still bounced instead of running over it lol (doing 30-40km/h est) Drives mostly fine other than the car is pulling nicely to the right. Now It appears the strut is the only thing bent. Wheel is still in the middle of the wheel well but cambered + a bit and possibly slightly sideways. Now what are the bets on control arm, strut, and hub? Maybe even control arm mount? Car drives quietly still and only shakes if I turn it a certain position going straight (tires are old and alot of flat spots pos) So the rim appears to be fine. I look somepictures looks like it could be the strut. The boot appears to be sitting slightly sideways maybe the shaft is bent? The shock body itself looks good though. Control arm looked fine. Tie rods looked straight. In order to take action at repairing this at less than $500. If it is just the strut when I take off the wheel tomorrow, I will go to the dealer and get one strut. Otherwise I will be buying front struts, control arms, and hubs if necessary off a 2008-2011 sti. Curious what others found damaged after hitting a curb and advice. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 If you compare both sides. Looks like the passenger strut is sitting farther from the wheel compared to the driver side correct? Than again might be the control arm ? Doesn't have aluminum control arms so id imagine if I hit something on the lower portion of the wheel the majority of the weight would be on the control arm? If it bends it would definitely toe out a bit and give me + camber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 well that is adjustable.. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 it's hard to tell from the pics. if you notice the strut shaft bent, get a new strut and get an alignment, then go from there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted December 28, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted December 28, 2011 expect a wheel bearing in 18-30km (I tried to convert for you). I used to play bumper curbs in the Granite State during my college days. Hit one real bad, didn't bend any struts or control arms. I had to get a chunk of metal filled in on my wheel and an alignment afterwards. 15k miles later the wheel bearing on the wheel that I hit was shot (approx 50k miles on the car). "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 ok so looks like just the lca and either the rim or hub and/or knuckle. Hopefully the crossmember is perfectly fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 just to verify does a 02+ wrx have the same knuckle like the abs sensor will work and all ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 nope Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 what years of cars can i use ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 how about a bearing/hub, for a legacy. 05+ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 i called a bunch of scrap yards. I tell them i need a spindle complete anything 05-09 they argue i can only use 07 gt spindles and that they are completely different. I bought a lca new from the dealer. But im worried the hub and or knuckle is bent. Appears my rim is bent but it may just be the hub. Ugh.... So pissed and stressed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted December 29, 2011 Share Posted December 29, 2011 according to autozone's site, part # for timken front hub/bearing (its one unit) is the same for 05 gt and 07 gt. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Wheel-Bearing-Hub-Assembly-Front/_/N-ah8xq?vehicleIdForService=191121559&_requestid=82368 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted December 29, 2011 Author Share Posted December 29, 2011 so replaced the control arm looks better still slightly cambered positive. Rim was bent. Winters going on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Oh ya after adjusting to full negative camber still appeared the wheel was cambered + just a little bit. So I replaced the struts, still no change! Thinking next to do the knuckle/bearing. Really hoping I don't have to touch the crossmember ah! is it possible the crossmember shifted over maybe? At the same time there are no signs the crossmember is tweaked and the driver side appears normal. Im pretty sure even if I loosen the 4 crossmember bolts it doesn't have any play for adjustment anyway. Just the knuckle is pretty thick so I was doubting it being damaged but you never know hopefully that is the last thing I need to try replacing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 Just saw this and was wondering if you had looked at the LCA stud coming off the chassis. We had a customer come in who had been complaining of the car pulling to the right. The LCA was bent slightly and the stud coming off the chassis was bent. It was obvious he had hit something but all those arms and tie rods can be slightly off and all contribute to the problem. Since you replaced the strut, and control arm the next point of reference is the mounting points. Its hard to say though since we can't see the car here. -Jake http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Thanks for the input! I didnt play close attention to that stud. The wheel appears to be sitting perfectly centered with the wheel well so I was thinking to next pickup the knuckle and bearing. It is really frustrating! The knuckle is thick but than again it could still be possible it slightly tweaked? I will post my results. Usually subaru designs things with impact in mind! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I would think the knuckle is fine as that is a large piece of metal. Ive seen them crack before they bend. However the bearing is a possibility. The easiest way to check is to take the wheel and brakes off and rotate the hub. It should be relatively easy to turn and be smooth. Obviously no play or odd noises. -Jake http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 did you change the ball joint ? Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 It spins fine. Im now starting to hear the bearing howl at certain speeds, but the alignment still isn't perfect either. If I replace the knuckle I might as well replace the bearing anyway. On a friends 2000 impreza rs he smacked a curb front and rear wheels. I had to replace the front crossmember, LCA, struts. The knuckle appeared fine, put it in when the wheel rotated was wobbling nicely. The knuckle still appeared to be fine though! In the rear I replaced the strut, yet the wheel was still cambers + alot. The knuckle appeared fine. I grabbed another one. Found out the knuckle DID indeed bend which is whats giving me some hope that maybe on my car the front knuckle is bent too. On the 4th gens I am thinking the front knuckles aren't as strong since the bearing assmebly is now separate. And yes frank I did. I replaced the whole control arm, got it from the dealer was around $150 came with the 2 bushings and a new balljoint already in place! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank_ster Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 realy ? new bushing and ball joint ? geese thats good .. i need new bushings but jsut changed my ball joint .. after market bushings seem expensive to me .. Now that's thinking out of the boxer! fyi all 05 + legacy's have built in code reader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 Ya, for the control arm complete at $150 it's not even worth the hassle to press the bushings out of the old control arms. The new one is slightly different. They cut the slots in different places, and the bushing was sitting in a slightly different position. I wouldn't be surpriced if it's a better bushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted January 11, 2012 Share Posted January 11, 2012 I realize this is too late, but is there any reason you didn't have the car checked out by a shop ? They could have told you what was wrong. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 11, 2012 Author Share Posted January 11, 2012 because i feel overly qualified to pay someone and cheap. I was more or less looking for someone who experienced a bent knuckle. If you look at the car appears normal but considering both camber bolts are maxed i assumed they would both sit with somewhat the same if everything is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Ok so im back and guess what hub fixed that slight positive camber issue. Going to get a alignment now soo happy car drive soo solid now that it has new struts, control arms haha! Only thing that bothers me the used hub I got had play in the bearing (from a 09 legacy 2.5i low mileage) after I tightened the axle nut there was no play and drives extremely quiet either way would you say that could be normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bbc84 Posted January 14, 2012 Share Posted January 14, 2012 Try alignment right away and they will know if you bent anything. Expect wheel bearing like someone else mentioned coming up soon. I bumped a curb going about 20-30mph. prob 15k miles later wheel bearing went bad on same side. Not sure if related but my power steering started leaking internally and entire rack was replaced a year after the wheel bearing was replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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