Polk Audio DB 6501 any good?

[Dragondima]

Hey, so as the title indicates i'm looking to upgrade the speakers in my car, wanted to know if anyone has experience with these speakers. I'm look for overall performance increase and the Polk Audio DB6501 came in really well reviewed. Has anyone installed with stock headunit in 4th gen Legacy with climate control?

 

Anyone have any suggestions of what to do to get the best out of this system, and has anyone plugged a Sub and Amp to the stock headunit? I'm thinking of doing this.

[FiberglassCustoms]

Good choice, those OEM Tweeters made me Nauseous.

 

Polk? Generally, Warm/Smooth.

 

"Best Out Of This System" is very Broad, please elaborate:

 

Budget?

 

Objective?

 

I take it you plan on retaining the OEM HU?

 

 

 

BTW, I know taste is subjective, but I have a set of DLS UP5i's for sale in the Classifields that would most likely blow those Polks out of the water:)

 

PM me if interested

 

-Tyler

[Dragondima]

I looked at replacing the OEM HU but it looks like too much trouble, finacially spending $1k+ to put a new headunit in there just doesn't seem right haha. So looking at things to improve the stock one, with better speakers. These speakers look like winners, so probably just going to grab them.

 

Any car audio experts that own the Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited willing to spend a little time updating me on what they've learned? I'd appreciate it.

[FiberglassCustoms]

I looked at replacing the OEM HU but it looks like too much trouble, finacially spending $1k+ to put a new headunit in there just doesn't seem right haha. So looking at things to improve the stock one, with better speakers. These speakers look like winners, so probably just going to grab them.

 

Any car audio experts that own the Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited willing to spend a little time updating me on what they've learned? I'd appreciate it.

 

$1k to put in a New H.U.? I am willing to bet you do not have to spend $1k to replace your OEM HU W/ an aftermarket.

 

What exactly do you want to Improve on the OEM HU? EQ, X-Overs, T/A?

 

Those speakers look like winners? Why so, because they have good reviews? Speakers are like Candy each having it's own unique flavor. What may sound good to another, may sound poor to you. I'd advise you to start auditing speakers. Everyone perceives sound differently.

 

Before choosing a set of Speakers, you should ask yourself a few questions.

 

Budget?

 

Parameters: Size, Depth, etc.

 

Amplification? H.U. OR External Amplifier?

 

Location: Do you plan on utilizing your stock locations?

 

Mid(Woofer): You will want to find a Mid(Woofer) W/ A good Off-Axis Response if you are using OEM Mid(woofer) locations. BTW, in a 2 way configuration you generally want to place your Mid(woofer) as far away as possible. This becomes your "Point Source" & is often located in the kicks.

 

Tweeters: Do you plan on using OEM Tweeter locations? Keep in mind that when you buy a "component set," the tweeters supplied will often be designed for a specific mounting location/position as well as the Mid(woofers). Generally, Soft domes=above waist, hard domes=below waist. Some suit better in Sails, High on Dash, A Pillars, etc-It varies. Just another thing to keep in mind:)

 

Any Preference on Cone Material or Tweeter Composition? I will see if I can pull up the thread but each material/composition has it's own unique flavor. As far as Cones go, there's Paper, Poly, Kevlar, ...the list goes on.

 

Where do you live? Keep in Humidity when Choosing Cone Material. Moisture can have a huge Impact on paper Cones.

 

 

Just a few things to keep in mind.

 

Car Audio experts? I am willing to bet my "Car Audio Knowledge" is equal to or greater than most other members on this forum.

 

 

BTW, those DLS I listed for you surpassed a set of $1k Dyn's on this review:

 

http://www.bestcovery.com/best-65-component-speaker-system-overall

 

Yes, taste is subjective but I think we all can tell the difference between a set of Sony's & a set of Dyn's or Scans

[Dbl_D718]

^ x2 to all of the above.

 

There's a lot to consider to get the best out of a system. A lot of your questions can be answered by using the search function here. If you're interested in going with a processor and amp (good idea IMO if you want to spend the money) do some searching here on that too because most of the more popular processors have been installed and reviewed by members here.

[phenryiv1]

I like the Polk dB series, but every listener is different. I put Polks in the rear of my WRX (Rainbow comps up front) because even with aggressive fader settings, the stock rears started to lose sound Q quickly when turned up. Thus, I could turn up the overall volume and my fronts sounded great, but the more efficient but less tonally-accurate OEM rears made things sound lousy in a hurry. Even fading strongly to the front only did so much.

 

With Polk dBs in the rear, my back seat passengers are not pummelled by the crappy OEM sound, and I donKt have to worry that the rears will cloud up or interfere with the higher-quality front setup.

 

For the money, the dB are balanced speakers that sound good with a lot of musical styles.

 

Of all of the speakers that I have made spacers/adapters for, the Polk dB series are the most popular, overall.

[FiberglassCustoms]

I like the Polk dB series, but every listener is different. I put Polks in the rear of my WRX (Rainbow comps up front) because even with aggressive fader settings, the stock rears started to lose sound Q quickly when turned up. Thus, I could turn up the overall volume and my fronts sounded great, but the more efficient but less tonally-accurate OEM rears made things sound lousy in a hurry. Even fading strongly to the front only did so much.

 

With Polk dBs in the rear, my back seat passengers are not pummelled by the crappy OEM sound, and I donKt have to worry that the rears will cloud up or interfere with the higher-quality front setup.

 

For the money, the dB are balanced speakers that sound good with a lot of musical styles.

 

Of all of the speakers that I have made spacers/adapters for, the Polk dB series are the most popular, overall.

 

oooo Rainbow What Line? Kicks? Vanadium? Germanium?

[phenryiv1]

oooo Rainbow What Line? Kicks? Vanadium? Germanium?

 

CSX 265 comps. I needed something with the CAL 20 tweeter, and the SLC series (and higher) all come with the CAL 25. It was too big for where I wanted to put them. Plus I only have 50w going to them (passive) so going with a higher model would not have been a good ROI.

 

I really like them. Of what I have heard in the price range, I really like the sound. I even ran them off of HU power only for a while and was pleased.

[FiberglassCustoms]

CSX 265 comps. I needed something with the CAL 20 tweeter, and the SLC series (and higher) all come with the CAL 25. It was too big for where I wanted to put them. Plus I only have 50w going to them (passive) so going with a higher model would not have been a good ROI.

 

I really like them. Of what I have heard in the price range, I really like the sound. I even ran them off of HU power only for a while and was pleased.

 

Ah, I see. Have not heard of those, only the Germanium's. Love the Rainbow Tweets, as far as Mb goes, the Vanadium's are some of the BEST MB you can get your hands on.

 

Exactly, it's pointless spending the $$$ on "higher-end" Components unless you have an adequate amount of Power as most "Higher-End" Splits are Power Hungry.

 

You buy them off woofersetc? If so, watch out for that company: Huge distributor of Refurbs & as far as I know, one of the few distributors that carry Rainbow

[Dragondima]

$1k to put in a New H.U.? I am willing to bet you do not have to spend $1k to replace your OEM HU W/ an aftermarket.

 

What exactly do you want to Improve on the OEM HU? EQ, X-Overs, T/A?

 

Those speakers look like winners? Why so, because they have good reviews? Speakers are like Candy each having it's own unique flavor. What may sound good to another, may sound poor to you. I'd advise you to start auditing speakers. Everyone perceives sound differently.

 

Before choosing a set of Speakers, you should ask yourself a few questions.

 

Budget?

 

Parameters: Size, Depth, etc.

 

Amplification? H.U. OR External Amplifier?

 

Location: Do you plan on utilizing your stock locations?

 

Mid(Woofer): You will want to find a Mid(Woofer) W/ A good Off-Axis Response if you are using OEM Mid(woofer) locations. BTW, in a 2 way configuration you generally want to place your Mid(woofer) as far away as possible. This becomes your "Point Source" & is often located in the kicks.

 

Tweeters: Do you plan on using OEM Tweeter locations? Keep in mind that when you buy a "component set," the tweeters supplied will often be designed for a specific mounting location/position as well as the Mid(woofers). Generally, Soft domes=above waist, hard domes=below waist. Some suit better in Sails, High on Dash, A Pillars, etc-It varies. Just another thing to keep in mind:)

 

Any Preference on Cone Material or Tweeter Composition? I will see if I can pull up the thread but each material/composition has it's own unique flavor. As far as Cones go, there's Paper, Poly, Kevlar, ...the list goes on.

 

Where do you live? Keep in Humidity when Choosing Cone Material. Moisture can have a huge Impact on paper Cones.

 

 

Just a few things to keep in mind.

 

Car Audio experts? I am willing to bet my "Car Audio Knowledge" is equal to or greater than most other members on this forum.

 

 

BTW, those DLS I listed for you surpassed a set of $1k Dyn's on this review:

 

http://www.bestcovery.com/best-65-component-speaker-system-overall

 

Yes, taste is subjective but I think we all can tell the difference between a set of Sony's & a set of Dyn's or Scans

 

Thank you for the response. The reason i said $1k, is because i have the dual climate control HU, and to put a double din in, i'd have to purchase that aftermarket double din bracket with the climate control, it costs $377 and around $400 shipped. So that plus a good double din headunit would easily total $1k. I'm looking to be able to get aux, better sound quality and definitely better bass. If you're asking what kind of music i like, it's hard to say, but i definitely like music like Guetta, Tiesto, some russian techno, some classic rock, and a lot of guitar music that's more contemporary. So music with decent bass, and good highs. The DB series seems to do it all well. There are definitely going to be speakers that do what i want better, but don't will lack in other depts. So i'd rather have them be a little worst for my needs, but great overall. I'm not really sure what the difference is between having it's own amp and getting power from the HU, so if you can point me in the right direction for that, i'd be grateful. The reviews do matter, and as many might disagree the name matters too, at least to me. It's a comfort level that i'm willing to pay extra for. Companies like polk have built up reputation, so it's an assurance thing.

[FiberglassCustoms]

^ You can Modify/Hack an OEM HU to seperate the HVAC Controls-cheaper:) Also, you do not need a Double Din. Have you ever thought about running a single din up in the Cubbie area above your OEM HU?

 

No, not asking what Genre (type) of music you listen to because one can not go about choosing a set of speakers based on Genre, unless he or she ONLY listens to ONE Genre.

 

What Do you want? Descent Bass output & Good highs? In your application, your component speakers should only cover what they are intended for. Do not "substitute" drivers. Let your Sub(woofer) take care of the "Bass" & let your Mid(woofers) on your component set take care of the (MB)Mid-range. As far as the "highs" go, what do you prefer > Soft OR Hard Dome? (this can vary but,) Soft Tweeters like Silk Domes Generally have a "warm, smooth, less fatiguing Response." As noted earlier, Silk=above waist. Hard Domes tend to play higher & typically play "more accurately." Some listeners do not prefer Hard Domes, often because they are too fatiguing, especially younger listeners. How old are you? I noticed you have not noted on any particular location for your tweeters? Does it matter to you?

 

Each Driver is specifically designed for a certain amount of wattage. MOST aftermarket drivers are Rated well above what your HU can put out, unless you can find a Driver that is Spec'd at 18-22 RMS:) Using an external amplifier is not mandatory, but if you want to get full potential out of your Component Speakers, you should power them w/ the correct amount of wattage they rate for as they were Engineered to handle. As far as what Amplifier to utilize, do you have a budget for an amplifier? Keep in Mind wiring Cost. To keep it simple, find a 2 Channel amplifier to your desired "wattage." the Polks you have listed rate 125 RMS (continuous), so obviously look for an amplifier that will suit. Keep in mind it's always better to Overpower than underpower, & any external amplifier that puts out more than 18-22 RMS will be an upgrade from your OEM HU Power. Don't stress out if you can not find an amplifier that is rated at exactly 125 RMS per channel. Any amplifier that puts out 100-150 should suit fine, give or take a few watts. I had 230 RMS going to each Seperate on my DLS as Most DLS drivers are "Power Hungry," just make sure to adjust your gains correctly. Remember A Gain is not a volume control, it simply matches the voltage coming from your source to the amplifier.

 

You also have the option of heading w/ a 4 Channel amplifier. Most 2 Channel amplifiers you will find do not put out anymore than 75 RMS or so. You may be able to save some $$ if you head w/ a 4 Channel amplifier & bridge it. If I were you I would look into a 4 Channel amplifier. Run your Component Speakers off Channels 1 & 2, and bridge channels 3 & 4 for a single Sub(woofer). You can also do this w/ a 3 Channel amplifier, but often they are more $$$. I understand you do not want "Gansta Bass," but "Sub(woofers) in my opinion are often stereo-typed as just "Booming Woofers." This is not the case & I highly advise you to look into a Sub(woofer) as this will add great depth to your sound stage & give your Sound System.

 

 

The reviews may matter, but it varries too greatly to compare as everyone has a different application & under different circumstances. The "Mainstream Names" may matter to you now, but as your "Audio Knowledge" improves, you will learn it has much more to do w/ how you are applying your Drivers & under what circumstances. Staging a Sound System in the cabin of a vehicle is very difficult, even more difficult as every cabin of each Make/Model is different. I think it's a great idea for you to start out w/ a Universal Component Set, but I will tell you this- Often, someone w/ a more advanced knowledge of Audio can yield greater results at about half the cost by choosing specific Drivers that are specifically designed for the Application/circumstances he or she is applying them to. This is often done by heading "Active" W/ Raw Drivers. I know someone noted on "Active" above in the thread, but I think you should stick to using Passive X-Overs for now as going "Active" can get a bit complicated.

[johnAWD]

I've always been a fan of either Polk or SoundStream seperates. You can't go wrong with either IMNSHO.

[Dragondima]

FiberGlassCustom, really appreciate all your input, but i feel like i'm just not knowledgeable enough to explain what i want in this system. I know i had a Aftermarket HU, Sub, amp and speakers in my last car, that i installed with some guidance from a friend that installed professionally. I'm not intimidated by taking out speakers, wiring, or removing panels, so i'm more than willing to do my own work, but i don't know enough about audio systems to really pick stuff out well. I wanted aftermarket double din for more of a cool "wow" factor. Having integrated gps, aux, and a few other functions would've just been cool to have, but not necessary of course. I do want some kind of aux, and USB charging in the car. Aux is massively important for me, so that's one thing i'm trying to figure out. Not really liking any of the options i'm seeing on here.

[FiberglassCustoms]

Understood,

 

The Polks that you have listed are equipped W/ Silk Domes. When you mount them, keep them above your waist. The will probably suit well in the A-Pillars. However, you should try several locations to see what sounds the best to YOU-Double sided tape works good for this.

 

Sometime, you will understand how tweeters are mounted. I'm assuming you are going to "Flush Mount" them in, but if not: try to avoid mounting our tweeters are there edges present. Edges will create Diffraction (not good). Diffraction occurring 1 ft away from the tweeter is 10x worse than 10 ft away.

 

I usually mount all my Tweeters in Sphere's (teardrop's work better) to try and cope with diffraction as there are no "edges" on a sphere. However, dropping "balls" down from your A-Pillars just isn't practical to the majority of people.

 

When Mounting the Mid(woofers): You may want to look into some Sound Deadener to help w/ the Resonance factor. As far as your "Road Noise," I have already listed a link earlier in the thread to fix that. Keep in mind "Moisture," I am not sure if that is an issue W/ your vehicle, but they do make baffles. Also, when mounting the Mid(woofers), I would recommend you use Rubber Rings to prevent any "buzzing" (resonance). Usually, Mid(woofers) are supplied with these in a Component Set.

 

As far as your Crossovers Go: You can mount them anywhere you want. A lot of people mount them on the insides of the Door Panels. You have the option of either screwing them in or gluing them in. If you are going to Hot Glue them in, keep in mind Temperature. Your doors are going to be opening & closing (slamming) and the Hot Glue will not hold (most likely) W/ "Colder" temperatures. You can mount them anywhere though, it's just a matter of how much wire you are willing to run:)

 

As far as Amplification goes, I would highly recommend you use an External Amplifier.

 

 

http://hackaday.com/2011/06/27/2005-subaru-aux-in-hacking/

 

I really need to look into seeing what kind of Receiver/deck you have, but that works on my 05:)

 

There are a couple STICKIES near the top of the Audio Section on this forum-You may want to do some reading.

 

As listed earlier in this thread, you do have the option of heading w/ an OEM Processor Upgrade. This will give allow you to use your OEM HU & give you all the advantages (& more) of your typical OEM HU. Most of these Modules will allow you either Aux OR USB.

 

BTW, if you hop on diyma.com & create an account, you can pick up lots of goodies for cheap:) There is a HUGE classifield section on that forum.

[phenryiv1]

Ah, I see. Have not heard of those, only the Germanium's. Love the Rainbow Tweets, as far as Mb goes, the Vanadium's are some of the BEST MB you can get your hands on.

 

Exactly, it's pointless spending the $$$ on "higher-end" Components unless you have an adequate amount of Power as most "Higher-End" Splits are Power Hungry.

 

You buy them off woofersetc? If so, watch out for that company: Huge distributor of Refurbs & as far as I know, one of the few distributors that carry Rainbow

 

No, I bought them through a dealer who I've known for about 10 years. I know that he is an authorized brick & mortor dealer for them, though he shipped them to me.

 

I don't want to get him in trouble with Rainbow if he is not supposed to do that, but I am confident that he is authorized and that they are legit 1st quality ones.

 

I have heard mixed reviews on woofersetc, so I stick with what I know.

[FiberglassCustoms]

How can he get in trouble W/ anyone if he buys through any online distributors even if they are not Authorized Dealers? The only ones that would ever get in trouble are the Online Distributors.

 

I know of a few Car Audio Manufacturers that allow Online Distributors to sell their Products as a way to get their Name out to the Market.

 

Mixed Reviews: It varies for everyone. There are "mixed reviews" on crutchfield. Crutchfield is one of the most trusted online distributors you can go through. Overall, woofers isn't a bad site.

[phenryiv1]

I don't know how he would or would not get in trouble. I was just playing it safe.

 

If you frequent caraudio.com or diyma, I believe that he is a vendor on both sites. From what I gather, he is the guy from whom most members on those sites get their Rainbow stuff.

 

And as for reviews, I agree. I was just making the comment that I know that my particular Rainbows are 1st quality gear and not refurb or grey market.

[FiberglassCustoms]

^ He simply can not.

 

I am a member on diyma.com. Is it DAT?

 

Some people are willing to take the risk & to be honest, the risk isn't even that big. What you receive from Online Distributors is usually in Factory Packaging & is legit.

[phenryiv1]

^ He simply can not.

 

I am a member on diyma.com. Is it DAT?

 

Some people are willing to take the risk & to be honest, the risk isn't even that big. What you receive from Online Distributors is usually in Factory Packaging & is legit.

 

It is Don. I can't remember his usernames. I know him by his maxima.org username, and can't remember his handle on ca.com or diyma.

[laff79]

After dampening the doors with some Dynamat and hooking up the components to a Kenwood amp, these speakers sound great (to me, anyway). They especially handle the mids/highs well. Bass will be reserved for a sub that im putting in later. I felt the tweeters were a bit harsh at +3db, so i set the passive xover at 0db.