Kennyfvholla Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I give up... It doesn't have to be. Just put the header on there if you want some rumble. Get a muffler if you want it to be louder, Lulz, what affects on performance did putting a UEL header on your car? I bet you didn't notice anything at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 Just put the header on there if you want some rumble. Get a muffler if you want it to be louder, This. Sorry we made this more complicated than intended, we've been nit picking over little gains/losses. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lulzcow Posted December 21, 2011 Share Posted December 21, 2011 I definitely noticed a performance boost but the headers went on about the same day I switched from the EJ22 ecu to the EJ25D ecu, as well as some other upgrade...I think it was fixing some vacuum or exhaust leak. Not fair to compare. But it definitely sounded much better and accelerated peppier under mid to high throttle. Seemed like it was quicker all around the RPM band Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Was the ECU a direct bolt in? or were the pinouts different? I've been contemplating pulling an RS ECU from the junkyard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lulzcow Posted December 22, 2011 Share Posted December 22, 2011 Direct bolt in. My car is a 97 Legacy L, which had the stock 2.2 ECU for the 97 EJ22 motor. The motor which was swapped in was an 98 block, 96 HLA heads EJ25D. So I know the computers between those two years and motors are directly swappable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 So, to bump this thread. I'm very near making a purchase on a new set of KYB-GR2s and the new mounts, which totals around $600. My friends, however, are saying that I could get a set of coilovers for just slightly more. My issue is that I do NOT want to lower the car. Someone was telling me that I would be able to keep the stock height if I got taller springs for the coilovers. Can someone please explain to me how this works, and whether it is possible? If I'm not lowering the car, is it even worth the added cost, or should I just stick with the KYBs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 PnP on 2.2 heads? LOL! Bullshit. Those heads don't flow all that well period. A PnP has been known on an N/A to not give much. Cams with a proper intake and exhaust give a good gain in power. Especially on the freeway. The girlfriends 92 is getting cams next week. Maybe a PnP on the 2.5 heads. Delta said it wouldn't hurt to do it. But the gains on N/A heads with bolts ons are very VERY minor. And upgrading valves to do what? No need to upgrade valves if you're not boosting or going HC. For the price of 2.2 cams. It's a no brainier (especially since we are in there to replace HG's) maybe on a 2.5 it's kind of a hit and miss because of the cost. A PnP and valves make the build MUCH more expensive and almost not worth it. But if you want that little bit. PnP and MAYBE valves are the way to go. It's an N/A Subaru. Good luck! Go Frakenmotor for low end. To each their own. Stang - Cheap coilovers are not worth it. But JAC has had good luck with his racelands which were under $500. However I don't know how high you can make them go. You'd have to ask him. I would get some GR2's and I think Swift makes springs that wont lower the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Jac's coils are completely maxed out height wise. It's safe to say a majority of cheap coils are not going to give you a ride height anywhere near close to stock. I would stick with the GR2's for sure. Plus, if ride comfort means anything to you, don't get coils. Some adjustable are not so bad when they are set to the softest setting, but it makes every little movement and transition much more noticeable and can be quite jerky at times. What are your personal preferences? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 PnP on 2.2 heads? LOL! Bullshit. Those heads don't flow all that well period. A PnP has been known on an N/A to not give much. Cams with a proper intake and exhaust give a good gain in power. Especially on the freeway. The girlfriends 92 is getting cams next week. Maybe a PnP on the 2.5 heads. Delta said it wouldn't hurt to do it. But the gains on N/A heads with bolts ons are very VERY minor. And upgrading valves to do what? No need to upgrade valves if you're not boosting or going HC. For the price of 2.2 cams. It's a no brainier (especially since we are in there to replace HG's) maybe on a 2.5 it's kind of a hit and miss because of the cost. A PnP and valves make the build MUCH more expensive and almost not worth it. But if you want that little bit. PnP and MAYBE valves are the way to go. It's an N/A Subaru. Good luck! Go Frakenmotor for low end. To each their own. Stang - Cheap coilovers are not worth it. But JAC has had good luck with his racelands which were under $500. However I don't know how high you can make them go. You'd have to ask him. I would get some GR2's and I think Swift makes springs that wont lower the car. My comments are more referenced to forced induction and v8's. I agree with you on the NA comments -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I need to get back into the world of V8's... I need to get another black IROC-Z Camaro to throw my 302 into ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 The GR2s are AWESOME struts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Well, I'm not looking for a street racing machine, obviously, or I'd be lowering the car. My long-term goal for this car is to make it simply a VERY NICE car in every aspect while retaining the utility as an Outback. So, I've been working on upgrading the suspension, while slowly re-working the interior. (Next on the interior list after I finish with the Damplifier is Luxury Liner and a new sound system.) So on the handling front, I wanted to keep the stock height, but a stiffer suspension doesn't really hurt anything since I don't go rock crawling. My line of thought was, I've upgraded the brakes, I've upgraded the wheels, and I've upgraded the swaybars, all of which, together, have made the car 1,000 times better on the handling front. The last thing to do is the struts. The car is already a lot stiffer (and rougher of a ride) than stock, so I'm not sure coilovers would be a smart idea, not to mention, as you said, I'm not entirely sure that cheap coilovers are a good idea. So I was thinking the KYB-GR2 setup would already gain me some stiffness over the current struts, which probably have at LEAST 100k on them - possible way more, and then they are also supposed to be something like 10-20% stiffer than stock, so I gain a little on that end. I can reuse the stock springs, and I'll be buying new OEM strut mounts since I'm sure these are old and decrepit, and that should round out the suspension upgrades on the car and give me a very good handling and predictable, yet still Outback-ish car. So I guess KYB-GR2 is the way to go then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 GR2's are the way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Yeah, I completely agree. Stay with the GR2's for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Ok thanks! Now here's to hoping I get some money soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyposeur Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 My GR2's have 60k and are still good. eekay told me that they can go for 100k. When I drive up a driveway or reverse into one I hear some creaks. Is that some kind of bushing issue? edit: for installing a rear sway do I need 1/2" drive tools or can I just use my 3/8" sockets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Don't see why you NEED 1/2". As long as you can break the old bolts free with whatever you have then go for it. The RalliTek instructions suggested torquing the new bolts to 50 ft-lb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overspool Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 I used my 3/8" ratchet/sockets and an open end wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Alright guys, I'm about ready to make a grand purchase. Since it was my birthday yesterday and I got my financial aid rebate from my school, I've decided to screw "sensibilities" for the day and just spend the tiny bit of that rebate that my parents let me keep on my car. So these are the parts I have lined up. Ignoring the timing belt kit, and the replacement struts for the rear hatch, everything else there has to do with the replacement of my struts. Are there any other parts that you guys think I should order or that I will need when doing this? I have the struts, new mounts, even new bellows, and new front control arm bushings just for the hell of it if they are easy to get to. Are there any other parts that I should expect to have to replace that are directly related to the struts? Thanks for all the help guys! EDIT: One of the things I was hoping to replace were the control arm bushings. However, from what I understand there are two bushings on each control arm - one of which is the transverse link bushing, or something. I've tried to find these parts in the rock auto catalog, but the only ones I found were the ones that are in the bottom of the cart image below. Are they both the same? Would I need to order four to replace them all? Or am I not looking in the right spot. http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7143/6684863355_fba833bd54_b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Here is a discount code for rockauto right now, enter it in the how you hear about us thing, its 5% off. 78297282870385 Also for the struts I bought mine from these guys, and right now they are running a 15% off sale. Smoking deal for these struts shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYB-4-STRUTS-SHOCKS-SUBARU-LEGACY-OUTBACK-95-5-98-/250867514889 -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Sweet, thanks! Still curious about the bushings though! Lol. EDIT: NVM. Got it answered on the Outback forums. YOU GUYS SUCK! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Okay, we all may want to check this out. I have found out how much power there is to be gained by an EL header on a stock engine... The guy in this video swapped out his stock exhaust for a EL setup that included a high flow cat pipe and 1 high flow catalytic converter. And remember the engine in the RS is the same as the one in our cars. Well, your guys cars at least.. He went from 106 horsepower at the wheels, to 120 horsepower at the wheels. He also gained about 15 lb-ft of torque to reach 134. That's just over 20 horsepower at the crank, making a total of 185 horsepower. So, judging by this, I would think the use of a UEL header would not cause any loss of power at the bottom end. I just don't think it'll gain any there, only at the mid range to top end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NickLippert Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Has anyone suggested KYB AGXs? They are a little more than the GR2s but I have heard they are a big improvement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted January 12, 2012 Author Share Posted January 12, 2012 Too late, already ordered, lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Well you could always ask the store to swap and pay difference if they're a lot better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.