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Rear Deck Stealth Sub


Schrei Wolf

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do either of those 8" shallow mounts require cutting on my deck? I got the Harman Kardon system

 

An 8" sub should fit without cutting, but you might need to drill holes for the mounting screws. Some subs fit a little different than others though, so there's always the possibility you could need to make some adjustments but you'll probably be fine.

 

That 13.5" JL you posted would require a new hole cut, and I have no idea if it would fit.

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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^ Agreed.

 

Judging by the Basket, I do not believe the specified JL 13.5" (Shallow Mount) Sub(woofer) would fit your application w/out any modification.

 

The 10" Driver that I applied wasn't difficult at all, just pay attention to the basket & magnet. Everything else can be fixed w/ a baffle:) This may require Modifcation to the rear Deck.

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So anyone planning to do this will want to invest in some B-Quiet for their rear deck. Even with this "weak" setup it rumbles the car pretty well even with the gain between minimum and normal. I'm pretty impressed with the results for the money spent. A word of advice however, when taping in for the amp remote control use the accessory instead of the power antenna. I'll report back with findings after I get some open cell foam in the rear deck and the B-Quiet Extreme on there. Might put some on the trunk lid too.

 

I also put in an illuminated switch to the left of the ashtray for an amp kill switch if I'm not in the mood for it. It's set so it's lit up when the amp in on.

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Deadener is almost a no-brainer for an install like this because you're just mounting the sub to relatively flimsy sheet metal. I'm actually planning on using a 3/4" MDF ring below the shelf to sandwich the sheet metal between the sub and MDF. Along with a good dose of sound deadener hopefully that'll firm things up enough.
MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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So anyone planning to do this will want to invest in some B-Quiet for their rear deck. Even with this "weak" setup it rumbles the car pretty well even with the gain between minimum and normal. I'm pretty impressed with the results for the money spent. A word of advice however, when taping in for the amp remote control use the accessory instead of the power antenna. I'll report back with findings after I get some open cell foam in the rear deck and the B-Quiet Extreme on there. Might put some on the trunk lid too.

 

I also put in an illuminated switch to the left of the ashtray for an amp kill switch if I'm not in the mood for it. It's set so it's lit up when the amp in on.

 

 

That is why I ditched the rear Deck Idea and Fabricated a Specific Fit Enclosure in the rear corner of my trunk:). Sound deadener is some nasty stuff, especially when you have Tan Interior. Also can lower the value of your vehicle for resale *if its noticed*

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I'd like to throw my 2 cents in here, I had a friend who did audio stuff a lot, his own personal car had a really great sound system that was super easy to remove if you wanted to race, or needed more trunk space. He had a smallish amp mounted in his spare tire well and it poked through the board for the wiring where he mounted one of those 'bass tube' subwoofers. It wasn't very big, only an 8" I think, but IMHO 8" is the perfect size for clairty > boom, it really fills everything in very well without getting too loud. I would look for something that can (GENUINELY) hit the 20hz mark.
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I'd like to throw my 2 cents in here, I had a friend who did audio stuff a lot, his own personal car had a really great sound system that was super easy to remove if you wanted to race, or needed more trunk space. He had a smallish amp mounted in his spare tire well and it poked through the board for the wiring where he mounted one of those 'bass tube' subwoofers. It wasn't very big, only an 8" I think, but IMHO 8" is the perfect size for clairty > boom, it really fills everything in very well without getting too loud. I would look for something that can (GENUINELY) hit the 20hz mark.

 

 

Bazooka Tube?

 

I have heard a few in Marine Applications. Not a big fan of mounting amplifier in Spare Tire wells on the Legacy.

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sounds like the perfect way to arc your amp out

 

It's a matter of "cleanliness."

 

Problems With Mounting Amplifier in Spare Tire Well (on LGT)

 

* ^

* "Exposed Wires"

* Ease Of Access To amplifier: To set Gains, X-Overs, etc

Having to Lift up Spare Tire Lid & Removing Spare Tire isn't practical to me

*Exposing amplifier to the Elements

 

It's all up to the OP, but I feel there are better options. I would prefer an "underseat" amplifier instal vs a Spare Tire Amplifier Mount.

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That is why I ditched the rear Deck Idea and Fabricated a Specific Fit Enclosure in the rear corner of my trunk:). Sound deadener is some nasty stuff, especially when you have Tan Interior. Also can lower the value of your vehicle for resale *if its noticed*

 

I agree. Sound deadener is what it is, but that deck really needs to be braced, which could exacerbate the resell issue.

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I agree. Sound deadener is what it is, but that deck really needs to be braced, which could exacerbate the resell issue.

 

Correct, not sure if anyone has came across my post but After Jan. 1st, a few of my Special fitted Enclosures (4Th Gen LGT) will be sold & there should be some reviews up within a week or 2 after the 1st.

 

I don't mean to try and Hi-Jack the OP's thread, but I believe most of your question(s) should have been answered.

 

-Tyler

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  • 2 months later...

Bump because I finished doing my install yesterday. I went with a DLS OA8 and I'm giving it 150 watts RMS, thought it's turned down pretty low right now.

 

As I work on tuning it to the way I like it, anyone that's done this have recommendations on quieting down some rattles? The sub obviously rattles the bejesus out of the rear deck cover and makes a lot of noise. I'm gonna work on the rattles today hopefully, so any suggestions would be helpful.

 

The biggest rattle is the brake light on the rear window. I have a third brake light in my spoiler so I don't mind removing the one on the rear deck, but I don't want to just leave empty mounting holes... Suggestions?

MODS: PW TMIC, Cobb catted DP, HKS cat-back, AVO filter, Bren e-tune; Konis/Epics, Advan RCII
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Adhesive weatherstrips work well (the kind you use on the bottom of doors etc) to dampen between the plastic of the brake light and the glass.

 

You can also look into using foam to dampen between the parcel shelf trim and the metal shelf itself. You will have to "carve" the foam into shape to suit, much like when installing foam in between door trims and door skins.

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