outbackskier Posted December 4, 2011 Share Posted December 4, 2011 Hey I'm new here, but here is my story and its a long one, I recently bought a used 1997 Subaru Legacy Outback (2.5L) with 106,000 miles on Long Island for $2800. It needed new sparks, spark wires, coil pack, and mass air flow sensor and it was running great. Drove it about 3,000 miles (from Long Island to Oneonta (Central New York), down to Kingston NY, Up to Burlington Vermont and back to Oneonta, Oneonta to Burlington and back again, up to Southern Vt and Back) with no problems. On my last trip to Southern VT, I realized my temp gauge was spiked, pulled off to the side of the road and it would not start (Head Gasket). So I got it towed back to a friends house in Oneonta, where I have been working on it, I changed the head gaskets and head bolts and put the heads, cams, valve covers, sparks, coil pack, intake, and timing belt back on (everything you need to start it for a second or so.) Upon doing this I discovered that the heat from the head blowing melted the plastic on the end of my spark wires in the cylinders (got new wires and plugs). Now I attempted to start it, the engine would rotate but not start. I sprayed ether into the intake, still nothing (no backfire no pop). changed to coil pack to a used one, still nothing. Took out a spark wire, put a screw driver in it, touched it to metal while trying to start it, no spark. I took a test light and touched it to the wire that goes into the coil pack, with out the key in the ignition i get two bright lights on the ends and one dim in the middle (also my check engine is on without the key in). So I'm thinking there is a short somewhere. There was one blown fuse (dashboard lights i think) changed it still nothing. I thought maybe the heat from the engine during the blow melted a wire under the intake, checked to see but nothing looks melted. So at this point I do not know what to do. I am hoping that someone on here has encountered the same or a similar problem and give me some advice. I have very little money (saved up all summer for this car and i go to college) so i have to do all of the work by myself. Should I plug a computer in? Would that tell me Something? Please, I am desperate for help. Thank You, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSomething Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Check all the wiring by the head and make sure you didn't melt any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Check all the wiring by the head and make sure you didn't melt any. I will do that tommorow, when i go to work on it, I was looking on another forum and I saw that it could be a damaged cam or crank sensor? or a blown master fuse because i only checked the small fuses not the larger ones could this be possible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted December 5, 2011 I Donated Share Posted December 5, 2011 There are two green box like things in the fuse box under the hood. One of them is a fusible link for the ECU. Make sure its not blown. If its OK, start looking for wiring damage -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 There are two green box like things in the fuse box under the hood. One of them is a fusible link for the ECU. Make sure its not blown. If its OK, start looking for wiring damage I will do that tomorrow as well, but will a bad cam or crank sensor create a short like im getting? Also my Check engine light remains on even when i do not have a key in the ignition??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted December 5, 2011 I Donated Share Posted December 5, 2011 Your engine harness is unplugged. If your check engine light is staying on...then the fusible link I mentioned is fine. Check your wiring harness on the engine side. It sounds like its unplugged. And next time search some. This was just discussed yesterday. SAME problem -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeSomething Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 I will do that tomorrow as well, but will a bad cam or crank sensor create a short like im getting? Also my Check engine light remains on even when i do not have a key in the ignition??? With a broken cam sensor, your car will crank but not turn over. W/ a blown green fuse, you're fuel pump will not come on and you'll get the same symptoms. Let us know how you make out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 Honestly, since your car does not start at all, check all of your grounds and the battery connection as they could be poorly connected. If these are all fine and don't fix your problem, look for a harness connector to be unplugged or any blown fuses or relays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted December 5, 2011 I Donated Share Posted December 5, 2011 With a broken cam sensor, your car will crank but not turn over. W/ a blown green fuse, you're fuel pump will not come on and you'll get the same symptoms. Let us know how you make out. The fusible link I'm talking about controls the ECU. There is another one right next to it that is green as well that controls all of your accessories (lights, windows, locks, heated seats, etc) If that link is blown, your check engine light will not come on at all. your car will turn over but do nothing. Your MIL won't even be on with KOEO -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 With a broken cam sensor, your car will crank but not turn over. W/ a blown green fuse, you're fuel pump will not come on and you'll get the same symptoms. Let us know how you make out. I will do all of this thanks guys for the help. I know that the fuel pump is working so it must not be a green fuse I will check the engine harness and cam sensor tommorow. Is there anyway to check to see if a cam sensor is bad without buying a new one and putting it in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted December 5, 2011 I Donated Share Posted December 5, 2011 Yes. Checking internal resistance with a multi meter....and check signal coming in and out of it. I have no idea what the specs are. Download a copy of the factory service manual and it will be in there. Look in the engine FAQ for a link. And its not a green "fuse". Its a fusible LINK. And the fact that your check engine light is staying on instantly tells you that its NOT the fusible link for the ECU like I had originally suggested. Next time please include all relevant information in your FIRST post so someone trying to help can help you accurately diagnose the problem. Yes, even something as small as a light can completely change whats wrong with it. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 Yes. Checking internal resistance with a multi meter....and check signal coming in and out of it. I have no idea what the specs are. Download a copy of the factory service manual and it will be in there. Look in the engine FAQ for a link I have the Haines manuel for this model so ill look for it in there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennyfvholla Posted December 5, 2011 Share Posted December 5, 2011 The Haynes manual won't tell you what the specs are. At least I've never seen it in there before. However, the FSM will tell you for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted December 5, 2011 I Donated Share Posted December 5, 2011 It won't be in the Haynes manual. If it was, I would say look in a Haynes manual. Get the Factory Service Manual like I had said. That is the only place where you will find it. or you can do it your way and never figure out the problem. Your engine harness is unplugged or damaged. Go ahead and chase ghost in others places if you would like though. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 5, 2011 Author Share Posted December 5, 2011 It won't be in the Haynes manual. If it was, I would say look in a Haynes manual. Get the Factory Service Manual like I had said. That is the only place where you will find it. or you can do it your way and never figure out the problem. Aight I'll let you know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Aight I'll let you know how it goes. Alright so essentially I am and idiot and while going to check the crankshaft sensor I reliezed that the ground wire on the Power Steering unit wasn't connected, this is what was causing the problem. I grounded it and it starts fine. However, i put the whole thing back together changed the oil and filter, put power steering fluid in it, and put antifreeze in it, I went to start it to check the tranny fluid level and now it looks like I'm getting antifreeze squirting out in the vicinity of the coolant temperature sensor, I couldn't see what it was coming out of exactly because it was late and i had to leave but I am going back tomorrow to work on it. (one problem after another) Do you guys have any ideas what this can be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 Now that I think about it I believe the leak is coming out of the Idle Air Control Valve Solinoid, could changing this fix the problem because i believe I have an used one from an old intake I have from the same model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 There are coolant hoses on the throttle body and IACV, so check both of them to make sure you didnt miss a hose clamp or hose. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lulzcow Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 And I was about to suggest a bad ground...had that happen to me too :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 6, 2011 Author Share Posted December 6, 2011 ill check that today thanks guys! hopefully i get to drive it home today Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outbackskier Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 ill check that today thanks guys! hopefully i get to drive it home today It must have been a bad gasket in the IACV solinoid cuz i swapped mine with a used one i had in a left over intake from another 97 outback and it stopped the leak. MY car is fixed drove it back today SO HAPPY thanks guys for all you help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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