iNVAR Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Woah don't snap at me. I skimmed through your posts and got mixed up about what you did between your 10 edits. But now you sort of know how it feels to get annoyed at someone for not SEARCHING. Annoying huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 I'm amazed at the lack of research you did. Something something brain levels something. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caramall2 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 +1, This is what I went with for a flywheel. Lighter than stock, but not as light as other LWFWs. If I had to do it again, I'd go with the WXR single mass unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 Still waiting for it to be done. They had to run and get a gasket from the dealership. I can't wait to see what the difference is! So far, when I called for an update everything looked fine, so they didn't say anything about compatibility issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 There's no gasket that's involved in a clutch+fw replacement job that I know of. Hmm. Hope it comes out okay though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie_sheen Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 be sure to let us know how its holding up in 3 months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 There's no gasket that's involved in a clutch+fw replacement job that I know of. Hmm. Hope it comes out okay though. Drain plug gasket. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 The gaskets were for the axles. Ok, so its really peppy now. Hard to get used to it being so much lighter than the arthritis causing stock one. Ok, well I ran an errand after and it threw a CEL on me. It drives fine, what can I do to resolve this? *Update* I think I found out what it is, apparently its the idle control. I did notice after pushing the clutch back in at lower speeds, the idle went lower than normal causing a near stall. I bet the computer is confused as to why this is happening. I don't have a code reader but have found other posts with same symptoms and diagnosis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 Why did they have to replace axle seals? You can find out what the CEL was for. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 I am not sure, it was their mess up, they replaced them for free. Also my CV boot is ripped again, the same one I replaced this year! Anyway, do you think the computer will stop giving me the CEL after a while? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 No. It gave you the CEL for a reason, and you need to find out why, then fix the problem. Why is your CV ripped again? Is it the passenger side boot? That one is common to failure. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 A CEL from a clutch/flywheel replacement is not normal. BTw, hope you're follownig break in procedures for the clutch. Take it easily on the clutch for a few hundred miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Yes, I am taking it easy. The car is driving normally, the idle has corrected itself and I am going to predict that it will go away in a couple hundred miles. Thats how long it takes a CEL to clear, but I will take it by autozone to see what the code is saying. But I am happy with the way its driving, just taking some getting used to and its a little jerky because its so light, i want to let it out too fast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 ***Update*** Autozone code scan shows P0852 Neutral Switch input circuit high Probable cause: Open or short circuit condition Poor electrical connection Failed neutral switch I am going to guess that the "master tech" forgot to connect something during the re-install. This is just a safety switch that prevents you from starting your car in gear. Not too concerned about it since it will get resolved tomorrow morning. Also FYI forgot to mention earlier, The pressure plate did not fit, but they had a spare one in another kit (also Exedy). They said the holes were not machined properly because they used the same pressure plate from another kit and got it to work. I will see if its the same kit part number tomorrow when I take it in to get the CEL issue taken care of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Wow. Just wow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Wow. Just wow. This. I am at a complete loss for words about this whole thread. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Well if you don't want me to post my experience for everyone's information I guess I can just stop posting. Anyway I will finish up. I went back to the shop, and yes, there was a wire that wasn't plugged in, this is what was causing the CEL, not the flywheel or anything. I believe the pressure plate they pulled from the other kit was KSB03. That is what they had on the shelf, and it was labled WRX. So to recap. FJK1001 does not fit the 2005 Legacy GT. If you want an oem replacement, get the FJK1001FW. KSB03 does work and the WRX 06+ single mass flywheel works great. It works as I was hoping, it engages right away, and without having to rev it much as much as the dual mass. I am breaking it in, so I haven't taken it above 3k rpm when driving around town. I am very happy with the end result, even if it was done in a round about way. Cost just over $1,000 to do, but that is the cost of doing things different. Pep boys does have a package deal where they will do a straight up oem replacement for $689, but it doesn't take into account that the dual mass is recommended for replacement and not resurfacing, so it might have cost nearly the same either way. Lowest dual mass FW I could get was $389. Very happy with the result of the single mass flywheel, the clutch pedal is completely different, much lighter than before. Lessons learned: When I looked up the specs on exedyusa.com, the dimensions were for the clutch disc only. So when they were identical between the FJK1001 and FJK1001FW, I assumed that the pressure plates would also be identical. This was my mistake. I believe the kit that did fit was the KSB03, but they couldn't confirm that to me and that is the only WRX clutch they had on the shelf. On the Exedy site, the KSB03 is for the EJ255 Baja, Saab 9-2X (WRX clone). In searching this website I read several posts about the 06 WRX clutch being the one, but then I found others that said 07+. In the end I got lucky and they didn't charge me for the other pressure plate, they fixed their mistakes and the car runs great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 Okay, but the point is that the OP said he wanted to get a LWFW to reduce the amount he has to rev. He's gonna be in for a rude awakening if he gets one with that expectation. Yeah about that, you are actually incorrect. The clutch engages almost immediately now so I do not have to rev the engine more when pulling through a parking lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 No, I'm not. A LWFW has less rotational intertia. Ask anyone, they'll tell you I'm right. I don't know what you're trying to describe about the parking lot, but there's no way that you would be revving LESS with a LWFW. A LWFW will rev more readily (RPMs will rise quicker and also drop quicker when you blip and release the throttle) but here's the point. Say you want a smooth engagement and on your DMFW you needed to release from about 1500RPM. A LWFW (depending on its weight) would likely raise it above 1500RPM to engage smoothly, OR you would have to engage it slower. This is because the reduced mass of the LWFW transfers less energy to your clutch during engagement. Oh, and you're in the break in period. Get back to me on how things feel several hundreds miles later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 No, I'm not. A LWFW has less rotational intertia. Ask anyone, they'll tell you I'm right. I don't know what you're trying to describe about the parking lot, but there's no way that you would be revving LESS with a LWFW. A LWFW will rev more readily (RPMs will rise quicker and also drop quicker when you blip and release the throttle) but here's the point. Say you want a smooth engagement and on your DMFW you needed to release from about 1500RPM. A LWFW (depending on its weight) would likely raise it above 1500RPM to engage smoothly, OR you would have to engage it slower. This is because the reduced mass of the LWFW transfers less energy to your clutch during engagement. Oh, and you're in the break in period. Get back to me on how things feel several hundreds miles later. I understand what you mean, with all the inertia and that really is moot for the application I am talking about. The point of a lighter flywheel is to rev faster, great. But when I am pulling through a parking lot, with speed bumps and you are constantly on and off the clutch, for example; the oem clutch just doesn't like to go in second at 10-20 mph. I would have to really rev it to keep it going at low speeds or just downshift to 1st. This clutch however, it seems to do fine at that speed in second, and doesn't want to rattle the engine (near stall). I hope that clarifies what I am talking about. It might be one of these situations where you have to be there? heh. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 The SMFW is not a huge difference from the DMFW. I was talking about a LWFW anyway. I have a SMFW too, same as yours. Clutch engagement and NVH was very quiet the first few hundred miles. It's noticeably noiser now and the pedal has firmed up somewhat. No idea if this is due to the ACT clutch I have or the SMFW... Might be a combination of both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 I can already feel the pedal firming up a little bit, which is good because the first few miles it felt like there was no pressure at all. For me its been a huge difference, night and day difference, but lets see in a few hundred miles like we keep saying. All in all this has been a positive experience, I didn't get screwed like I could have lol, I mean I was lucky they had that other clutch kit and that it fit. I know Pep boys has a terrible reputation, but they are the cheapest, and I found an ASE mechanic there that is actually honest. He saved me from unnecessary repairs the CSRs would have had me paying for and is willing to throw on little stuff without them looking either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iNVAR Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Glad it worked out. Do research more before making expensive purchases in the future. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT_Red Posted February 4, 2012 Author Share Posted February 4, 2012 ***Update*** Been a thousand miles and the cluth and flywheel are doing just fine. The only thing I can say is the spring is lighter, car accelerates faster, however you can't cruise in 5th gear going under 40 mph, which I used to do with the dual mass flywheel. You can however, actually take off in 2nd gear, and I can go thorough a parking lot without having to downshift to 1st. Also, its a lot jerkier just due to the the revviness of the engine. I am still trying to perfect a smoother take off or at least be more consistent with it. However, I have no complaints when really taking off from the light, I only burned the cluth once with some spirited driving, all in all I am happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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