2.5GT_dude Posted February 25, 2012 Author Share Posted February 25, 2012 keeping the factory HU will require a LOC if you add an amp and sound quality isn't the best. I'm happy I went the aftermarket HU route. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GT_dude Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7210/6929901911_066279d45a_b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunder240 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Does anyone know: if I install the new Apline 6s (components in the front and coaxial in the rear), keep the stock HU, and install Subaru's amplified Subwoofer (undr the seat)....is that worth the $$$$. I'm thinking that the Subaru sub would work with the stock HU nicely and not cost too much.. Kind-of short answer: if your plan is to get the sub and the speakers and nothing else, you'll definitely get some bass and you'll improve the sound quality a little (not a lot unless you are also buying an amplifier -- the speakers need to be driven to sound their best -- and also without an amp you'll actually lose volume because the speakers are less sensitive than the stock speakers). The sub is nice because it goes under the seat and doesn't eat up the trunk, it's plug-and-play with the stock HU like you said, and also it is self-amplified, meaning you don't need to buy a separate amp for it. It sounds decent, although many others sound cleaner and tighter. But it doesn't have anywhere near the power of, say, an Alpine Type R sub. On the downside, I have no idea of it is compatible with an aftermarket HU if you later decide to go that route, you're throwing money away. Long answer: I'm not sure from your last post whether it not you want to amplify. If not, stop here. If yes, read on Like you, I wanted to amplify the stock HU, add a sub, and replace the speakers. My reasons for wanting to keep my HU were that I was content with the functionality of the stock unit, I liked the stock look, I wanted to keep any upgrades I did stealthy because I park on the street, and finally I just couldn't imagine how swapping the head unit could improve the sound quality. I talked with 3 audio pros and they all told me what your pro told you -- that a head unit upgrade should be the first thing I do, even if I upgraded to a cheap basic single DIN model with none of fancy features. I finally decided to go with their advice, and I'm glad I did. (I went with a model with a removable face plate, and I remove it every night). Your stock head unit is not putting out a clean signal. It's adding distortion, and it is also applying a horrible EQ curve that kills the bass (probably because otherwise hip hop and other bass heavy music would damage the stock speakers). If you keep it, there is no way to clean up the distorted signal, but it is possible to "de-EQ" it using a line output converter that either has an analog EQ capability (Audiocontrol makes several models) or a DSP (like the JL Cleansweep or JBL MS-8). Now, whether or not you want to de-EQ, you need to get a line output converter (like 2.5GT dude said). It's what converts the already -amplified "line" signal that your stock HU puts out into a preamplified signal to input into an aftermarket amp. The thing is, the LOCs that have de-EQ capability cost as much or more than a new aftermaket head unit that puts out a clean signal with far far less distortion! The cheapest Audiocontrol is like $180, and im pretty sure you can get a decent basic Alpine or Clarion HU for like 150. I think a LOC that lacks EQ starts around 50, so you're saving ~100 by keeping the stock HU (although I have to wonder how much more work it is for the installer -- you may end up paying the savings back to him in the labor charge!) There is also one really important feature (if you listen to music from an iphone or ipod) that several aftermarket HUs have, which is a USB port. Playing digital music through a USB connection will massively improve the sound quality over using the stock 3.5mm analog headphone jack. I'll spare you an explanation (unless you want it), but this alone justifies an aftermarket HU in my mind if you care about sound quality. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Almatti Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Like you, I wanted to amplify the stock HU, add a sub, and replace the speakers. My reasons for wanting to keep my HU were that I was content with the functionality of the stock unit, I liked the stock look, I wanted to keep any upgrades I did stealthy because I park on the street, and finally I just couldn't imagine how swapping the head unit could improve the sound quality. I talked with 3 audio pros and they all told me what your pro told you -- that a head unit upgrade should be the first thing I do, even if I upgraded to a cheap basic single DIN model with none of fancy features. I finally decided to go with their advice, and I'm glad I did. (I went with a model with a removable face plate, and I remove it every night). Thunder, now you went and did it !!! LOL....More food for thought. Your reason of keeping the original look are exactly my concerns. I have ordered the Alpine speakers from Amazon awaiting delivery. The single DIN unit I was interested in was JVC KD -R 730BT. That's the one the Pro was pushing and has excellent consumer reviews on Amazon's site. I was not going with a new amplifier (although Best Buy's advise was just that: new speakers and a new 4 Channel Amp), I was going to just replace the speakers and see what the results are in sound enhancement. The Alpines are rated 2-80 Watts per channel - seem to be pretty efficient with those specs. The stock HU puts out about 12 watts per channel, the new JVC HU about 20 watts RMS per channel. I don't want or need mega bass - but looking for a nice clean, unmuddled sound. Maybe I'll go back to the audio pro who negotiated a decent All Cash Price, buy the JVC HU on Amazon too, & have him install the equipment. I know that a lot of these shops prefer to sell you the equipment and install it for one price. They will up the installation charge to install YOUR equipment.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunder240 Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Almatti, I'll be honest and say that I haven't heard the S Type 6 without amplification, so I'm not speaking entirely from personal experience. I have heard them amplified. They are rated at 88 db/W, and I believe that the stock speakers are in the 90s, so without amplification you will lose volume. But I'll buy that they are going to sound better than stock, even without amplification. I'm a big believer in incremental upgrades as long as they don't lock me in. (I mentioned in my previous post that I'd be wary of the Subaru sub because of the possibility that it'd lock me into the stock head unit.) So go with your instincts and do the speakers first. If you get the sound you're looking for, then you can stop their. Otherwise, nothing prevents you from doing the head unit and/or amp later. And you won't have wasted money on parts that you'll end up not using later. If you do this, my advice would be to let Best Buy Geek Squad do the speaker swap. Their install rates are priced by part installed, not per hour, and their guys don't make any more whether you use parts you bought at Best Buy or not. So you aren't going to get hosed by a pro who is annoyed either that you aren't using part he sold you or that you're doing an incremental upgrade and therefore potentially making him do more work. If you're concerned about whether or not they know what they're doing, go back to the mobile audio install center and talk with the guys and get a feel for them. I found one guy that clearly knew what he was doing, was a suby guy himself, and generally gave me a warm fuzzy feeling, and I specifically requested that he do my install. And I brought in parts that I bought on Crutchfield and sonicelectronix. If you decide at a later point that you want to get more power or that you aren't content with the sound quality, you can compare options with/without an aftermarket head unit. I don't know that particular JVC model, but that doesn't mean anything. I went with an Alpine CDA-117 primarily because I liked the extent of its iPhone integration, but also because it can be upgraded to allow you to EQ your car using Audyssey (which you might be familiar with if you have a home theater). Sorry if I opened up another rabbit hole! Either way, let us know what you decide on, and most importantly how it sounds when you're all done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GT_dude Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 So I need an amp. After installing the speakers and compnents the bass has disappeared lol. They are way underpowered. I'll be looking into a compact sub and seperate amp to power speakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 Wow that bites, Are you using the pioneer Head you put in? How many watts RMS is that? What are your crossover points? Any EQ ing? Today I'm working on my Wife's Miata sound sysytem. Going with a simple approach that worked well in my Forester. Alpine 9833 (which happens to have the most RMS power ever for a headunit, so much so they discontinued it for frying from heat buildup). Ultra efficient Focal access line speakers. Getting a sub in there is going to be the challenging part. If you don't want to spend alot of $ consider the under seat sub (Pyle/soundstream) I mentioned at the beginning of this thread, Then you can crossover the Mids up front and still get very decent and believable bass up front . The quest can be very annoying but once you get it right you'll be happy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GT_dude Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 I'm using that Pioneer which unit its 22W x 4 RMS and 50W x 4 peak. Power for the components is 90w RMS and the coaxials are 50w RMS. I was able to tweek it some with the head-unit some by adjusting the EQ, balance to the front, and frequency to 100hz IIRC. Sounds better but not perfect. I'm amp and sub shopping currently Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteyjr Posted March 12, 2012 Share Posted March 12, 2012 You don't have a wagon do you? I may be trying to sell my JL stealthbox for the wagon. Very nice bass with minimal loss of usable space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2.5GT_dude Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 I got a sedan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunder240 Posted March 13, 2012 Share Posted March 13, 2012 Sorry to hear that, but so it goes. The Alpine Type R sub is a beast, and pretty cheap. (I'm running a JL W6, which costs about triple, and I'm not convinced it sounds any better, although it does take up less volume) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skierjoe Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 How do I remove the speaker cover on the subwoofer behind the back passenger seats? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunder240 Posted March 20, 2012 Share Posted March 20, 2012 Depends on the sub -- and you'll probably have to check your manual or call the dealer from whom you bought it and ask. On my enclosed JL W6, there was nothing covering the terminals - they were exposed when I bought the sub. Or are you asking how to remove the grill covering the driver? If that's your question, for some subs you just pull and it pops off, for others the grill screws on, and for others there are some sort of tab holding it in place, so either just futz with it til it comes off or else call the dealer and ask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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