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yes thats how i replaced the timing belt. how could the valves have bent?

 

should i do a comp test to make sure or is it perfectly clear? should i start replacing the valves?

 

and since the belt is already perfect is it possible to leave it on when replacing the valves?

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Valves can bend when you are 5-6 or more teeth off on the timing IIRC, it could be more or less but it is somewhere around there. Compression check will show a badly bent valve, leak down test will show any combustion chamber leak. Belt should be fine, do a visual inspection before you reinstall it.

 

You cannot just replace valve, you have to have a machine shop grind valve seats so the valve seats properly. If you have shim buckets then they will need to set those also.

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do the compression test. it will either be correct or one side will be off. then you will know. if the compression is correct, then the timing is correct. move on to other possible issues.

 

i'm impressed that you posted a video of the timing, but i could not see all the marks clearly. do the compression test.

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do the compression test. it will either be correct or one side will be off. then you will know. if the compression is correct, then the timing is correct. move on to other possible issues.

 

i'm impressed that you posted a video of the timing, but i could not see all the marks clearly. do the compression test.

 

A+ for u lol

I couldn't see the side marks ether...

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How did the comp test go ? What are your results ? What did you determine from the results ? Depending on your results, you may or may not have to ... they should have 180 PSI, the percentage between cylinders should be 15%. Nothing more or less however you wanna say it ..... this question may be really stupid but I have to ask , was the engine running fine before you decided to change your timing belt . Or did it break while driving ? ......
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sorry its kinda dark in my buddies garage and i only have the lights from my gloves. the belt was off by 2 teeth, it was an original belt and it had 117k miles so it was time to change it, it ran crappy as in it took 23seconds to get it to 55mph. i havnt done the comp test i will do it tomorrow morning i have to get a comp tester. along with a DOVM, would of got today but needed my check to clear first. hopefully it clears tonight.
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ok well i did a comp test on the pass side, the batt was kinda dead but i had it jumped by my other car but the comp on the pass side came out as 0. which i tested the comp on my other running car and it had to run for a good 10seconds to reach 150psi so i don't think the comp tester is very good i couldn't test the driver side because the adapter got unscrewed and stayed in the pass side of the block and i cant get it out lol...

 

now i don't know how the valves could have been bent n what not the car was running before i changed the belt(pretty shitty but it ran). n i made sure the belt was perfect when i put it back on.... could turning the crank n cams without the belt on(to position them) do it?

 

also if im gonna replace the valves im gonna have to do the head gasket and shyt what else should i replace while im doin this? and what is the best/fastest way to replace the valves, im looking in the book and it looks relatively easy to do.

 

oh yeah and the right blinker is on constantly, solid lit not blinking.

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quick question, if im gonna replace the valves, spend my spare time(im worth $25 an hr at work) with the price of 7.99 per intake and 10.99 per exhaust and 90 for headgasket kit on ebay, would i be better off spending like 400 bucks all together for these new heads? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Legacy-LH-EJ25-Cylinder-Head-/130590571466?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1997|Make%3ASubaru|Model%3ALegacy&vxp=mtr&hash=item1e67cdfbca
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