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5MT sudden and extreme clutch slip


pao

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I have a 2005 LGT, 5MT transmission. In the past week, I've started to have a lot of trouble putting (stock) power to the wheels, accompanied by the distinctive smell of burning clutch if I get very aggressive (probably > 30% throttle or so). I've had no apparent symptoms of clutch problems up until this point.

 

Full disclosure: this car is my first with a manual transmission, and on top of that it's been autocrossed (D Stock) about a dozen times (so ~70 runs) in the past year. I do slip the clutch quite a bit on autocross launches.

 

By way of demonstration, here's video of attempted acceleration in first and fifth gears, respectively.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqEJTkohmuw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4G-afIlK-o

 

I do not get any noise when I depress the clutch pedal, so it sounds like from reading around here my TOB is fine. Am I dealing with an adjustment problem, or did my clutch plate suddenly give up, or is it something else entirely?

 

(Tips on driving to preserve the clutch when I'm not racing are welcome. Suggestions to replace with a high end clutch are not, as I intend to stay in DS, despite the fact that the G35 coupe will begin kicking my butt next year after it moves in from FS.)

 

UPDATE: It's getting worse. The car is basically undrivable now; I'm negotiating with coworkers to get a ride home this evening. It's very much acting like the clutch won't fully engage.

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For the sake of enhancing the public knowledge, and future searchability, I got this response from a friend off-board:

 

It sounds like you have a blown pressure plate. I would guess one (or more) of the springs (fingers that the TOB pushes on) or the spring retainers has failed and is no longer providing pressure on the clutch plate. If you have access to a borescope, I'd pull the starter and look into the bell housing. You should be able to see if the pressure plate is damaged. Or you could have the clutch and pressure plate replaced (there is probably damage to the clutch disk as well as the pressure plate).

 

I don't think it is a master/slave cylinder problem. Those tend to be "I can't disengage the clutch" problems.

 

I don't have a borescope, so right now this is the leading theory. I've loaded up a cart at Fred Beans with the 07+ clutch setup ready to hit "buy," but if anyone here knows something we don't, please feel free to chime in.

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85k-ish. I do not know if the clutch has been replaced before; CarMax didn't give me any information in that regard, and I haven't touched it. If it hasn't been replaced, it sounds like a popular time for clutch problems based on reading around the forum, but more often it's the TOB that's failed. I haven't searched for pressure plate failures yet (that's next, for my edification).
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chanes are your clutch is roasted.....if you are getting that distinct awful smell under load and not feeling the power, thats a good indication its gone. I would suggest upgrading it especially if you enjoy autox. I knew my cluch was gone when on the highway in 5th and giving 75% throttle sent the RPMS to redline followed by the smell.
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I bet the clutch is worn out. Replacement is required.

 

Your friend probably has good intentions, but doesn't sound like he knows what he is talking about.

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BAC5.2, either way I end up replacing the clutch. It'll all make sense when the car is in several pieces. It was the suddenness of the problem that confused me. I expected to have some time to notice more slipping than normal before complete failure, which is why I'm asking around.

 

Regarding upgrades, I really don't want to get into the ESP money pit (plus, no local competition there), and I'm not messing with the STis and Evos in STU. I'll stick with the OEM clutch.

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If you want a stocker go for it. It's your car and your wallet I totally get that. But with the mileage you indicated and the age of the car more then likely thats what it is. Even if it is a tob your already most of the way there for replacing the clutch it just makes sense to go ahead and replace.
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Oh, I agree with that much, rweezy. I would like to get a (different, non-LGT) car to play with, it's just not gonna happen yet.

 

Thanks everyone! It's a pain, but I'll live. Should be able to do the job next week after I get the parts in. Fortunately I have access to the shop on the Arsenal. I'll need to watch Scruit's video a few dozen times between now and then and print off some vacation pics.

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I've ordered the stock 07+ MY clutch with the SMF.

 

I don't have the TOB noise indicating it's failed. I did consider the TSK3 but other threads here put it into the "preventative" category if you're not already experiencing problems. Since the clutch kit from Fred Beans includes a new TOB I'll be resetting that clock. There's other maintenance items I'll need to spend that on given the car's mileage.

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  • 2 weeks later...

To close this out, earlier this morning I completed the work. Just under 11 hours total. New clutch feels nice. FBP shipped me the wrong Torx (they sent a regular T50, rather than the TP50 I ordered) but air tools saved me there. And one of the mechanics at the shop lined up the friction plate by eye for me...and got it right. If you're going OEM, order the alignment tool early as they may be difficult to track down. No local auto parts store had one.

 

So there was pretty much no material left on the friction plate, and the flywheel and pressure plate were in bad shape too. I took a few photos last night.

 

Thanks again for everyone's input. Scruit's video, while (from my standpoint) optimistic, definitely helped.

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