mattkshook Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Obviously, I am raging... Car is 98 Legacy 2.5GT 5MT. Exhibited overheating issues akin to blown head gasket. Removed engine from vehicle, replaced HG's which were not only obviously bad at #2 and #4 Cylinders, but also not Subaru parts, and covered in shitty sealant. Head Gaskets are now Subaru OEM, head and block mating surfaces nice and clean. Engine is in car now, everything bolted up, and we have issues. Upon first start i noticed some leaking that could either be cam seals - valve cover gaskets, or just the power steering fluid I poured in the reservoir without tightening the bolt (oops). Both types of seals were replaced 6K miles ago (HG's were supposedly new) Valve cover bolts/Cam bolts are tight (torqued to Subaru spec - all head bolts, cam bolts and everything were to subaru spec, although some don't seem to tighten after that) We shut the car off to investigate this leaking.... Now it will not start. And apparently the clutch pedal does not disengage the clutch (full of fluid - and yes everything visible is attatched) Can anyone help, ive been working on this damned thing all day, and I may either have missed something, or this car really just hates me. (P.S. - After working on the car I required a few shots... if this does not make sense, I'll remember to check and edit in the morning. Otherwise, feel free to chime in.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rs25 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Whats leaking, Oil/ Coolant? Did you have the heads decked to insure that they are truely 'flat?' Slammed more than your girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 9, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 9, 2011 What do you mean by it does not start? I know that sounds like a stupid question....but bear with me lol Does it turn over and just not fire up? Do you get nothing when you turn the key? Do you get a click? etc What about your clutch pedal? Is it sticking to the floor, or does it feel normal? Have you tried bleeding the slave cylinder? The leak can be a number of things. Your best bet is to get some brake parts cleaner and clean off whatever has already leaked out. It sounds like its leaking enough for you to actually see it leaking out....as it leaks....so after you clean it let it run and see if you can see where the leak is coming from. If you can't figure out where the leak is coming from, you have a few options. Put UV dye in all your fluids so you can hit the leaks with a UV light and trace them.....or just let a bunch leak out and then check to see what fluid is low. Did you install a new clutch kit before you put the engine back in? did you clip the throw out bearing properly to the clutch fork? Did you use a clutch alignment tool to properly align the clutch? Your post is missing some important information that we can use to help you figure out whats going on. After your hangover settles down let us know :lol::lol: -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 9, 2011 Author Share Posted November 9, 2011 Okay.... By not starting, I mean everything lights up, and everything is working, buy you go to hit the ignition, and the starter doesn't do anything - until you let off the key and it clicks. Also, the gas gauge doesn't work, and all the CEL and warning lights are very dim, and radio display lights up but doesn't work. Before we pulled it in the garage, it did this when it overheated and spewed water over EVERYTHING. Clutch pedal ALMOST feels normal, feels about 3/4 the way it did before everything; no I have not bled the slave cylinder, did not feel it was necessary as it was not messed with. As far as the leak, that was the goal, but the car will not start now. It appears to be coming from the cam seals - or the valve covers as it is on the front/bottom of both heads. All bolts were properly torqued down, and seals/gaskets are less than 6K old. No new clutch, PLENTY of life left in it. Looked about 15K miles old. And it is Exedy. Throwout bearing properly on fork, and alignment tool used. 01rs25: Did not have heads decked: but ran a straightedge along all surfaces after cleaning - seemed perfect. Leak was between cyl 4-water jacket-oil jacket. Non Subaru HG's were used (cheap shitty paper ones with orange sealant) Now OEM - HG's do not appear to be the source of my problems anymore, rather, a ton of other stuff. I work 11-7 today, but will keep tabs on the post. I appreciate every bit of advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 9, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 9, 2011 Is your battery dead? Did you hook up all your grounds properly? That orange stuff on the hold head gaskets is copper sealant spray. Lots of people use it. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 Is your alternator hooked up? The plug on the alternator needs to be pushed in hard, or it will slide out and kill your battery. -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 9, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 9, 2011 With that being said, there is one possible explanation for the funny clutch and low voltage. I recently did a clutch on a WRX, and the clutch pedal was all kinds of funny until I hooked up the batter. I have no idea why....but it was. This further makes me think that you have a ground issue, dead battery, or charging issue -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 10, 2011 Author Share Posted November 10, 2011 Well figured everything out it looks like. No start was ground above starter - Which neither of us remember unbolting - Clutch disengagement was we managed to put it in backwards - feel free to flame on that one.... I still can't believe I did it myself... And leaking oil is the big one..... 6 of the 24 bolts that hold the cam in place (including 4 of the front caps) are completely stripped (thanks friend...) And I believe the valve cover bolts are the same story, at least a few of them. So I've got lots of thread repair to do, already used a heli-coil for the tensioner bolt. Guess I'll use more... Thank you for all the responses, we ended up pulling the bastard back out to start over though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 10, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 10, 2011 lol I had a feeling it was a grounding issue DO NOT run it with stripped cam caps. If that cam jumps out, you will be screwed....as well, you can wrap it. Don't start it again until you fix them -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrakeMK3 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 I would suggest your friend not work on any more cars with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 Okay. Update. The bastard runs starts and drives. But we seem to be back at square one. There is still a pressure buildup it appears, and now it is leaking somewhere under the passenger side of the intake. Still overheats after about a quarter mile, and as soon as pressure is relieved, drops to perfect. This is getting pretty ******* annoying, as we are tired of working on the damn thing. While my legacy on the other hand (knock on wood) hasn't given me trouble (sans the transmission I destroyed with clutch drops). Any Ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 12, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 12, 2011 What do you mean? What pressure buildup? -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 Water and noise coming out from under the intake once the temperature starts to rise (by noise, I honestly could tell whether the boiling water on top of the block, or air. I feel we may need to burp a bit more, but idk yet. Steam rises from the passenger side where the water ends up collecting, appears to be coming from more or less the center of the block. Driver side of block is perfectly dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 12, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 12, 2011 Did you take off the coolant crossover pipe? That may be leaking. Or the upper radiator hose -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 did not remove crossover pipe, upper radiator hose is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 12, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 12, 2011 If its not the hose or the crossover pipe leaking, then that head gasket is externally leaking. Those are really the only things it can be in that area. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 12, 2011 Author Share Posted November 12, 2011 I do not see the head gasket visually leaking though, so maybe the crossover pipe is leaking? What about coolant temp sensor (idk where this is located) Shit is so hard to see with all the shit around there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 12, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 12, 2011 temp sensor is towards the middle under the intake. it could be leaking...it faces straight out towards the radiator -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 did you make sure to bleed all the air from the coolent system? could be getting air pockets and cavitation in your pump. NVM, missed that you are getting leakage. could be the head was warped from overheating as well but of course always start with the easy fixes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share Posted November 13, 2011 Well, took the intake off, and the crossover pipe. Looks like the passenger side of the crossover pipe was leaking, and whatever the thing next to the temp sensor was (single plug) was leaking through the threads, tiny but enough for me to remove and fix it. Upon attempt of removal, it literally snapped and broke threads and all still stuck in intake(spring inside hit me in the face...) What is this tiny thing and how important is it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share Posted November 13, 2011 GUAGE ASSEMBLY THERMO FOR 1990-1999 LEGACY ALL (item B) Is what a parts website says.... So it is in a sense the temp sensor as well? at least what is sent to the guage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 13, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 13, 2011 I called the crossover pipe! lol idk what the little thing that flew out at you was. Are you able to get a pic of it and where it goes on the engine? I'll probably know it if I see it -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattkshook Posted November 13, 2011 Author Share Posted November 13, 2011 I think it is the switch that signals the fans to turn on. Got a replacement from AAP already, now just have to figure out how to get the broken bit out, and there is no way to grab with channel locks or anything... I think i may have to resort to drilling it out in small increments till the metal weakens and break the bastard out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TbirdMan Posted November 13, 2011 Share Posted November 13, 2011 try an easyout? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 13, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 13, 2011 I say easyout or a reverse drill bit -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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