MasAyinde Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 So I'm installing my ACT clutch and WRX flywheel, and I got the transmission onto the two studs at the bottom to guide it in, and it slides in easily except that it hits something about an inch away from where the mating surfaces make contact. I've already checked everything on the outer edge, but I don't see anything there. Has anybody else ever run into this problem while reconnecting the transmission? When it hits, it's close enough that I can't look in to see where it's hitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted November 6, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 6, 2011 When I did my swap, I had problems with the two pins that are about 3-4" from the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 dude that would make perfect sense, it seems like the tranny is pivoting on something right around there. How did you get around that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted November 6, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 6, 2011 dude that would make perfect sense, it seems like the tranny is pivoting on something right around there. How did you get around that? Well, one of the problems is I had a pin in each side of one of the holes (the engine came with 2, and one of the ones from the old engine was still in the bellhousing). I didn't realize it, but I just cranked the bellhousing bolts down, and eventually one of the pins on that side popped out (and I figured out why it was so hard to get it put together... ). Historically, I have found that whenever I have trouble mating an engine and transmission together, the bellhousing bolts are strong enough to get them to snap together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 It is a terrible idea to pull the trans to the engine using the bolts. You can destroy the pilot bearing, or worse, bend the thrust plate in the trans and destroy the clutch disc. Did you use an alignment tool when installing the clutch disc? Lube the pins, and the snout of the input shaft. The trans should mate to the block smoothly and easily. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 6, 2011 Author Share Posted November 6, 2011 I used the alignment tool but I removed it before the PP was completely torqued down. Could that have allowed the disc to slip down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Yep. Leave the tool in until the PP is fully torqued down. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rs25 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 It is a terrible idea to pull the trans to the engine using the bolts. You can destroy the pilot bearing, or worse, bend the thrust plate in the trans and destroy the clutch disc. Did you use an alignment tool when installing the clutch disc? Lube the pins, and the snout of the input shaft. The trans should mate to the block smoothly and easily. I've always used the bolts to squeeze things together. Once you get it up on the studs, put the nuts on and tighten until snug. Then take the LONG starter bolt and use that to sinch the transmission into the engine. If it doesn't go, spin the crank pulley or insert the driveshaft and spin the input shaft until you can get it to line up freely. I'm gonna say that something isn't right with the clutch/PP. And that's where your hold up is. Slammed more than your girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Also make sure that the input shaft is aligned with the motor. We sometimes have to wiggle the crank to get the input shaft to slide in nicely. But I would go back and re-torque the PP with the alignment tool in. We do not take that out until we are about to put the trans back on. -Jake http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg Call directly for your best Whiteline Price! | We also carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MasAyinde Posted November 7, 2011 Author Share Posted November 7, 2011 Yeah I think BAC is right in that the clutch disc may have slipped down a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I've always used the bolts to squeeze things together. Once you get it up on the studs, put the nuts on and tighten until snug. That's playing with fire. You can just as easily get things to fall into place, as you can to destroy something. I've seen it all. Cross-splined clutch discs, destroyed pilot bearings (or pressing the pilot bearing out), a bent thrust plate inside the trans, all kinds of stuff. I've yet to have a situation where the trans didn't just pop right into place. If it seems stuck, forcing it wont solve anything. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted November 7, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 7, 2011 I've yet to have a situation where the trans didn't just pop right into place. If it seems stuck, forcing it wont solve anything. Granted, this is a relatively small sample size, but in the two Subaru engine swaps I've done and 3-4 times I had the transmission off my old Infiniti, the input shaft slipped in with no coaxing maybe once. The other times, I had to use the bolt trick (which didn't break anything any of those times). On my brother's Forester, I put in the bolts and took them out probably about 3 times when I saw the engine was mating up crooked. I think that as long as you're not stupid about forcing it, and notice if it's going on crooked, it shouldn't be an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 In the hundreds of transmissions I've had in and out of various Subarus, the number of times they didn't mate smoothly and easily was... zero. You can pull it together with bolts, sure, but why risk damaging something when it's fairly simple to do it right? [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rs25 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Because crawling under the car and holding the transmsission above your head while you try and align everything is a pain in the ass in of itself. I couldn't imagine trying to wiggle the transmission enough to get the dow pins, and input shaft to line up perfectly all while holding 200lbs above your head. I could see your way working better with a tranny jack but for the backyard mechanic, the bolt method works fine as long as your careful. Hell the input shaft has to be aligned with both the pp,clutch and pilot bearing before you can even begin to thread a bolt into it the engine. Slammed more than your girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted November 7, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 7, 2011 In the hundreds of transmissions I've had in and out of various Subarus, the number of times they didn't mate smoothly and easily was... zero. I am not sure what your trick is, then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rs25 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 Me neither! This is the worst job on Subarus! Holding the tranny above your head while you shake back and forth to get it to line up is the most tedious/ strenous job I've ever done on a car. I usually hurt for a few days afterwards after a clutch job or TOb. Slammed more than your girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I guess just practice and patience. I usually use a lift, now, but when I started I was using jackstands and a floor jack. Just a little wiggle, and a little pressure, and it'll thunk into place [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
01rs25 Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 You make it sound so easy! Slammed more than your girlfriend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted November 7, 2011 Share Posted November 7, 2011 I bet 200 bucks the tin shield that covers the bottom of the bell housing is bent and getting caught on the trans or the subframe. Has happened to me a few times. Take it off and install it once the motor is mated up tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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