travgag Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Hey guys, changing the transmission, I go to put the pins that hold the cv's in and one is one spline off, and i cant seam to pull out the cv to switch it over one, do i have to pull it off the wheel bearing to do so ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted November 4, 2011 I Donated Share Posted November 4, 2011 no. disconnect the steering knuckle from the lower ball joint and tie rod end. then you will be able to pull it out far enough. If the lower ball joint and tie rod gives you problems, you can do it from teh two strut bolts, but then you would need an alignment -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 you have to loosen something on the wheel end to make room to remove and rotate the trans end. i prefer marking yhe top strut to knuckle bolt with a cold chisel and removing it. then i loosen the lower strut to knuckle bolt. this will give you enough slack to remove the trans end when you lean it all the way out and allow you to put the strut back EXACTLY the way it was. this way you do not need an alignment. most folks loosen something on the lower end, but i have had trouble with the ball joint pinch bolt so i don't mess with it. note: the axle stubs in the trans have an odd number of splines so if you are 180 degrees off the pin will never line up. yours could be one spline off, but it could also be 180* off. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Great thanks, the tie rod end and lower ball joint sounds much easier ! well see, and how about oils for the trans, is like a castrol domestic multi-vehicle atf dex lll, good oil ? see the the guy that blew the transmission had just changed the oil and said he put expensive stuff, ( over 100 $), now i drained it all and wondering if i should use that, but scared it might have some metal particles or something in it from the blown trans, but i was planning on changing the filter and atf after a few days of driving and for the trans axle in the front some 80-90 castrol hyproy c, limited slip performance ? and in the rear some synthetic is allowed, so some 75-90 castrol syntec. these were all told by me from the local auto store, are all these going to give me problems or i should go get some legit by the book stuff, from here on the forum, thanks ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnegg Posted November 5, 2011 Share Posted November 5, 2011 castrol is good quality stuff. when you ask what is the best to use you will get as many answers as there are brands out there. so pick which ever one you like or can get a deal on. more important is putting the ATF in the correct fill tube for the trans and the gear oil in the front diff. several auto trans have been destroyed by draining the trans and adding the fluid to the front diff. this leaves the trans empty. ATF goes in the small thin fill tube w/ dipstick driver side at the fire wall under the hearer and AC line. the gear oil goes in the fat short fill tube w/ short stubby dip stick on the passenger side of the trans down low. near the axle i think. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travgag Posted November 5, 2011 Author Share Posted November 5, 2011 Sounds good ! yea you can easily toast your trans if you put them in the wrong place ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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