SpecBamf41 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Just today after some ruff back road driving and slideways i got back on tar and heard so random grinding. got out looking for the worst and found my swag dragging on the ground lol. broke right at the bushing. sadly i dont notice a differences in handleing. so look to replace it and upgrade cost one from subaru probaly cost more anyway. now that rallitek dont sell them what should i pick up? i always wanted the 160 dollar ralli tek one. now what. pics later BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 11, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 11, 2011 Rallitek DOES sell them. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jab83 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 YEah i'm gonna buy one. THey're only 151.90 something now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 http://www.rallitek.com/RalliTEK-Rear-Anti-Sway-Bar-Kit-LegacyOutback-1996-1999/p-4370 this one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 11, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 11, 2011 yes that one. it says 1 available....regardless, I have already spoken with them and they said they will make more when they run out -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jab83 Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 yep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stasis Posted October 11, 2011 Share Posted October 11, 2011 Yeah they look like they make them themselves so more than likely would just make them as needed instead of 'manufacturers runs' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibob6 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 Just today after some ruff back road driving and slideways i got back on tar and heard so random grinding. got out looking for the worst and found my swag dragging on the ground lol. broke right at the bushing. sadly i dont notice a differences in handling pics later HAHAhAHAHAHAHAHAHHA! I did the exact same thing with mine, you must've really been going at it though because I heard my snap. It was dragging on the ground and it broke just outside the bushing. I also didnt notice anymore body roll than I had before... When I finally replace mine I'm going with a Whiteline 22mm adjustable. Is there any particular reason You're all talking about RaliteK? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 12, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 12, 2011 Because its just as good and considerably cheaper -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 And local to my hometown! -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 i could order it tonight. but id rather get my block bored to 100mm and cleaned. how much is the average valve and seat grind? my shop wants 250 BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frogg Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 I broke my front one about 6 months ago, I just removed it because I dont want the spend the money right now. Lots of body lean but with sti springs not too bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegacyLou Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 That sounds cheap, I got a price for $350 per head! That was with shimming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 i could order it tonight. but id rather get my block bored to 100mm and cleaned. I hope by that post you meant you really weren't going to buy them right away... ...because I might have just impulse-purchased a front and rear sway bar... ...u no be mad ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jab83 Posted October 12, 2011 Share Posted October 12, 2011 they will have more up soon. i talked to them and they will make more when people buy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted October 12, 2011 Author Share Posted October 12, 2011 yea i dont give a damn. and wow 350 a head.. im just giving them the heads with the spings and valves. and the head is a hydralic valve lash head so is it a big deal if i put the buckets in different locations? ... if not my other engine has heads i could use. but that is the shim over bucket design.... BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 So I just received my new Rallitek front and rear sways. The rear is adjustable, so I'm wondering what people have found to be a good setup? The front will be an upgrade from the stock 20mm to 22mm, so that should be a nice boost. The rear will be going from stock 18mm to 22mm on the lowest setting, so I'm thinking that alone should probably be enough to make a marked difference AND make a slight impact on the stock understeering tendency. (Considering the new mounts and rear endlinks should stiffen things up too.) What have others found to be a good setup? I know I can get under the car and adjust it but I'm curious what others have found works well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 22, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 22, 2011 There isn't really a "one size fits all" answer for this. Start out on the 22mm setting...and see how it feels for a few days...then adjust it stiffer and drive for a few more days, then do a final adjustment to 25mm or w/e the highest setting is... You won't really know whats best until you try out each one. And the answers you get about this will probably vary quite a bit. -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stang70Fastback Posted October 22, 2011 Share Posted October 22, 2011 Ok. One other question, can these things be removed while the suspension is loaded? Meaning can I just drive the car up on ramps and do the swap? Also, is it possible to get the front sway bar out without dismantling anything? The rear looks like there's enough room to probably figure something out but there's a lot going on in the front end... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted October 22, 2011 Author Share Posted October 22, 2011 the rear is easy. the front i have never looked at. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated broknindarkagain Posted October 23, 2011 I Donated Share Posted October 23, 2011 I've always done them with the suspension unloaded -broknindarkagain My Current Project - Click Here COME AND TAKE IT "The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 specail...^ BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baddog Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 Nice.....So where is this picture? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subikid90 Posted October 23, 2011 Share Posted October 23, 2011 That sounds cheap, I got a price for $350 per head! That was with shimming. The machine shop I worked in and do my work at charges $600-800 depending on parts. That includes the whole ten yards -Subikid90 1997 Legacy GT 5spd & EJ251 w/EJ25D heads ~10.5CR 1998 Legacy GT Limited waiting for EJ22T hybrid swap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecBamf41 Posted October 23, 2011 Author Share Posted October 23, 2011 Nice.....So where is this picture? my flip phone wont send emails anymore. this has been the only way i could get pics. i will have my galexy tab soon so i can if your just dieing to see it. BNR18g on 93oct Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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