Ohitsspencer Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 It would start up, but it struggled, and then the revs would just slowly drop, so I reversed out of my drive way and put it in neutral, and then it died. Again, I tried this, almost immediately after I uninstalled it. I will try again as soon as I am home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doster82 Posted September 20, 2011 Share Posted September 20, 2011 sounds like a timing issue to me, as well. However, without listening to the motor, it's difficult to tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 I will post a video of the motor running tonight, if it continues after the uninstall of the AP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 So, I uninstalled the AP, turned car off, turned car on, waited 3 minutes to be safe, turned car on, let it idle for 3 more minutes, then set off. Ran like a champ . So, I think the AP was my issue, it does feel a little bit jumpy, but I think that's just the boost building. I am going to check my oil levels to see where I am at, and I will update after that. Just waiting for the engine to cool. Thanks for all your help guys! Glad to have fellow LGT support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 20, 2011 Author Share Posted September 20, 2011 I also plan on getting the timing belt changed out ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighaus90 Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 I don't necessarily think you need to rush changing the timing belt its more of a tuning issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 It almost felt like it did it again this morning, but I think that was just me being paranoid. The AP is still uninstalled, so I will test again this afternoon, and I really hope it doesn't happen. I went on a cruise with my buddy and is wrx yesterday, and I didn't have any issues with pulls or anything, so we'll see. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighaus90 Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 I would reinstall your ap and reflash stg 2 cause its gonna be harder on your car with out any tune. Just reinstall it and drive it easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadowImg Posted September 21, 2011 Share Posted September 21, 2011 Unless you left something off your mod list, that OTS Stage 2 should work. You should contact Cobb, they'll probably have you datalog it. I would imagine they can fix this for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 I will do that, if the issue isn't happening still. I'll update again around 4:30. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 21, 2011 Author Share Posted September 21, 2011 Ok, so it happens still, but at a different time. When it happens is if I'm in 4th gear going about 40-50 and floor it, it will jump to about 3200 and stall, but not for as long as it did before. Could it be my timing belt? That's the only way I could get it to happen, with the AP, it was very easy to make it happen, without, it's pretty difficult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighaus90 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 No its not your timing belt its the cobb map and probably heat soak. call cobb support and they will have you log your ap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 How is it the map when I don't even have it installed any more? I will get my heat shield installed Friday to see if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighaus90 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 its hard to explain. The heatsoak causes extra timing to be pulled being on a stg 2 map with more air makes it happen worse with the ap and stock it can happen just usually not as bad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S402 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 its can cause knock which causes timing to be pulled Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithk831 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 It's not your timing belt, and likely not your clutch. Timing belt service interval is something like 105k, so you're well below that threshold. I also don't think heat soak is causing this as you'd have to be overheating like crazy to get knock bad enough to cause this. It could be a tuning issue, but my guess is there's an internal mechanical issue (injector, low compression, etc). I'd say take it to a reputable shop and see what they think, and do it soon. If it is a mechanical issue, you'd want to get it fixed before any major damage occurs. Does it feel more like the clutch slips, or that it's engaged and just sort of stays at that RPM for a minute? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 I'm definitely not over heating. And the Cobb is uninstalled, so it is not running any maps. I just tested a little more and it's just jumpy, and only during pulls, it's like it hesitates but it's not boost lag. it can't be my clutch because that thing is solid, and I've never had trouble grabbing a gear, and I have never even grinded a gear. Any suggestions of where I could take it to get it checked out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Tomorrow, I will try to get better quality video of what's now happening, and I will also film the motor running, for you guys to determine if something sounds off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithk831 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 The hesitation you're describing could be knock. You sure you didn't accidentally put in regular instead of premium? See if someone with a tactrix cable can get a learning view of your car. That will tell us a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Never done that, because before this I had an SRT 4 and my dad thought it would be nice to give me a little gas, and he put regular fuel in, and you could feel the difference. I always make sure I'm putting in premium. I don't personally know anyone with one of those cables. Any clue where I could find someone who has one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighaus90 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 keith the reason I don't think its mechanical is because derkle13 and myself on here had the same issue where it would just hold the revs but continue accellerating we both had learning views done and you could see timing being pulled and the chance of all 3 of us having mechanical issues are very slim. I also noticed the revs didn't hold during winter which is why it leads me to believe its heat soak. Also spencer doesn't have a heatshield and while derkle13 took his off and my car never came with one which could help explain the extra heat. As far as the hesitation on stock map this is a ecu problem that has been discussed widely on the forums some say a reflash fixes it from the dealer or a tune. My hesitation went away as soon as I went stg 2 but then I had the rev issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Yeah I never had hesitation with stage 2, just had the rev stalling. I will get my heat shield installed in the morning, and I will get a tune done by TrueTune next month. Does anyone know what the thread is for the bolts to install the heat shield. I actually purchased the shield from keith, but never received the hardware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ohitsspencer Posted September 22, 2011 Author Share Posted September 22, 2011 Bighaus90, how did you get rid of your stalling for your stage 2 map? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighaus90 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 I never got rid of it on my cobb stg 2 map I put a 2010 sti top mount on my car and other mods and a tune from true tune and it stopped doing it. I can still get it though sometimes if it is really hot outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithk831 Posted September 22, 2011 Share Posted September 22, 2011 keith the reason I don't think its mechanical is because derkle13 and myself on here had the same issue where it would just hold the revs but continue accellerating we both had learning views done and you could see timing being pulled and the chance of all 3 of us having mechanical issues are very slim. I also noticed the revs didn't hold during winter which is why it leads me to believe its heat soak. Also spencer doesn't have a heatshield and while derkle13 took his off and my car never came with one which could help explain the extra heat. As far as the hesitation on stock map this is a ecu problem that has been discussed widely on the forums some say a reflash fixes it from the dealer or a tune. My hesitation went away as soon as I went stg 2 but then I had the rev issue. Yeah, the RPM "studder"/hesitation is prominent with the stock map. Cobb Stage 2 helped remove it, but not completely. Infamous tune made things worse, and Logan and I eventually figured out it was low timing (low in the base timing table- right in the center). Honestly though, in order for you to notice anything other than just a lack in power, you'd have to have your IAM down to below .375. I once saw an IAM at zero and that was causing weird behavior...not just a lack in power. With regards to the learning view, the two things that really would affect the feel of the car (idle, hesitation, etc) would be the MAF scaling and the timing table. If the learning view is clean, you likely have another issue at hand. I'm not saying it's solely one cause, but unless your tune insanely sucks, you have some other problem you need to fix. And Cobb's map doesn't insanely suck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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